Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey anyone made a custom AFM??

Am thinking of using a Q45 (90mm 3.5") internals and plumbing it into a 4"pipe.

The reason you might say, to slow the air speed through the meter which will give a greater scope. Undoubtly 4" is not much of an increase, but i can also bolt it straight to the 4" turbo inlet and use a 4" filter. I was maxed out at 20psi (260rwkw) so maybe this may help a little.

Plus it is custom and i like tinkering. hehehe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160559-custom-afm/
Share on other sites

your telling me you maxed out a q45 afm at 20psi and only made 260rwkw that doesnt sound right.. more info please

Ah good question.

Had low comp pistons and rb25 head, =extra low comp setup. It was somwhere around the low 7's cr.

When you think about it, 20psi is great for an AFM on rb30 setup, but it was the comp that was killing me, saying that it was an ignition monster, just wanted more and more. Could've thrown 30psi in there and it would've been happy.

However i have high comp standard rb30 pistons in there now so comp is a little more respectful, though would love to make over 300rwkw. So we just see.

Mate its a good experiment just to see how it all goes. plus "Custom" love custom!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160559-custom-afm/#findComment-2983997
Share on other sites

Hey anyone made a custom AFM??

Am thinking of using a Q45 (90mm 3.5") internals and plumbing it into a 4"pipe.

The reason you might say, to slow the air speed through the meter which will give a greater scope. Undoubtly 4" is not much of an increase, but i can also bolt it straight to the 4" turbo inlet and use a 4" filter. I was maxed out at 20psi (260rwkw) so maybe this may help a little.

Plus it is custom and i like tinkering. hehehe

My understanding is that if you change the internal diameter of the pipe in which the air flow meter resides you change the calibration of the meter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160559-custom-afm/#findComment-2984524
Share on other sites

My understanding is that if you change the internal diameter of the pipe in which the air flow meter resides you change the calibration of the meter.

thats more than likely trua and something that has already been discussed in the Forced induction section.

the modifictaion to the AFM would require you to create a boxed section one the side of the inlet pipe and im assuming that it would require it to be on a straight section too to ensure the flow is even through the meter.

be some fiddly work to get the mounting threads welded on to keep the unit flat inside your box.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160559-custom-afm/#findComment-2984602
Share on other sites

Yah calibrated, true, but basically whats the difference in calibration when you tune the car for the new calibration?? Yah am running a Power FC, so its all good. The only time you'd be worried about "calibration" so to speak is when you are using the standard comp.

Basically this way you are kinda tricking (real lamens terms) the computer there is less air going through the AFM, the just adjust the mixtures to suit, not rocket science.

Yah tricky making a box?? well really all you need to do is to get a bit of pipe, machine or file a basic flat, make a base plate, weld that on, then by cutting some ally plate say 20mmhigh x what ever the standard width is, then just weld it all up. Screw the AFM unit in and just silicon on a top if you can't be bothered tapping and screwing the top.

Piece of piss(if your a welder/fabricator)

Was thinking of it last night in bed for about an hour. Should hopefully have started it and maybe some pics by monday.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160559-custom-afm/#findComment-2985319
Share on other sites

Yah calibrated, true, but basically whats the difference in calibration when you tune the car for the new calibration?? Yah am running a Power FC, so its all good. The only time you'd be worried about "calibration" so to speak is when you are using the standard comp.

Basically this way you are kinda tricking (real lamens terms) the computer there is less air going through the AFM, the just adjust the mixtures to suit, not rocket science.

Yah tricky making a box?? well really all you need to do is to get a bit of pipe, machine or file a basic flat, make a base plate, weld that on, then by cutting some ally plate say 20mmhigh x what ever the standard width is, then just weld it all up. Screw the AFM unit in and just silicon on a top if you can't be bothered tapping and screwing the top.

Piece of piss(if your a welder/fabricator)

Was thinking of it last night in bed for about an hour. Should hopefully have started it and maybe some pics by monday.

only reason if that would be tricky is if the underside of the circuit board isnt flat

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160559-custom-afm/#findComment-2985336
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
Yah calibrated, true, but basically whats the difference in calibration when you tune the car for the new calibration?? Yah am running a Power FC, so its all good. The only time you'd be worried about "calibration" so to speak is when you are using the standard comp.

Basically this way you are kinda tricking (real lamens terms) the computer there is less air going through the AFM, the just adjust the mixtures to suit, not rocket science.

Yah tricky making a box?? well really all you need to do is to get a bit of pipe, machine or file a basic flat, make a base plate, weld that on, then by cutting some ally plate say 20mmhigh x what ever the standard width is, then just weld it all up. Screw the AFM unit in and just silicon on a top if you can't be bothered tapping and screwing the top.

Piece of piss(if your a welder/fabricator)

Was thinking of it last night in bed for about an hour. Should hopefully have started it and maybe some pics by monday.

Might be a bit of science in it, the afm reads the airflow and outputs in a logarithmic curve, then the computer outputs that in a linear curve using a conversion table, by increasing the diameter you may throw the curve well out of whack. How's it all going anyway? im curious to know

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160559-custom-afm/#findComment-3135213
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi, I don't know much about air flow meters but i need one for my 95 series 2 gtst skyline.

Can anyone advise me on what one to get and where to get it from?

Cheers.

You will get a better response in the Forced Induction section.

stick with STD or if you have a Power FC and are chasing power try a Z32..

Search in FI if you are unsure about this

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160559-custom-afm/#findComment-3203032
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
    • Sounds good. Provided the panel is flat/level I'd be happy to start the painting process.  While you are learning, for sure you could do this. Its only paint, you can always sand it all back and start again. Its only your time and money on materials, but while you're learning, really its time and money spent on your education.  Once you know how to do this bodywork and painting, you won't want to waste your time and money on frivolous activities lol. 
    • Yep I will use a guide coat after putting filler, I will do it on the whole panel as I'm a beginner so chances I've made quite a few errors. In that photo, I think that was a low spot, I just for example said to pretend it's flat but I will put filler + guide coat after to assess where I'm at. Yep with that picture, the panel is wet as it rained when I took the photo. But all those scratches are completely smooth, I went over it with 240 grit and can't feel it, even with my nail digging into it. I was legit thinking to buy a 2k can and spray primer to see how it turns out but then thought to myself it's going to be a mess doing it haha. Good mention there. Thanks for all that info I think I know what to do next.
    • Prior to laying down the primer, you need to make sure the surface is completely level. For example, based on this picture, I strongly suspect that the areas marked in blue are higher then the area marked in green.  If you spray primer over this entire area, then paint and clear it, the finished result will 100% show the low area. It will stick out like dogs balls. Unfortunately the paint won't magically level out the low areas as you lay it down.  Without seeing it in person, I expect that the green area will need to be filled, then use a guide coat and check that the entire repair area is level with a large sanding block.  With this picture, are you saying that even though you can see the scratches, the panel is in fact completely smooth and flat? If this is the case sure you could prep and paint it as it is.     The picture with the paint you described as blistering, it's hard for me to comment on from the photo alone. It looks like the panel is wet? Dunno, looks strange. Does the panel feel as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it? **** Going back to your question again, generally you would only sand the primer if you made a mistake while laying down the primer.  If the panel is prepped properly and you lay the primer down properly, you should not need to sand the primer.  This wouldn't work - Don't prep the panel. Spray primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas where the issues appear. Spray more primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas....... Yeah you'd go round and round in circles getting no where. 
×
×
  • Create New...