Jump to content
SAU Community

Intercooler Sizing - 75mm Or 100mm Thick?

Cubes

By Cubes,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Hi ppls,

I'm redoing my intercooler and will be buying a core (most likely from JJ) and then redo the piping myself.

I'll be running maybe a touch over 300rwkw on 18-20psi.

I'm looking at a cheapy intercooler thats 600x300x75 and runs 2.5" piping from JJ on Ebay.

There's another that is the same size 600x300 but is 100mm thick BUT runs 3" piping so I'd have to run a step down silicon connector as most of the JJ/Gktech kits do.

Is a 75mm thick cheapy intercooler sufficient for 500-550bhp or should I just grab the 100mm thick item?

I know of a few running the JJ/GkTech kits and they are pushing 300rwkw without problems BUT I believe its the 100mm thick core. Any one done those sort of power levels with the 75mm core?

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

I'm running a cheapy 75mm core for my 288rwkw. I think the 100mm will be a bit harder to mount behind the reo and keep stealth.

I've been thinking about the 100mm jj core with the better end tanks though as i think there will be some gain from the tanks if nothing else.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

if you are after the absolute best then go for a tube and fin, 90mm core and minimize the pipe work if you canb

but i would only be doing that if you can afford it, have the right plenum setup and the compressor isnt way out of its efficiency zone

make sure the end takes are smooth, curved and taped and not boxey or squared off.

http://www.are.com.au/techtalk/intecoolersMR.htm

plently of info, covers turbo lag, pressure drop maps, cfm flow for 2, 2.5, 2.6 and 3 litre setups and various cores, pipes and methodology behind intercooling

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...