Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Friends,

I posted this in the NS.com forums, but thought this is totally aplicable here, as said, this effects my setup too.

Please see attached which is from the Apexi PFC RX7 online guide that everyones seen (Bottom right hand corner)

gallery_14713_1542_85631.jpg

I have a mate, who's tuner used minus numbers (-0.04) i believe, when using SARD 740cc's on a SR20.

Now from all the literature iv found, plus reading around on forums like these

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=50277

It seems pretty clear that going injectors double the size, would need settings like 50% for the size and PLUS (+0.04) numbers for the lag time.

Seriousally, any help would of massive help!! Im 99% of the A:, would just like some HC acknowledgment of the setting.

THANKS!!!

Michael

Edited by GeeTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161243-apexi-fc-injector-lag-time-setting/
Share on other sites

It seems pretty clear that going injectors double the size, would need settings like 50% for the size and PLUS (+0.04) numbers for the lag time.

I'm not sure this is as clear as you think, surely when fuel pressure is constant and you double the size of the injector, it's not going to flow double the amount without increasing pressure?

someone set me straight if this isnt correct ( be nice ) but isnt the closed loop on the fc factory set, so wouldnt that mean you adjust injector percentage until its in the correct afr range of 14.3-14.7 at idle? then correct your fuel map for "wot"

anyhoo mine is a rb25 and has nismo 740's set to 65% and 0.00, afr's sit on mid 14's then dips too 11.5 then sits flat on 12 till redline.

when i installed i set to 50-55% and closed loop could only manage high 15's

no problem with pops or cold starts here and those settings were left alone!

i think this subject should be discussed further, no offense but the FAQ is a little vague in this area!

I'm not sure this is as clear as you think, surely when fuel pressure is constant and you double the size of the injector, it's not going to flow double the amount without increasing pressure?

someone set me straight if this isnt correct ( be nice ) but isnt the closed loop on the fc factory set, so wouldnt that mean you adjust injector percentage until its in the correct afr range of 14.3-14.7 at idle? then correct your fuel map for "wot"

anyhoo mine is a rb25 and has nismo 740's set to 65% and 0.00, afr's sit on mid 14's then dips too 11.5 then sits flat on 12 till redline.

when i installed i set to 50-55% and closed loop could only manage high 15's

no problem with pops or cold starts here and those settings were left alone!

i think this subject should be discussed further, no offense but the FAQ is a little vague in this area!

How do you stop the dip to 11.5 A/F?? mine goes to 11 and i want to lean it off a little when i press the throttle

How do you stop the dip to 11.5 A/F?? mine goes to 11 and i want to lean it off a little when i press the throttle

dyno time is the easy answer, someone who will take the time to flatten out the afr's, mine coincided with a slight boost spike and was advised to leave alone!

I am not sure that would be a very good way of doing it because if you do that then how do you really know what the a/f is on cruise ?

Every power fc i have tuned I have reset the ecu and used no injector correction and use the numbers in the map to controll the fuel - i usually leave the ignition timing stock unless trying to bring on boost quicker (big turbos only)

Anyway the reason i think that is not right is because if your relying on closed loop mode to keep your a/f ratios in order on cruise is that it will not be very reliable or very fast in gauging what the ratio's are to correct it and also keeping in mind that the oxy sensors are very slow and it will be running really rich or lean untill its corrected.

The best way to do it IMHO is to completly re program the whole map and leave all corrections standard so the car runs good a/f ratios on cruise and leave the oxy sensor OFF. i have found that it ALLWAYS richens the mixture up to the point where it uses more fuel and changes the a/f ratio from 14.7 back down to 13.3 - 13.8 which is using more fuel then is needed.

I guess thats one of the the differences from getting a quick $200 tune to a $800 tune from various workshops around the place.

Keep an eye out that some people around are only reporting 300km's to a tank with 200rwkw and some (like myself) get over 500 if i dont hammer it everywhere with over 300rwkw.

If your in nsw near sydney send me a PM if your keen to fix it up on a road tune..

I'm not sure this is as clear as you think, surely when fuel pressure is constant and you double the size of the injector, it's not going to flow double the amount without increasing pressure?

someone set me straight if this isnt correct ( be nice ) but isnt the closed loop on the fc factory set, so wouldnt that mean you adjust injector percentage until its in the correct afr range of 14.3-14.7 at idle? then correct your fuel map for "wot"

anyhoo mine is a rb25 and has nismo 740's set to 65% and 0.00, afr's sit on mid 14's then dips too 11.5 then sits flat on 12 till redline.

when i installed i set to 50-55% and closed loop could only manage high 15's

no problem with pops or cold starts here and those settings were left alone!

i think this subject should be discussed further, no offense but the FAQ is a little vague in this area!

Edited by Guilt-Toy

I agree a full remap is important, I just wonder whether a 50 % setting for 740's is anywhere near enough fuel, it will get it to the tuner but will need more work!

and yes i have had a full tune, thanks for the offer,

I have a apexi pen timer with afr feedback are these very accurate ? seemed pretty good compared to the dyno reading, it sits on 14.7 on cruise,

just for reference Guilt-toy were did your injector setting end up?

Anything using the standard oxy sensor is not going to cut it as far as i am concerned. Sure its good for a guide and cruise it could be okay but for tuning you must use a wide band.. i prefer the Autronic one but alot of the cheaper ones are just as good these days

I have re-mapped my ecu twice in the last 3 months (once when it just hit 800ks at 296rwkw for fuel economy which failed missions and the second time to pass the emissions test and 317rwkw)

The first time i had stock fuel pressure and had it set to 0% either way and the second time i raised the fuel pressure from 28psi (yeah it was low) to 45psi and i had to drop it down to 77% because the numbers would not go low enough to give me 14.7 a/f on idle and i ended up running out of fuel (walbro 550hp pump at its limit)

I am going to re-do it again in a few months after i save up some money for a 044 pump and possibly surge tank and a better fuel reg which i will do as a road tune up to 20psi and then more boost will be saved for the dyno soon after.

I agree a full remap is important, I just wonder whether a 50 % setting for 740's is anywhere near enough fuel, it will get it to the tuner but will need more work!

and yes i have had a full tune, thanks for the offer,

I have a apexi pen timer with afr feedback are these very accurate ? seemed pretty good compared to the dyno reading, it sits on 14.7 on cruise,

just for reference Guilt-toy were did your injector setting end up?

the pfc faq has a better explanation of the injector correction and latency screens

that old stuff you screen captures is from the rx7 with pri and sec injectors

thats only likely to confuse you more, check the pfc faq under advanced tuning (its in my sig)

Whoah, i watched 30 views on this thread in 24 hours, then check it now, and 100+ and 10 responses :) THANKS!

Let me pull the reigns in a little.

Im not so much talking about the precise setting of injector correction nor latency, its if larger injectors generally need a Positive or a Minus latency setting. In the example i gave, a mates SR20 with double sized injectors, the tuner used a minus value, whereas if i read the manual, it should be a positive number made up from the new injector time - stock injector time.. giving a POSITIVE number ( me would have thought)

Thats my question.

Lag times are not directly related to the size of the injectors and are not linear. When you get the injectors flow tested and cleaned they should be able to give you all the relevant info.

Thanks DivHunter, i didn't know one could get a definitive answer of inj lag from a injector flow bench setup ( as i also don't know the exact latency of the SARDs i have)

As for if the latency is more in a larger injector... well i would have thought it was clear that a higher flowing unit, would need a larger hole, and a higher spring pressure keeping the pintle seated, therefore causing more "Injector Latency" Flame away :)

As for the injector scaling debate, I think I'll scale it as close as I can, to keep close loop on cruise, and then just tune the higher values.

PaulR33, i searched your site solid, though cant find the "advanced tuning" manual :rofl:

Although Microtech's and other don't have the setting, Haltech and Motecs do, which leads me to believe theres some importance in setting it correctly... even if most multi point / sequential injecton setups go batch fire after 4000rpm.

Please keeps the thoughts comming!!

Q: "Is the setting the Positive delta between the new and stock injector latency times???

M

Straight out of the FAQ -

How do I configure larger injectors?

Configuring larger injectors into the PowerFC is quiet simple and takes only a few moments. You need to know the following information before you can continue

Current injector size

Current injector latency

New injector Size

New injector Lag time

Injector Size and Latency (standard units)

Unit Size Latency

RB26 444cc/min 0.772msec

RB25 370cc/min 0.528msec

SR20 (Jap Spec Manual) 448cc/min 0.584msec

Aftermarket New Units 600cc/min 0.810msec

To work out new INJECTOR correction and latency;

Old SIZE / New Size = Correction

Old Latency - New Latency = Latency Correction

John plans to install 600cc injectors into his RB26 VL Turbo. The following figure's are used;

444 / 600 = 0.74 * 100 = 74.0%

0.81 - 0.77 = +0.04 msec

So he would enter 74% for correction and 0.04 as new latency

Once you have switched to larger injectors you should still check your AFR's with a wideband to ensure they are safe and acceptable.

Straight out of the FAQ -

Clearly i was feeling a little "special" last night, and looking through the site, not the FAQ.

Well Paul's example is about as clear cut as they get. That, along with the old RX7 manual, plus comments from others... to me thats definitive!

Time to kick some tuner ass :bunny:

Thanks as always for all thoughts and help!!

M

Whoah, i watched 30 views on this thread in 24 hours, then check it now, and 100+ and 10 responses :laugh: THANKS!

Let me pull the reigns in a little.

Im not so much talking about the precise setting of injector correction nor latency, its if larger injectors generally need a Positive or a Minus latency setting. In the example i gave, a mates SR20 with double sized injectors, the tuner used a minus value, whereas if i read the manual, it should be a positive number made up from the new injector time - stock injector time.. giving a POSITIVE number ( me would have thought)

Thats my question.

Thanks DivHunter, i didn't know one could get a definitive answer of inj lag from a injector flow bench setup ( as i also don't know the exact latency of the SARDs i have)

As for if the latency is more in a larger injector... well i would have thought it was clear that a higher flowing unit, would need a larger hole, and a higher spring pressure keeping the pintle seated, therefore causing more "Injector Latency" Flame away :yes:

As for the injector scaling debate, I think I'll scale it as close as I can, to keep close loop on cruise, and then just tune the higher values.

PaulR33, i searched your site solid, though cant find the "advanced tuning" manual :thumbsup:

Although Microtech's and other don't have the setting, Haltech and Motecs do, which leads me to believe theres some importance in setting it correctly... even if most multi point / sequential injecton setups go batch fire after 4000rpm.

Please keeps the thoughts comming!!

Q: "Is the setting the Positive delta between the new and stock injector latency times???

M

there is no rule to say larger injector has a slow response time. you are linking two things that are not directly linked. latencey/lag time/response time is one thing. flow rate (measured in cc per min) is another. Yes GENERALLY a larger injector will have a longer/slower response time which means a + adjustment in the PFC. BUT don't take it as a rule. just find the specs for the injectors you have, and the injectors you want to use and then you can tell me if it is a + adjustment or a - adjustment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
×
×
  • Create New...