Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

evening fellas

im having a crack at making a pair of length adjustable lower control arms for the front, and im wondering if anyone else has done anything similar. the design itself is pretty straightforward, however im a bit lost on where I can get rose joints, fat high tensile adjustment bolts and nuts ect. anyone (in brisbane mainly) know where i can get some, or better yet, a catalouge on these? Ive had a read of some general industrial parts supplies catalouges but they are pretty slim in this area.

these are r31/s13/r32 style lower arms

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160148-custom-suspension-arms/
Share on other sites

evening fellas

im having a crack at making a pair of length adjustable lower control arms for the front, and im wondering if anyone else has done anything similar. the design itself is pretty straightforward, however im a bit lost on where I can get rose joints, fat high tensile adjustment bolts and nuts ect. anyone (in brisbane mainly) know where i can get some, or better yet, a catalouge on these? Ive had a read of some general industrial parts supplies catalouges but they are pretty slim in this area.

these are r31/s13/r32 style lower arms

rose joints u should beable to get from a bearing shop (well i know pine river bearings in brendale sells them) as 4 hi tensile bolts try a nut and bolt shop

Just a question... why does it need to be adjustable?

We modified the lower control arms on an AE86 to achieve a higher camber angle on the front. This was made after taking the required measurements to work out the extra length needed. then cut up 2 sets of lower control arms and then welded them together with appropriate reinforcements.

Just a question... why does it need to be adjustable?

We modified the lower control arms on an AE86 to achieve a higher camber angle on the front. This was made after taking the required measurements to work out the extra length needed. then cut up 2 sets of lower control arms and then welded them together with appropriate reinforcements.

why

coz its easier and u can adjust the set up to your needs

as the set ups between street, drift, and drag are all different

funny you should mention pine rivers bearings as thats where i was going to say to get them from....they supply us at work. But any bearing shop should be able to get you rose joints.

yep pine river bearings are great for import bits

they do timing belts and idler and tensioner bearings for ca18 and rb20/25/26 and there as cheap as

why

coz its easier and u can adjust the set up to your needs

as the set ups between street, drift, and drag are all different

Easier?

i can understand the want for adjustability, but if im not mistaken the R31 has not got double wishbone suspension, so adjustment can be fine tuned via a strut top adjuster rather than a lower control arm modification.

Easier?

i can understand the want for adjustability, but if im not mistaken the R31 has not got double wishbone suspension, so adjustment can be fine tuned via a strut top adjuster rather than a lower control arm modification.

like i said it makes the car easier to set up(esp for track work) as in qld u need to get a mod plate and a engineers report if u shortin (buy cutting and welding) any suspension conponments

your right craved r31s use mac struts and you can adjust camber though the top hat, but you cant adjust track. plus adjustability is neat, id hate to make a set of arms up and find out they are way too long or short. im keen on experimenting on what the cars liek to drive with it and with some fiddling to set it right.. plus the whole wanky drift cred yo thing

these arent going in a road car so engineering isnt really a concern.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...