Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Neo Turbo

Forged

By Forged,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Its been modified. Not factory.

If its using replacement blades, $500.

Send it to a turbo expert, get them to have a look at it though if you ask me.

Do you if its been hi-flowed or not? As that would be worth more, and i would be keeping it :O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158806-r34-neo-turbo/#findComment-2948688
Share on other sites
Forged Experienced

Forged

Posted
  • Author
Posted
this has been talked about a couple of times and some late series r34s suposedly have steel comp wheels std from factory

but the turbine wheels are still ceramic on all of them so even if this is the case its totally useless

yes ceramic turbine wheel, but my gtt is a 98 model so maybe the turbo is from a later model.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158806-r34-neo-turbo/#findComment-2948727
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

yeah the compressor isnt as important. whats on the rear matters.

im guessing ceramic which makes its okish for mild applications. probably worth maybe $600 ?

its the same rear as the vg30 (well i think it is anyhoo) so it could be worth a touch over $500

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158806-r34-neo-turbo/#findComment-2949030
Share on other sites
MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted (edited)

nah, that looks like a standard turbo to me. Ceramic means stock turbo end of story. It is the exhaust wheel that normally goes. People would not get the turbo rebuilt and get front changed and not the rear. You cannot take the rear wheel off without it cracking. There is no way you could change the front wheel. That is NOT highflowed. If you compare it to a slide turbo, you'll notice the slide turbo has the snout bored out heaps.

There's a lot of bs being thrown around in this thread.

Most likely it could even be an r33 sI turbo, in which case it's worth jack shit.

If it's an r33 turbo, it's worth 250-300.

If it's an r34 turbo, it's worth - 350. One just sold for 350 with 70 000 ks on it.

Edited by MANWHORE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158806-r34-neo-turbo/#findComment-2949041
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • djr81
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By djr81 · Posted

      New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...