Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did mine a couple years ago, just purchase your synchro rings(baulk rings) for all gears or just second, third and fourth if youre on a tight budget (since these are the common gears that go). You will probably be better off doing main bearing and front and rear seals too.

Anyhow parts will probably cost you 300-500 depending on what you get. Then take it to gearbox shop and expect shitloads for labour (they are not easy to pull apart whatsoever). But on the upside, as good as new box for maybe a touch more than the second hand one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158932-5-speed-rebuild/#findComment-2955276
Share on other sites

Here's one I destroyed earlier!!!

Got into first, then second but third went BANG, then it sounded like I was draging a tailshaft under the car.

Got a s/h one and it's been good so far.......

Pull it apart in my carport, just need to buy long gear pullers and a ppg gearset or os gikken!

the insides: enjoy

post-12712-1173104271.jpgpost-12712-1173104328.jpgpost-12712-1173104394.jpg

post-12712-1173104480.jpgpost-12712-1173104559.jpgpost-12712-1173104628.jpg

This happened while I was in Bundaberg.

Changed gbox in front yard.

Pulled it apart in Syd.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158932-5-speed-rebuild/#findComment-2955799
Share on other sites

LOL, I was waiting for someone to bring that up!!

I'll never use that oil again either.

After they put that in it was making a nice bearing whine noise that wasn't there before.

I now use castrol synthetic gear oil and castrol synthetic LSD oil, diff works like new!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158932-5-speed-rebuild/#findComment-2956732
Share on other sites

well i had that decision when my diff went whiny whiny whiny, and i figured its cheaper and keeps my mind at ease KNOWING that your gb has just got all new seals and synchros, and that its gonna hold, and sometimes you might be lucky enough to get warranty. Rather than having a 2nd hand gb which you are unsure about. go the rebuild alot safer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158932-5-speed-rebuild/#findComment-2957651
Share on other sites

Where do I start!!!

Most are listed in the manual, need alot of drifts supposedly, to put bearings in etc.

spanners

extensions

Socket set

deepsocket set

breaker bar

pin punch set

decent circlip plier set

pitman arm puller

gear puller+ extendable one

Slide hammer to pull out shift rod bearings.(work had one)

rubber mallot

big hammer

A vice to mount the bloody thing on (don't have one yet)!

container and bag to put all the bits in.

clean parts in kerosene.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158932-5-speed-rebuild/#findComment-2959240
Share on other sites

Pm dan from elite racing . i think his username is 3lit3_32

good bloke to deal with. and wont stuff you around.

my opinion is. if your not confident in doing it yourself. let him do it.

i was about 75% confident in being able to do it. but at the end of the day. i have more confidence in him and his warranty on workmanship :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158932-5-speed-rebuild/#findComment-2961483
Share on other sites

a pat on the back to the first person to guess what oil GTRsean was running

i know...do you

Hint: some times called. Smurfs Blood

:ninja:

RellikZephyr

Not to get tooo off topic, but heres a good one of an old house mates gearbox when the smurfs blood tried to escape. Only problem was that it was a straight cut box that had been in for 2 weeks or so.

http://www.clubpoint.net/bluebird/gb/Img_2844.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158932-5-speed-rebuild/#findComment-2962250
Share on other sites

Not to get tooo off topic, but heres a good one of an old house mates gearbox when the smurfs blood tried to escape. Only problem was that it was a straight cut box that had been in for 2 weeks or so.

http://www.clubpoint.net/bluebird/gb/Img_2844.jpg

Nasty!!

Smurfs blood will always look for it's natural environment. It is futile to try and keep it contained in gboxes for too long.

Pitman arm puller is what is used to remove ball joints.

basically two or three adjustable arms with claws on the end and a threaded center bolt with tip.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158932-5-speed-rebuild/#findComment-2962366
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hard to say, just pop the rocker covers off and have a look if you think it's cammed. You probably need to replace the valve cover gasket/half moons anyways.
    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
×
×
  • Create New...