Jump to content
SAU Community

Gb#2: Jun Spec Crank Collar & Oil Restrictors (x2)


Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I just got off the phone with Matt @ the GTR Shop in New Zealand. I purchased a crank collar and 2 oil restrictors (package deal) for a total of $130AUD delivered.

He told me that the collars are made to JUN specifications and are sought after in bulk from many people in the US with RB engines (10-20 sets a week). Oil restrictors are the same as the ones you would get from Tomei (1.1; 1.2; 1.5mm available)

Matt asked me to put this up as it's easier for him to get something done in bulk than to make 50 trips to the post office...

1-5 sets: $130AUD delivered

5-10 sets: $120AUD delivered

10-15 sets: $110AUD delivered

By "set" - 1 x crank collar; 2 x oil restrictors (any combination)

post-19974-1175554102.jpgpost-19974-1175554098.jpgpost-19974-1175554093.jpgpost-19974-1175554089.jpg

post-19974-1175554079.jpgpost-19974-1175554074.jpg

post-19974-1175554060.jpgpost-19974-1175554055.jpg

post-19974-1175554051.jpgpost-19974-1175554047.jpg

post-19974-1175554069.jpg

This is an EOI only; so if there's enough interest for Matt; I'll organize it.

Interested: 8 (currently at $120AUD each)

N1GTR

Omurru (DELIVERED - 2x 1mm Restrictors)

sky30 (DELIVERED - 1x 1.5mm Restrictor; 1 x 1.25mm Restrictor)

GTR32GUS (DELIVERED - 1x 1.5mm Restrictor; 1 x 1.25mm Restrictor)

2BNVS

humz

gtrtech

Adriano (DELIVERED - 1x 1.5mm Restrictor; 1 x 1.25mm Restrictor)

munro'sgts-t (DELIVERED - 2 x 1.25mm Restrictor)

Thanks

Stan

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Straight from Matt:

We supply grubs screws as a fail safe, but if correct fitting is acheived are not needed other than piece of mind, screws are 5mm

Also interested, this is what I need to run an rb26 pump on an rb30 bottom end right?

Nope, it's for using a wide flange drive oil pump on a narrow flange crank eg; R32GTR N1 oil pump on an RB20/25/30 or early RB26 crank.

:( cheers :)

Nope, it's for using a wide flange drive oil pump on a narrow flange crank eg; R32GTR N1 oil pump on an RB20/25/30 or early RB26 crank.

:P cheers :happy:

Isn't that what I am trying to do? trying to put an 33gtr oil pump (wide flange) on a Rb30 crank (narrow flange)?

Ok so that's 4 sets... need one more :kiss:

BTW I'm still waiting for the one I ordered so shipping from NZ has taken a little bit long.

so is this an actual jun collar or knock off.

ill be buying one of these very soon, once someone can confirm this i could be interested if they arrive soon.

(organiser pm me pls as i wont check here often)

thanx

Humz; Matt from the GTR Shop has advised that this is a JUN spec knock-off - the materials and dimensions are exactly the same (what I've been told anyway)

I'm STILL yet to receive mine but will post up photos as soon as I do.

Just received the following in the mail:

1 x Crank Collar

1 x Grub Screw (black)

1 x 1.50mm Restrictor

1 x 1.25mm Restrictor

I'm not an engine parts expert but they look to be in good form; the machining is pretty good (no rough edges; no barbs etc etc.)

I'll take some photos tonight and post them up :D

Oh BTW; the reason why there is a 1.5 and a 1.25mm restrictor in there is because it comes with 2 and I didn't know what I needed / wanted so I just took the two most common ones :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...