'amec' R33 Skyline White Face 300 Km/h Speedometer Cluster Kit

[WogsRus]

OK so here it goes. USE THIS AS A GUIDE ONLY. SORRY NO PICS, VERY DARK WORKSHOP AND CRAP CAMERA. so pics were crap.

The basic guide on how to remove the dash is here.

http://r33stereo.groovesystems.net/

and

http://www.cyberstork.com/cgi-bin/howto.cg...amp;imgtp=ecr33

So please follow that. Essentially once you remove the main 3 bolts shown in the tute, the whole surround can be gently pulled out from the dash. The Main surround has some 6-8 clips holding it in place.

The easies way I found to remove it was to slowly work my way around, from the centre working my way out to the driver window.

You may also need to remove the surround, around the steering wheel. I did, as I have an SAFC mounted to mine, so I could not slide the main surround out.

Once you have the surround free from its clips, undo the wiring loom for the switches, there is 3 in total, hazard lights, rear demist and power mirrors. You will also notice a small single lead wire and a hose going from the main dash surround to somewhere under the dash. This is the hose and sensor for the climate control, disconnect these.

With all the looms disconnected and the main surround free, you can tilt it forward and remove it. BE CAREFULL NOT TO SCRATCH THE MAIN SARROUND. I DID, BUGGAAAAAA.

With the Main surround out, you will see the cluster has a bezel on it, it is held in place by 4 bolts. Remove these. This will expose the cluster and the bolts holding it in place.

With the exposed cluster, undo the tree bolts holding it in place. Once removed the dash can be lifted forward. DO NOT forget to remove the 3 looms connected on the back. This is a job for someone with THIN fingers. The loom connectors have two clips, located very close to the cluster, and may be difficult to remove.

Upon removal of the loom and the bolts, the cluster can be lifted out.

Take the cluster to a table, place it on something soft, so as to not scratch the front glass part.

To remove the glass, you will find tabs around the cluster, simply press down on these and apply pressure to separate the glass form the cluster, there are 7-8 in total. YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE WHOLE GLASS AND BEZZEL.

http://www.cyberstork.com/cgi-bin/howto.cgi?sel=cut2

(Follow above link)

Once removed, you will have the dials and cluster exposed.

NOW, what I did is marked with a white board marker, a dot on the white dash part, the plastic, where the locations of the stock dials are.

The best way to do this, is to rotate the dial with your finger, GENTLY, until it stops, this is the position in which the dial has to be reinstalled in. So what I did was to move them till they had reached the end of their travel, and put a dot on the plastic, with a whiteboard pen showing maximum deflection. ALSO NOTE THE HIGH OF THE DIAL FROM THE FACE OF THE CLUSTER.

Once you have marked up where the dials are suppose to sit, remove the dials.

EASIER SAID THEN DONE. I was petrified doing this. Best way to do so, is move the dial to its maximum deflection, and keep turning the dial slowly and GENTLY. This will spin the dial on the shaft, keep going backwards and forwards, while applying upwards force, and the dials will pop out.

Once all the dials have been removed, remove the old faces. These are stuck on with tape. Get a small knife, like Stanley knife with a long blade, and gently put it under the face, between the plastic and the face. Wiggle the knife around; until you have separated the face from the dash. When the old faces are off, remove the needle stops as per instructions.

The boost gauge has to be unscrewed, while the others simply come off. Once the old faces are removed, it is time to remove the speedo as per instructions supplied.

Fallow these, along with the adjustment specified. This is the easies part of the job.

Once the speedo is back in position, it is time to put the new faces in. Simply follow the instructions. This involves pealing of the sticky back, and gluing the faces in, ensuring all line up holes and markers are sitting in their correct positions. The boost gauge has a small black surround to reinstall as well, and you will need to undo the tacho light bar, you will see what I mean.

Once the new faces are all reinstalled, it is time for the needles to go back. DO not install the stops for now. The needles need to go back in their original locations, the ones that were marked up before. ENSURE the hight of the needles is about the same as before and their locations are correct.

DO NOT WORRY if these are not spot on, these can be fixed easily later. Once all the dials are in and connected, take the cluster to the car, without the front glass in place. BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO BREAK THE NEEDLES CARRYING THE dash around. Reconnect the dash to the loom. Turn the car ignition to ON and ensure all the light and needles work. The boost gauge should sit at 0 with the ignition ON. If not readjust the needle so that it does.

Turn the car on, and see if the tacho is sitting correctly at the correct RPM. Check the water temp, fuel gauge and oil pressure gauge for correct operation.

If any of these needles are not quite right, simply rotate them around till you meet some resistance, and give them a slight turn to correct the movement range,

Go for a drive with a mate in another car, or go somewhere where there is one of them speed check things. This way you can check the speedo accuracy, if a little out, rotate and adjust the needed as per instructions. Once happy with all dial operations it’s time to finish.

Remove the cluster again, and reinstall the stops. Reinstall the glass and bezel for the cluster and put everything back in revers order.

I am sure I have missed something, but this is just a guide. It took me 2 hours, in VERY dark workshop, but that included putting new LEDs in the AC unit, and other switches.

This is a great mod, and the kit is superb. It looks very good during the day and at night with blue LEDs it looks insane.

Hope this may be of use to some people. I will post pics of new blue dash tonight.

[Pauly33GTS-t]

your second link is stuffed.

[WogsRus]

Sorry fixed now.

THIS IS THE CORRECT LINK

http://www.cyberstork.com/cgi-bin/howto.cgi?sel=img

http://www.cyberstork.com/cgi-bin/howto.cg...amp;imgtp=ecr33

Also here are some pics of what it looks like with the new cluster and blue leds. Sorry about the quality, my camera is soooooo old.

[BAMR33]

Piece of piss installing this cluster. They come with really good instructions if they're the ones off ebay.

[WogsRus]

Yeah they are the ones of eBay, butt AMEC has them as a groop buy here on SAU

[HKS99]

are they hard to see at night??? like some parts light up brighter then other areas? or is it just that photo?

[WogsRus]

It's mainly the photo and my LEDS, with standard lights, they are thesame, i have LEDS behind mine, off eBay, and they are not as bright as i figured at first. BUT my camera is sooooo old, hence the crap photos.

[Mid_Nite_R33]

how does your speedo work correctly if it was originally designed to work on a 180km/h gauge and not a 300km/h ??

wouldnt something need to be recaliberated or something apart from sticking on a face with a bigger range?

[TramanBaba]

most definitely it would have to be recalibrated. its not too hard though.. its bridging a couple of joints behind the cluster.. but he doesnt seem to have mentioned it in his tut

[justin911]

hey can someone help me with the installation please...

i tried mine tonight and it was down by about 10km. ive got the instructions but im not sure about which to solder exactly...

or if im sposed to join em etc etc... i tried a few diff combos or solder this and that but made no differance...

do you just solder across the selected points, or also join em with the other specifc ones ????

the needle also seemed to be ok. it sat on 0 on idle. and was fine until i got to about 40km/hr, then it started going less by about 10km. had my pfc and gps to check speed.

[justin911]

shes all working now

had to de-solder #6 incase anyone has the same issue.

cant get that s**t of an oil pressure gauge to work properly now tho

[justin911]

stupid oil gauge, when i turn the car to on it starts moving up which doesnt sound right considering the engine is on ?

can someone exlain how you put the needles back on so there calibrated properly, i got it working for the tacho/speedo/fuel but the other 2 arent playing nice :~(

[WogsRus]

PM replied.

BUT also PM AMEC, he can anwser in more details

[EVL-R33]

done this yesturday, first go, when i started the car, the speedo jumped up to 33kmh at stand still.. i adjusted the needle a bit lower and its fixed now.. the only thing is, at night it doesnt light up everywhere evenly, not sure if its my stock LED or the actual design of the cluster..

either way, im happy with it, great buy..

cheers!

also added a pic..

Edited September 14, 2007 by EVL-R33

[adam1982]

Does anyone know were I can get one of these kits? Or anyone have one they want to sell? I've tried Amec but he doesnt have anymore at the present time

cheers

adam

[SevenAngryPenguins]

yeah mine doesn't light up very evenly either maybe LED's is the solution

[jeffworld2]

anyone had theres kinda melt? mine are fuxored

[SevenAngryPenguins]

what wattage bulbs are you using i found mine had 5 watters in there and they were to bright so i dropped to 3 watts which is pretty good if you have 5's in there they might get a little hot for the thinner plastic

Edited December 20, 2007 by SevenAngryPenguins

[jeffworld2]

stock bulbs, and the battery has been disconnected for 3 months. they cooked under the carport

[SevenAngryPenguins]

wow no shit, ill keep my window shield thingy in for sure when its in the sun now!