Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a quick question for you boys and girls was wondering if you could help out, now I have built my car over a few years with different stages of tuning, now its making over 300 at the wheels, as you can imagine its a pretty full on engine.

Now I remember growing up my cousins and mates all had full on street/drag cars, now I remember them getting pulled over by cops including highway patrol and getting harassed by cops all the time, just as about they are to be defected my cousins produce and engineers certificate and miraculously the cops would leave them alone.

Now my first question is, does the engineers certificate hold as much value as it once used to, and my second question is at this late stage of tuning that im in can I get my car engineered and if so where in Sydney.

Any help you can assist me with guys is a bonus.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160474-engineering-yes-or-no/
Share on other sites

Engineering certificates are still valuable... but you need to lodge them with the RTA to be valid or something. (Blueslip + engineering certifcate)

Not sure on who in Sydney... but we use Kevin Humphries up the coast (Wyong). The RTA website has a list of approved engineers.... one should be in your area. Be prepared to pass emissions though if you want to engineer a turbo back exhaust, aftermarket ecu etc.

Anything not on the engineers report can still be defected ! My mate has a sunny with a CA18DET in it. Car is completely engineered and the two times I have seen them go over it ..... it has taken them over an hour as they try and find things not on the certificates and also validate that everything listed is still identical.

Police can defect you if they want, but all you have to do is go away and make sure your car applies to the RTA's standards... not the policemans...

If it has been engineered, chances are, they wont be able to do anything... but they like to spend a lot of f**king time checking everything over...

ive got someone in Brookvale who can do it for you...

yeah I witnessed this Sunny get pulled over and saw the copper running around his car with the certificate in his hands.. the end result was the boys in blue walking away with there tail between there legs. it was gold.

I have put heaps of effort getting my car engineered and its not even done yet. BUT i have passed the emissions test and the noise DB test and all i have to do now is plate the big hole in the engine bay that the 4" pipe goes through to the AFM and take it to the engineer to get him to write up the certificate.

Click on the link in my sig for info on emissions testing

My car has got 317kw a the rear wheels which is around 430hp at the wheels and will be fully legal soon. So it can be done and i cant wait till its!

Mine should be done by mid next week.

What do you have to do with the certificate and the RTA ? do you have to go to the pits ? whats this about a blue slip ? sounds silly to me

Mine should be done by mid next week.

What do you have to do with the certificate and the RTA ? do you have to go to the pits ? whats this about a blue slip ? sounds silly to me

You need to get a blueslip from any authorised AUVIS ... doesn't need to be RTA.. then take that with your engineering certificates to the RTA. They then take a copy for their records and also lodge it against your vehicle details on the computer. Then whenever HWP etc do a rego check it flashes up *engineering certificates suppllied* or something similar. You must retain originals in your car at all times.

I actually asked one of the HWP guys my dad rides motorbikes with on weekends as I didn't believe you had to either (never used to years ago) and I was told that you have to . Chicky at the RTA confirmed also.

i rang the engineer and its all good for next week - il brace this hole this weekend and take it to him to get the certificate.

He said i just need to go to a blue slip station to get the details of the engineers certificate entered in you dont actually need to get the car to pass a blue slip :D

cant wait!

i rang the engineer and its all good for next week - il brace this hole this weekend and take it to him to get the certificate.

He said i just need to go to a blue slip station to get the details of the engineers certificate entered in you dont actually need to get the car to pass a blue slip :)

cant wait!

Just make sure when you get it done that every mod is engineered. My friends 1200 ute had a CA18 in it and was engineered for all the mods except back brakes were listed as stock drums but were upgraded to discs and they got him for that. This was a defect station however so RTA engineers were going over the car. The cops claimed that it was mainly to get rust buckets off the streets but we only saw ricers and imports get brought in. They should just go out and say it they are manufacturer racist towards the japanese. j/k

i had a cop actually tear my mates engineers certificate THEN hand out the defect notice (that was back when engineers certificates were unheard of). my mate took them to court and obviously won. now they will usually just look at it and go.

Now my first question is, does the engineers certificate hold as much value as it once used to, and my second question is at this late stage of tuning that im in can I get my car engineered and if so where in Sydney.

Any help you can assist me with guys is a bonus.

Thanks.

The cert is just an indication that at some stage the car was legal; meaning that yes, they can still defect the car

(something might have changed between issue of cert and 'now').

It's not a get out of jail free card.

Generally if you pass what I like to call the 'd1ckhead' test (that is, the police officer assesses whether they think you are a d1ckhead)

you won't have a problem. If you _don't_ have a cert, you are much more likely not to pass.

The RTA has a list of Engineering Signatories (check their website) and any of them will be able to tell you whether your car's legal or not.

If it's not they will be able to tell you what you need to do to make it legal.

He/she will then be happy to take approx $550 off your hands to write you an Engineer's Report that you must then register with the RTA

and keep a copy in your car.

Regards,

Saliya

question....how much is the general price is an engineers cert.?

also, can you get a engineers cert. for ur current mods and then when u get more mods can u add them onto the engineers cert. and pay a little bit more? for example pod, atom bov, FMIC and pay $500 now

THEN..after a while

larger turbo, injectors etc....and pay like $100 to get engineered?

or am i thinking of this the wrong way coz everyones been telling me different stories...just need to clarify

question....how much is the general price is an engineers cert.?

Depends on the engineer. Rough guesstimate is about $550 inc GST.

Do the ring-around :ermm:

also, can you get a engineers cert. for ur current mods and then when u get more mods can u add them onto the engineers cert. and pay a little bit more? for example pod, atom bov, FMIC and pay $500 now

In NSW, I don't think you'll get an atmo BOV engineered at all. I don't know about other states.

THEN..after a while

larger turbo, injectors etc....and pay like $100 to get engineered?

or am i thinking of this the wrong way coz everyones been telling me different stories...just need to clarify

Depends on the engineer. The one I used for my car said he'd be happy to inspect/add my other items

to my Report for free when I got them done (I already had the items, but they were not fitted). So 'yes' you

can do it like this (some mods now, some later, later at a lower cost).

I would guess that most would do the same; or for a minimal fee. This is assuming that you go back to

your original Signatory to get your new mods certified. If you go to a new one, expect to pay full price again.

If you make changes a long time later, expect to pay full price again.

Don't expect them to just do it though - _before_ you get your original Report, tell them what you plan to do,

and ask them about updating/changing the Report after it's been issued and whether there's any cost.

Lay out everything and ask them what they can do for you...

Regards,

Saliya

engineers certificate is WORTH IT.

I've only been randomly pulled over once by an undercover, I assume for a defect check. Ran my plates in the system, must have come up that im engineered or what ever, gave me a breath test and let me go. Then again, it could have just been that he really wanted to breath test me :) . Since i've had the car, and with its level of modifications (and the noise emitted :( ) i seriously expected to be pulled over many many many more times than i have. As soon as the car got here and went for rego i got it engineered.

But it's worth every penny.

Once it's all done, go to the RTA, get it all lodged with them, they give you rego papers with a note down the bottom saying "Engineered as per engineers certificate number blah blah blah" or some crap.

All in all, it saves you the potential hassle of getting a defect cleared up, and it makes sure everything is done propperly and safely.

P.S Got my engineering done through Stretch/Greg @ autosport engineering

Edited by Jago

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...