Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

my car is leaking engine oil from driver side of the engine bay.. initially thought it was oil filter but no sign of leak there.. not power-steering since oil is different.. are there oil lines on the drivers side.. how can i find out if the oil pump has crapped out.. will it squirt oil if it does die.. tried finding a split hose but couldnt.. seems to leak once car is under-load.. oil pressure stays aroung 1/4 mark as always.. wot else should i be looking for?? seals etc? oil seems to spray.. was all over the battery portion along the middle and just past the struts(?).. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160501-rb26-leaking-oil-help/
Share on other sites

Power steering fluid will find its way around to the drivers side quite easily. Mine does when it gets too hot & I have put too much into the reservoir. If it is red it is probably just that.

With regard to the oil pump, no an oil leak is not a sign of impending failure.

Remember that the oil filter, if it is leaking leaks on top of the front diff. It is unusual for it to get hosed all over your strut tower, hoever.

My bet is that it is power steering fluid. Check the level & maybe empty a little out. If the problem goes away you have found your man.

i dont have any relocation kit.. the leaking oil was engine oil.. isn't the power steering oil different? does make sense that one of the belts might be splashing the oil around.. not a lot of it had leaked onto the ground..

PS is red and smells different to engine oil

  • 2 weeks later...

just an update guys.. it seems like the dipstick was the culprit.. it was pushed up a little and there were oil marks on the underside of my bonnet.. it is still leaking drop here n there if i leave the car overnight.. checked underneath the car on a hoist and there's oil splash all over the exhaust and gearbox.. it could explain the overnight dripping however my concern is that i have another oil leak somewhere.. is it normal for so much oil to be splashed around like that..

i have also been told this is due to blow-by(?) and i need to install a oil catch can to overcome the excess oil.. is this correct.. i know R32 gtr's have oil problems.. is this a common solution.. wot bout oil coolers.. my car isnt for track use.. cant think of anything else.. does anyone know hoW i can check gearbox oil? thanks

just an update guys.. it seems like the dipstick was the culprit.. it was pushed up a little and there were oil marks on the underside of my bonnet.. it is still leaking drop here n there if i leave the car overnight.. checked underneath the car on a hoist and there's oil splash all over the exhaust and gearbox.. it could explain the overnight dripping however my concern is that i have another oil leak somewhere.. is it normal for so much oil to be splashed around like that..

i have also been told this is due to blow-by(?) and i need to install a oil catch can to overcome the excess oil.. is this correct.. i know R32 gtr's have oil problems.. is this a common solution.. wot bout oil coolers.. my car isnt for track use.. cant think of anything else.. does anyone know hoW i can check gearbox oil? thanks

My car used to push the dipstick up on occassion, but it turned ot the rubber corrugations on the seal at the top of the dipstick were worn smooth. So i bought a new one from Nissan and it hasnt happened since. The dipstick used to pull out too easily, but the new one has a nice firm fit. For street use, as long as your not on or near the limiter alot, you dont need coolers or catch cans.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...