Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

After some advice on which turbo/turbo's to run

Im chasing 400 awhp on a safe tune, with boost settings at 0.7 bar low and whatevers required for 400 hp on high.

I have been looking at a set of 2560R's. Whole aim is to keep the response while providing respectable power. a set of slides would also do the job however there not rated as high so I would probobly be asking more out of the turbo and im not so sure about the journal bearings? The price difference is quite large however. I also looked at a set of N1's but 3k for second hand turbo's just doesnt do it for me.

Thanks

Ian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159610-turbos/
Share on other sites

ian, you'll be after a set of gt-ss. however i doubt ull want to pay for that little HKS badge, so go and have a talk to dan, he's supplying my turbo's for me.

Another thing is to go and look at the dyno thread in forced induction (its a sticky) as there's a fair few setups and figures in there.

Youll be look at ~3k for the turbo's, then u'll prolly want to change dumps while they are off, and then u need gaskets.

On a side note, give me a figure ud be willing to pay for my N1's and i'll think about it. Also i'm selling those hks dumps, and the trust front pipe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159610-turbos/#findComment-2963491
Share on other sites

Im sending you a PM now shane.

Slide turbos would be good but I think the wait on them is about 2 months at this stage? Also there only rated to 300 kw so I would be close to maxing them out, unless that was 300 kw per turbo.

Shane, more info on the GT SS man?

The HKS GT-SS is the inbetween standards and the HKS 2530. From what i've seen its pretty comparable to N1's. A set of HKS GT-SS will cost you $3032.32 + tax if u get hit from nengun.

I know spilmer (thats his name on here) is running a pair on his gtr.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159610-turbos/#findComment-2963556
Share on other sites

I've also been looking around too Ian, decisions decisions....

a mate put some of those garret 2860R's on his 32 GTR and he's very happy, they are very responsive..

I wanted something a little bigger for my GTR but with stock internals i cant. I'm thinking about getting the Garrets too. at less than $2500 a pair brand new you can't go past em..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159610-turbos/#findComment-2964584
Share on other sites

Apparently a well set up to4z can come close to matching the GTSS's down low....I video evidence somewhere!

I attached some turbo rating info but I think it is a little old

Along side N1s and GTSS's I would look at Apexi AX53B70 P21s and Trust T517Zs

post-21318-1173339647.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159610-turbos/#findComment-2964670
Share on other sites

is that for one or both?

Both

Yeah, price is more or less the same as the 2560's ive been looking at, and this appears to be a kit with all the gaskets etc.

I've also been looking around too Ian, decisions decisions....

a mate put some of those garret 2860R's on his 32 GTR and he's very happy, they are very responsive..

I wanted something a little bigger for my GTR but with stock internals i cant. I'm thinking about getting the Garrets too. at less than $2500 a pair brand new you can't go past em..

2860R's would probobly be too big for me and response would suffer, but where did you find them at less then 2.5k a pair?

big single!

well how driveable do u want it.? u can have a small single with internal wastegate like some of the BeeR* cars.

but i also second 2530 or GT SS

yeah ive been thinking of going to a medium sized single rated to 450 HP or the like, however airflow may suffer as opposed to the twin setup? Bearing in mind im not chasing quater mile times, its being built to turn and be a daily so midrange is important.

Apparently a well set up to4z can come close to matching the GTSS's down low....I video evidence somewhere!

I attached some turbo rating info but I think it is a little old

Along side N1s and GTSS's I would look at Apexi AX53B70 P21s and Trust T517Zs

thanks for the pic man, helpful. Not all the turbos im looking at are listed on there but never the less I will look into the turbos your recomending.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159610-turbos/#findComment-2965256
Share on other sites

yeah ive been thinking of going to a medium sized single rated to 450 HP or the like, however airflow may suffer as opposed to the twin setup? Bearing in mind im not chasing quater mile times, its being built to turn and be a daily so midrange is important.

BeeR uses a 3037S on their drift RB26 should make the power you want and have strong midrange..afterall that is what they chase in D1!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159610-turbos/#findComment-2965278
Share on other sites

ian, keep in mind if u purchase a set of turbo's from nengun, ur likely to get hit with import tax, and that will soon blow the price of the turbo's way up.

going a single would be too much hassle and money. you need new manifold, dump pipe, front pipe, intercooler piping, afm piping, water & oil lines. and then it'd be majorly defectable, caus it'd be the first thing the coppers see when they lift ur bonnet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159610-turbos/#findComment-2965995
Share on other sites

BeeR uses a 3037S on their drift RB26 should make the power you want and have strong midrange..afterall that is what they chase in D1!

well i dnt remember what they are using lol.. i just remember it was an internal gate single.. that wasnt at all that big.. and was deemed quite driveable.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159610-turbos/#findComment-2966041
Share on other sites

the 2560R's seem the go at this stage, bang for buck they seem to be the best bet.

Hey shane how come ur never on msn anymore?

get them from dan, he'll beat anyone's prices :D

not on msn during the day as im at the toowong office now (until may), and i'm surrounded by stiffs :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159610-turbos/#findComment-2966120
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...