Jump to content
SAU Community

R34gtt Or R32 Gtr

dnbutts
 Share

Recommended Posts

dnbutts Experienced

dnbutts

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

just wondering on ths pro's and con's of both r34gtt's and r32 gtr's,

been reading up on em and am hell keen on either importing or purchasing one locally within the next two months. ive got a budget of about 25k or there abouts. This will probably also be a part daily car + part weekend thing, what do you guys think i should go for in terms of power, safety, reliability etc.

any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160301-r34gtt-or-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites
ras1983 Experienced

ras1983

Posted
Posted

for that price you can get a relatively clean stock R33 GT-R. i paid 25K for my S2 V-spec. originally i wanted to purchase a R32, which is still my favourite GTR model. but the R33 is a newer car than the R32, yet you still get the RB26 and the ATESSA. remember that R32's are getting quite old, some as old as 18 years. so many of them would have had a hard life.

on the other hand, i find R34 GTT's to be a very attractive buy. they are the best looking of the non-GTR models, they are still quite new. they go hard, they have a great interior.

unless you HAVE to have a GT-R, i would get the R34 GTT over a R32 GTR.

GTI16v Contributor

GTI16v

Posted
Posted

Was in the same position as you are. I decided on buying a r34 gtt as they are newer and less lkely to cause issues. I have driven both and as a daily driver and prefer the r34 gtt for this duty.

dnbutts Experienced

dnbutts

Posted
  • Author
Posted

providing all mods are properly done, what performance increase can you expect from all intake + extraction mods... ie full zaust, intercooler, piping bla bla...

its my understand a stock GTT will push 150ish KW at the rear wheels am i correcct? Just enquiring about how much power i can gain and for how much $$$

sorry about my clueless questions, just after the best advise and figured you guys were the best to ask! cheers!

700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted
hey guys,

just wondering on ths pro's and con's of both r34gtt's and r32 gtr's,

been reading up on em and am hell keen on either importing or purchasing one locally within the next two months. ive got a budget of about 25k or there abouts. This will probably also be a part daily car + part weekend thing, what do you guys think i should go for in terms of power, safety, reliability etc.

any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks!

Both are money pits if you have the need for speed.

Two years ago I was in your shoes gtr33 or gtt..luckily I choose the gtr.

The fun thing is there are so many things you can buy for them.

Not only has my GTR bought me many smiles and giggles like a school girl...it has held its value.

A gtt two years ago where selling for 33K+.

You will need to spend money to get a reliable gtr so allow...3 to 4K after you purchase one...that is if you have no workshop receipts.

ras1983 Experienced

ras1983

Posted
Posted

I've already said this, but i'll say it again because some other guys have mentioned it.

if you are only considering a R32 GT-R, then get the R34 GTT.

HOWEVER, an R33 GT-R would be my recommendation. newer than the R32, much faster than the R34 GTT. The R33 GT-R is the best of both worlds. with a little haggling, you can get a very clean stock R33 GT-R for 25K-28K.

my brother in law bargained my car's previous buyer down to 25K for mine and it is in absolutely immaculate condition.

Topaz Grand Master

Topaz

Posted
Posted

You will always need extra cash to 'fix' an R32 GTR. Spend about $20k auction price and import a nice '94 model Vspec. Spend the other $5k fixing anything that maybe wrong with it, also to cover insurance and tyres and other ORC's. If its all good you got $5k for some rims or turbos or other mods you may like to add. Although I think the R32's had a problem with the oil pump?? that the 33's have fixed. Sooooo, yeeeaaahhhh!......

r32line Mentor

r32line

Posted
Posted
Spend about $20k auction price and import a nice '94 model Vspec.

Keep dreaming.... I was in Japan recently, quality R32 GTR's are VERY highly regarded over there.

My mate purchased a GTR there, and a 'nice' 1994 R32 GTR Vspec for $20k you will not find... and im talking purchase price, not including import/compliance etc etc. Such a car could be upto $30k in japan for a good one. I saw one for sale in a magazine which i took home, R32 GTR V-Spec II with 10,000km and to buy it in Japan it was 3,700,000 JPY... which is over $40,000 AUD. The car was not modified and granted it has insanely low mileage, but that price gives you an idea of the interest in good R32 GTR's.

Betz Rising Star

Betz

Posted
Posted

r32 GTR because they are the only real modern classic sports car from japan apart from maybe the MX5..

r32's have an appeal that just cannot be matched in the later generation cars.

its a hairy chested neandertal compared to a GTT but my god they are brilliant!

the 32 allows a competent driver to attain zen like enlightenment as to how a true GT car should behave when you push them hard.

r32 prices are soaring in Japan and there is a lot of chaff in the hay when looking for one locally, if you can find a good one buy it!

r34 GTT is a good choice if you dont have much money to spend on your car or its a commute vehicle, the only proble for me with rwd skylines is they are just a turbo coupe, the GTR's have somthing special

but then again. I have one.. so I'm bias all the way :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...