Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Jesus, didn't this thread get filled with lots of bullshit quick. I assume everyone knew that Apexi Japan was in financial strife (hence they pulled out of D1) and that they filled for government support to prevent bankruptcy. It would also be safe to assume that they got their support judging by what nengun has posted up regarding Apexi resuming business as usual. Offcourse u won’t find any info on Google regarding this issue, the only one's concerned are Apexi's dealers who have mostly posted info on their sites and the consumers who talk about it on forums

that is incorrect!

Apexi pull out of Japan D1 to foucs of the USA D1 ... or so they said in the option video... they also said somsething about bigger market for there products that is why they were foucing on usa

does anyone actually know what is happening? i want a pfc for my 33...i spoke to a car place today and they said it should be going back to normal soon, they said that's what they got told by supplier

its a good way to get fools to snap up all their old stock........

its almost like that south park episode where eric buys a theme park and doesnt let anybody in, but that only makes people want to go in even more. Same principle, you cant have this ecu, so people go crazy

thats cause everyone wants to save 200-400 dollars.... trying to save face. ah yes. If I can't find a Power FC within 2 months, im going to just bite the bullet and get a Haltech E11.

just like the killer toys you have seen in so many movies and the simpsons the Power FCs were programmed to take out what they consider lesser ecus. sit your PFC down next to a microtech and see what happens! They also have a milenium bug that will hit when we reach the year 2010. all PFCs will simultaneously advance timing to max, and lean out your fuel which will result in massive japanese car explosions world wide. this was perpetrated by apexera's US operation as a punishment for apexera japan using their japanese language which made it hard for US customers to understand anything. after being made to feel silly, and pissed off at the lack of an english manual for PFC even after 10+years of OS sales the US operation outsourced some coding to indian skyline terrorists. so my advice to you is don't do driving on 10/10/10.... aka D-Day (detonation day).

LOL at the amount of crap being tossed around here...

This is from a source from Japan (one of Apexera's competitors);

Apexi has shifted it's market focus from Japan to the USA where Trust and HKS already have a solid market base. Apexi; in the hope of establishing themselves quickly have flooded the US market with copious amounts of "small" parts - this has lowered the brandname from a reputable tuning house from Japan to something similiar to your SuperCheaps or Autobarns. A lot of the Apexi products are NOT selling in the USA and have subsequently been returned leading to a profit loss. This change in direction has not only cost Apexi the initial setup $$$ but also big amounts from profit not earned from an uninterested US market.

Makes a lot of sense; explains why the APexi range has slowly become "discontinued" as it believes that the USA market is the way to go (how many Skylines are in the US?)

My 2c

LOL at the amount of crap being tossed around here...

This is from a source from Japan (one of Apexera's competitors);

Apexi has shifted it's market focus from Japan to the USA where Trust and HKS already have a solid market base. Apexi; in the hope of establishing themselves quickly have flooded the US market with copious amounts of "small" parts - this has lowered the brandname from a reputable tuning house from Japan to something similiar to your SuperCheaps or Autobarns. A lot of the Apexi products are NOT selling in the USA and have subsequently been returned leading to a profit loss. This change in direction has not only cost Apexi the initial setup $$$ but also big amounts from profit not earned from an uninterested US market.

Makes a lot of sense; explains why the APexi range has slowly become "discontinued" as it believes that the USA market is the way to go (how many Skylines are in the US?)

My 2c

Good to see someone has something constructive to add

so are they making mre PFC's? i thought his being discontinued was for other reason, and it happened before the bankruptcy? heres my version of the bullsh*t: i have heard from several sources the NEC who make the boards for the PFC stopped making them or something? there are a couple of other reasons to which i cant remember right no

NEC stopped production of the chip used in the ECR33 & ER34 PowerFCS.

The chipset im pretty sure is the DF74 cpu and the GTR PowerFC uses a different CPU so they are still being made.

A few PFC versions have been canned, the wrx was one of them, the pro versions are gone and so to are the ap engineering versions.

But the mainstream FCs are still being made and still avaiable at the normal cheap prices. I brought a BNR32 PFC for $840 brand new and should have it in 1.5 weeks delivered to AUS so certainly no issues there

Subaru - WRX - Ver1,2 92/11-96/8

Subaru - WRX - Ver5,6 98/9-00/7

Subaru - WRX - Ver3,4 96/9-98/8

Honda - Civic - Type R 97/6-98/8

Honda - Integra - Type R 95/9-01/6

Mitsubishi - Evo - VI 99/1-01/1

Mitsubishi - Evo - V 98/1 - 98/12

Mitsubishi - Evo - VII 01/2 - 02/3

Nissan - Silvia - RPS13 (Red Head) 91/1 - 93/12

Nissan - Silvia - S13 Red Top 91/1 - 93/9

Nissan - Silvia - RPS13 (Black Head) 94/1 - 96/7

Nissan - Silvia - S14 96/6 - 98/12

Nissan - Silvia - RPS13 (Black Head) 96/8 - 99/1

Nissan - Silvia - S15 99/1 - 02/7

Nissan - Skyline - BNR34

Nissan - Skyline - BNR32/BCNR33

Toyota - Mark II, Chaser & Cresta - JZX100 Automatic 96/9-01/7 1JZ-GTE (Mark II only to 00/9)

Mazda - RX7 - Series 1-3 91/12-95/11

Mazda - RX7 - Series 4 95/12-98/12

Mazda - RX7 - Series 5 99/1-00/9

Toyota - Altezza - SXE10 98/10-01/4 3S-GE

Toyota - Celica - ZZT231 99/9 - 2ZZ-GE

Toyota - Altezza - SXE10 98/10-01/4 3S-GE (Suitable for Apexi Turbo)

Toyota - Altezza - SXE10 01/5 3S-GE

Toyota - Altezza - SXE10 01/5 3S-GE (Suitable for Apexi Turbo)

Toyota - Mark II, Chaser & Cresta - JZX100 - Manual 96/9-01/7 1JZ-GTE

that from nengun

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...