Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok dudes, im gettin ready for my nex step in preformance. I want a full drag setup, and im building a new block with a HKS 2.8 stroker etc. Im putting in a autronic ecu with a HKS T51 SPL turbocharger wich i think can make the 1000HP with supporting mods. ill run 3 bosch 044 pumps with a 2l swirl system and a tomei stnd GTR pump for lifting. 1000cc injectors with a FPR. my question is what cams i should use for this setup. its going to be a outrageous drag build. ill be using the PPG 6spd gearbox, and a Exedy tripple plate clutch. the cams must be for top preformance, they need to hold the engine till 11k rpm. and also what kind of ignition setup do i need, cuz now i am running splitfires with a HKS ign amplifier. do i need better coils. the head ill be putting on the engine will have 1mm oversize valves, a port polish job and all the valve train needed to support the engine. when i am talking about cams i mean duration and lift. if you guys can give me some input it would be geatly appreciated, cuz i dont have anyone in my country that can help me with advice on my sky GTR.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159023-the-900hp-question/
Share on other sites

but i would use this set-up with the 1mm oversize valves

Hey Paul what sort of hp will stock sized valves create a restriction? do u use 1mm oversized on inlet and exhuast when u upgrade? how much are the oversized valves exactly and how much machine work is required for these to fit in the place of stock valves?

just enquiring as i run the setup i mentioned

Edited by CruiseLiner
Hey Paul what sort of hp will stock sized valves create a restriction? do u use 1mm oversized on inlet and exhuast when u upgrade? how much are the oversized valves exactly and how much machine work is required for these to fit in the place of stock valves?

just enquiring as i run the setup i mentioned

We have noticed a significant improvement in running oversized valves with this sized turbine and camshaft selection. Both in overall power and engine response.

i can get you a definate price on valves for you tomm. if you like, they are not as expensive as you may think

clearly recutting of the valve seats is required and guide clearance checked

We have noticed a significant improvement in running oversized valves with this sized turbine and camshaft selection. Both in overall power and engine response.

i can get you a definate price on valves for you tomm. if you like, they are not as expensive as you may think

clearly recutting of the valve seats is required and guide clearance checked

Didn't you post a while back that you used poncams? Oversized cams with poncams is a overkill imo

or when you say we are you including yourself in the experience CRD has?

Didn't you post a while back that you used poncams? Oversized cams with poncams is a overkill imo

or when you say we are you including yourself in the experience CRD has?

i haven't used a poncam in nearly 12 months, and yes oversized valves would be overkill for that application.

yes as major sponsor of our racecar CRD includes us in the development and research of OUR engines as well as using/sharing research gained from other cars.

i haven't used a poncam in nearly 12 months, and yes oversized valves would be overkill for that application.

yes as major sponsor of our racecar CRD includes us in the development and research of OUR engines as well as using/sharing research on other cars.

Oh shlt sorry about that I thought you built your own engines and hadn't raced for nearly 12 months, whats the latest times your running?

Edited by Shibby
Oh shlt sorry about that I thought you built your own engines and hadn't raced for near 12 months, whats the latest times your running?

yes you are correct, until recently i had engineered the car all on my own...engine building, modification, research and development. With CRD tuning the combinations i put together (with great success too i might add).

The last 12 months has seen our relationship with CRD expand to the point where they have included their knowledge in our engineering decisions, including engine builds and development, they have just completed building our next engine in house at CRD. Currently we are attempting to get our car finalised with new combo trackside next weekend. But due to component delivery delays we will be aiming for the WSID bracket meet on the 17th. If you are interested keep in touch via pm and ill let you know what day we are running, so you can come and check out the new set-up.

anyway im here trying to assist Faid with his set-up so.....

back on topic please.

Thanks for the input guys. i think ill go the Jun 280 with 11.35 mm lift way. the head is being assembled by AEBS california, i only have to mail them with the specs and they set it up for me. eeumh another question if i run 10.49 with 600-625 awhp, what kinda times am i looking at with 900hp, full slick tires and a PPG gearbox. If its not to much of a hassle, you guys are invited to come to the race weekend (6-8 april) and watch compettitors from all over the carribean compete. Im defending my national title, can you believe that 10.49s is the best time we've clocked in this country

if you want to do the turbo setup right, dont use an off-the-shelf undivided T51R.

make sure the turbine inlet and turbo manifold is divided/twinscroll and try to use two wastegates (one on each division). it makes a big difference!!

does a twin wastegate setup on a single turbo realy make that big a difference, i allready have a split pulse entry manifold, it was for my T04Z but i am using the adaptor plate for the T51. i use a 60m HKS race gate wastegate, wich will stay atmo with a screamer and i will make a shorty exhaust from 4.5" tubing exiting behind the front wheel. the block was taken apart today, getting prepped to bore out and fit the HKS step III stroker, Trust enlarged sump, ATi balancer, and all the bits and pieces, the head will be done tomorrow, and i will be incorporating the Jun 280 @ 11.35 mm camshafts. so i think by this time next week the engine can be hung, and the painfull process of running wires and tuning the ECU can start. the gearbox is ready to go in, it has been prepped and filled with oil, the uprated driveshafts are allready bolted tight, so i hope to finish the build next week or so, cuz next weak my leave ends at work, and i have to work my arse off again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...