Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i know these cars are cheap, but its painful to see people praise them so much. the running costs will outweigh the initial price eventually, and thats when you start to realise that a 15+ year old performance car isnt such a good idea

theres also talk to the law being changed to 20 years so be careful you dont buy the car and then get it stuck in japan for another 5 years!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15948-fuk-im-in-tears/#findComment-326027
Share on other sites

20 years would be just to be to stop cars like that from getting into p-platers hands, pure and simple :P

With people supposedly paying for them now (?? has anybody done that yet).. i doubt they'd do that under them 'cause imagine the outcry. They'd at least one batch get through

itll cost you more than 20K in the first year to rebuild the engine and turbo.

more than 20k to rebuild the engine and turbo?!! you can rebuild a porche engine for less than that.. i don't think so.. 10k i'd believe, 20k noway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15948-fuk-im-in-tears/#findComment-326425
Share on other sites

If you purchased a 15+ year old car via someone like Prestige Motorsport I cannot see them turning round after purchase and saying sorry the rules have changed, bad luck.

If there was an possibility of such a change no doubt Geoff and prestige would clearly advise of it. And even in worst case scenario, if you did buy a car and the ruling did change, the importer would have to refund you the full amount as the conditions of sale had not been met.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15948-fuk-im-in-tears/#findComment-326534
Share on other sites

just cos its been rebuilt recently whos to say it aint damaged? thats complete crap... maybe it reduces the chances of it being wrecked but it only takes 1 dyno run, or 1 1/4 mile to screw and engine.

10K to rbuild an RB26DETT and 2 x turbos. youd be doing it either in your backyard or with a shitty parts list

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15948-fuk-im-in-tears/#findComment-326870
Share on other sites

i'm 19, had my P's for a full year and 1 month... with the money i've saved towards an R34 GT-T i could buy that GTR right now.... and it's O so tempting... but really, that car is off it's tits and i just wouldn't trust myself in it. But i can so relate to P platers wanting to get in one.

I wish i was more.... well.... irresponsible, cos i'd really like to buy that car :D

EDIT: anyone wanna have a guess, or an idea of what sort of power that car has. Stock GTR's are about 260kw at the fly??? I really don't know... just guessing...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15948-fuk-im-in-tears/#findComment-327527
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...