Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

doing research for rebuild atm, I found tomei stroker kit, but don't really understand what they are asking if anyone can explain..

the kit includes

- Forged 8 counter crankshaft

- Forged piston kit

- Forged H section connecting rod

- Oil Jet Spacer

here are the options I don't get

option between

-Bore 86.5mm

-Bore 87mm

-Bore 87.5mm

-cooling channel Bore 86.5mm

-cooling channel Bore 87mm

-cooling channel Bore 87.5mm

-RB 28 titanium coat (top ring)

what is a cooling channel? I thought in Engineering shop the engine block is bore into the diameter of the piston? They number the piston for the specific cylinder for accuracy? so what's the point of choosing bore diameter? more torque?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159966-rb25-to-rb28-tomei-stroker-kit/
Share on other sites

doing research for rebuild atm, I found tomei stroker kit, but don't really understand what they are asking if anyone can explain..

the kit includes

- Forged 8 counter crankshaft

- Forged piston kit

- Forged H section connecting rod

- Oil Jet Spacer

here are the options I don't get

option between

-Bore 86.5mm

-Bore 87mm

-Bore 87.5mm

-cooling channel Bore 86.5mm

-cooling channel Bore 87mm

-cooling channel Bore 87.5mm

-RB 28 titanium coat (top ring)

what is a cooling channel? I thought in Engineering shop the engine block is bore into the diameter of the piston? They number the piston for the specific cylinder for accuracy? so what's the point of choosing bore diameter? more torque?

choosing the bore: more capacity = more power. also, it gives you scope for future rebuilds, like getting the 86.5 now, if you ned a rebuild later, you can bore it out to 87, not that this is a realistic thing IMO

cooling channel, i have no idea, but im guessing its size depends on what piston bore you get, to maintain a certain thickness between it and the nearest cylender. might be a restrictor for the cooling system somewhere?

might i ask how much this is costing you roughly, and why you didnt just get a local RB30 built up?

I was thinking about power and torque differnece as well but I don't believe it myselft....the gap between the sizes is 0.5mm, I don't think there'll be much difference...

the kit alone cost $7.5 k but these are Jun so kinda expected....I think fitting and bore from 6-7k.. I have not done this yet, collecting info...there is the cheaper option of using CP or arias stuff...I think those cost about $5k includes N1 oil pump head studs...

I'm going to stick with RB25 no particular reason actually just personally think there's more work involved, more challenging...

personly i would have gone the RB30DETset up cause u have bigger capacity = more tourque and power, just use u'r RB25 head with or with out VCT and work that would cost a lot less and be as relierble (i.e put forgys in it).

so is that those indented shape at the sides of the pistons?

Aorry, the kit is actually Tomei.. there is a $1k price difference between the normal and hte cooling channel one....do you think it's worth the money... How bout CP kits? anyone know how big cc after bore?

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...