Does This Power Reading Sound Right?

[The Mafia]

heh, yeap.

[Gazee]

heh, yeap.

lol ah well at least you admit it

back to the topic...

I agree with everyone that pretty much said power figures mean nothing... which is true... if your car feels better thats what makes it all worth the time, money and effort

you said youself your calls feels better... i'd be happy

dont forget some dyno's read alot more higher than others.. different modes etc.. so yours might be more correct than others... never know but keep it all in mind..

good luck wit it all dude!

[Onthehunt]

i got a manual S2 33 with full turbo back exhaust with hiflow cat and apexi panel filter in stock airbox and stock boost. Got it dynoed today...was 34 degrees and had a terrible air flow into intercooler and intake when run was happening. It put out 228 hp which works out to 170rwkw. Is that good or bad?

[R32 Driver]

OntheHunt id say thats pretty normal

[khunjeng]

the dyno result might not be definative but its a good guide to the gains made by ur mods if the same dyno is used everytime.

[R33GOD]

thats pretty good for stock boost. i had a pfc and turned the boost up to 12 psi and only made 175rwk with the full exhaust too. why was my power output so low?

this was with the stock cooler and turbo also

Edited March 8, 2007 by R33GOD

[NicsR33]

i got the feeling most of the problem has to do with the dyno which sucks because like someone said unless you go to the same one ull never know how much of an increase you had.

the dyno at DRC showed only 147rwkw WTF? 2 days before it read 174 on another dyno and again prior to any mods it read 160rwkw completely stock. makes u wonder how good their tuning is if they can't get an accurate reading on their dyno :S

[Gazee]

i got the feeling most of the problem has to do with the dyno which sucks because like someone said unless you go to the same one ull never know how much of an increase you had.

the dyno at DRC showed only 147rwkw WTF? 2 days before it read 174 on another dyno and again prior to any mods it read 160rwkw completely stock. makes u wonder how good their tuning is if they can't get an accurate reading on their dyno :S

lol i think when tuning they use the dyno for the afrs mainly and to make sure the power curve is good... (i think anyways... me no expert )

but its just a reference.. power runs a different again but yeaaa...

[Taso84]

hi,

Hi,

im a little concerned about the power my s1 r33 skyline is making simply due to the fact ive dished out a fair bit of $$$$ only to make power noticeablity higher than someone with simple POD zorst and boost mods.

Exactly how much money have u spent if u dont mind me asking, from the mods listred below i would guess about 2G?

basically i got the following mods:

* 3" Xforce exhaust with high-flow cat

* JustJap FMIC

Prob the best 2 mods uve done

More important tho is the dump/front pipe. Get urself 1 off BOS importing for $400, U will be amazed, no joke.

* Bosch 023 internal fuel pump (biggest piece of sh*t im gonna chuck it out)

Get a 040 or 044 instead

* Bleed value (i know i should do it properly and buy an electronic boost controller)

This woulda cost ya a whole $30...lol... dont get a EBC yet, the money could be spent much better elsewhere

* Splitfire coils (cost a pretty penny too)

I'm not sure what the point of this mod is unless ur coils are failing? The stock ones can handle much more than 170rwkw

* HKS fuel defender (does nothing for mods just stops my engine from sh*tting itself)

Dont need this unless ur planning to go over 180Km/h, how much did this cost u btw, coz u wouldn't have needed 1 if ui got a PFC

* NGK Iridium sparks (nothing but the best)

Actually the copper ones are better and much cheaper 2, but thats open to debate

* APEXI POD

Get a CAI system happening as well.

* Go Fast Bits BOV

Waste of money, the stocker is good enough for now

car pulled 174rwkw on ~10-12psi, which i think is pretty lame for the mods and money spent. dont get me wrong the car pulls like crazy and is super smooth and reliable but reading the "Dyno Results Page" im a little concerned because there are alot of you guys making more power with half the mods.

Lame mayb for the money u've spent but for the mods u've done, its to be expected.

Basically u havent upgraded possible one of the biggest restrictions ur car has out of the factory.... the exhaust. Get urself a decent dump and front pipe and I shit u not, u will be prob pushing 190+ at the wheels. Whats the point of getting a highlow cat and catbak exhaust if uve got that huge restriction after the turbo.

Its like making the monash freeway after warrigal rd 10 lanes, its not going to increase the traffic flow since from the city up to that point, there are still only 3 lanes.... if thats a good analogy.

i think my next step is to run it down the 1/4, cause in the end the only numbers that matter are those.

Give it ago, i wanna take mine soon too,

Myu mods are:

POD + CAI, JJ FMIC, BOS dump/front, stock CAT, CATBACK 3.5", PFC, stock turbo, turbotech MBC, making 200 at the rears on 0.9bar. I'm hoping for low 13's but it will be difficult with street rubber and coilover suspension.

Edited March 9, 2007 by Taso84

[wolverine]

* Bosch 023 internal fuel pump (biggest piece of sh*t im gonna chuck it out)

Get a 040 or 044 instead

the 023 will probably outflow (or be lineball with an 040) so unless the pump is faulty.....it will see you to much higher power figures.

for your reference:

040 102L/hr 6.5bar

023 168L/hr 5.0bar

044 200L/hr 5.0bar

[tek_01]

taso84 i think your a mistaken with the fuel cut defender maybe your getting it mixed up with the hks speed limiter remover. purpose of the fuel cut defender it to manipulate the afm voltage so u can run some boost before your ecu shits itself

but you are right, if u have a pfc this is not needed

[NicsR33]

Taso84 your mistaken with a few of the things u said. i didn't upgrade to aftermarket parts if it wasn't needed. everything i replaced on the car was because it needed to be. eg: coils were crapping themselves, bov was leaking, exhaust was too small (and its a turbo back btw, big Xforce dump pipe), hks fuel cut defender was cheap cause i got it 2nd hand and needed it cause anything over 10psi the car was cutting out all power and i didnt' want to go spend another grand on a PFC.

if money wasn't an option i would have got a GTR to begin with, but 21 and full time uni student means i dont make that much. its running well atm so i might leave it like it is until my funding inceases.

[teazn_r33]

dyno is a tunning tool they will all read different if the car pulls hard, runs well and beats other cars then thast good

go to the drags take it down the strip see wat time you get

i like this one

* HKS fuel defender (does nothing for mods just stops my engine from sh*tting itself)

stops my engine from sh*tting itself- well thats a worth while mod than casue without a motor there will be no driving

[Taso84]

taso84 i think your a mistaken with the fuel cut defender maybe your getting it mixed up with the hks speed limiter remover. purpose of the fuel cut defender it to manipulate the afm voltage so u can run some boost before your ecu shits itself

but you are right, if u have a pfc this is not needed

Oh ok, i didnt realise, i thought the fuel cut defender was to stop the fuel cut when u hit 180K/h, but thanx for enlightening me

[Taso84]

Taso84 your mistaken with a few of the things u said. i didn't upgrade to aftermarket parts if it wasn't needed. everything i replaced on the car was because it needed to be. eg: coils were crapping themselves, bov was leaking, exhaust was too small (and its a turbo back btw, big Xforce dump pipe), hks fuel cut defender was cheap cause i got it 2nd hand and needed it cause anything over 10psi the car was cutting out all power and i didnt' want to go spend another grand on a PFC.

if money wasn't an option i would have got a GTR to begin with, but 21 and full time uni student means i dont make that much. its running well atm so i might leave it like it is until my funding inceases.

ok, fair enough, but from wat u said, it sounded like u had spent a few G's anyway. All im saying was i woulda spent the money on a PFC than coils... but if they were broken then fair enough. Did u notice any extra power/performance when u put the coils in (other than fixing the misfire or whatever was wrong with the old ones?)

With the BOV, ive seen 2nd hand ones go for less than $50, so thats a good saving if ur on a budget. It does the job so i dont see the point of buying an aftermarket one

[NicsR33]

hehe i dont really plan on going more than 180km/h, lose my licence and i lose the car so its not worth it (green p plater).

yeh i got the BOV 2nd hand it didn't cost me much, i dont think mods like bovs and electronic gizmos are worth getting new cause they dont break that often. plus i like the sound this GFB makes, its like someone cracked a whip out hehe.

i would have got a PFC if my coils were ok but yeh they were quite bad. the car is just smooth, real smooth after the coils so i should be thankful ive been in too many rough turbo cars that they make you wanna go VTEC yo!

ill take it down the 1/4 and see how i go. cheers.