Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wanna do "some" internal work to the value of about $3000 (incl labour) if i do forged pistons, do i need to do the rods too or is that not necessary? Is there another option to forgies? I read once in a mag that there was another option which is better on cold start than forgies are. How much would i be looking at for pistons and which brand would be a better option, for just a street car with occasional track outings and sometimes running the 1/4

Any help, advice or websites will be much appreciated.

ta

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/
Share on other sites

So, you have told us absolutely nothing about your cars modifications, or what type of engine you are planning on doing this too.

Your budget is completely unrealistic for what is effectively an engine rebuild - Pistons/rings alone will chew at least half your budget, and good luck finding a quality workshop that will do engine r & r, full disassembly, machine work and reassembly for ~$1500!

A good set of forged pistons with rings will cost anywhere from ~$1200 or so up to $3,000 depending on what you want. Common reputable brands such as CP or ACL would probably be the best for you.

Bottom line, if you want to rebuild your engine with 'forgies' and you want to do it right, be prepared to set aside $10k including parts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-2998158
Share on other sites

my rb25 acls with rings and gudgeon pins was under 1k delivered. Your rebuild will be purely based on your power goal. No need to put in whats not required.

Other option your thinking of is hypertek pistons i believe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-2999553
Share on other sites

oopz sorry, its an rb25 all i want from it is around 270 - 300 rwkw, but im in no rush, i also have seen some cast pistons which may well do the job as they are 40% stronger than standard items... (any comments?) oh ive got alot more than 3K ready for it, but like i said id rather do it slowly also i cant do without a car for long, so i was thinking pistons first with a set of gtr rods if i can do that (cryogenically treated to strengthen it) if i do pistons do i have to do the rods too?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-2999729
Share on other sites

If you do pistons you dont have to do rods, thats optional, You can get your old ones race preped so to speak, and will handle you power goal fine if you do, If you want to over exceed that get rods, as this will save having to open the engine up again. hpe that answers your question, and as the others have stated, unless your doing the work yourself 3k is not enough far from enough

Piston Bores require a hone/bore for oversized pistons rings, and machine work for block plus your head work been best to get a full service done to it is anywhere from 1300 - 2k For the above

Pistons another 1300

Then you have to include labour, bearings, Gaskets, Water/oil pumps, Belts, Oil, Coolant, Theres the good part of 3k upwards

Ummm hope they answer your enquiries

Cheers

A

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-2999751
Share on other sites

man its unbelievable how much people get charged to get stuff done....i rebuilt my whole rb25 with forged pistons 20 thou over, new bearings all throughout, recod head with new stem seals and cut the valves and seats, decked block, new welsch plugs and faced the head and i did pretty well most of it myself except the machining, oh a cometic mls gasket as well...i think i spent max 3k that included a few new lines and hoses. Was pissed that they didnt reassemble the head...i had to lap the valves in myself and reassemble it....and i lost a collet in the process.

Workshop manual and a little time and you can save alot of money. However i wouldnt recommend it if your not confident in your mechanical ability.

For the power output your looking at mate...all you need is what i did. Probably not even that. Dont waste your time on rods, if your going for 400rwhp, maybe put some arp studs or bolts in them, unless you can find a cheap set of gtr rods.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-2999762
Share on other sites

like i said guys if i dont have to get forgies to achieve 300rwkw i wont get them, but just for piece of mind id like to get something stronger than factory ive seen cast items which are 30% stronger than factory ones anyone used these? anyone with any experiece with these gimme some comments ta

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-3003025
Share on other sites

as far as im aware (rebuilt my rb25 2 weeks ago) i couldnt find anyone in aus who sold a STD rb25det cast piston..only pistons available were forged.. 300rwkw or 200rwkw if u get bad detonation ur going to blow a piston wether its cast or forged...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-3003080
Share on other sites

dont get cast get forged.....there only like 1100 bucks so no that expensive if you wanna go big later. But the thing i found with my rebuild that all the little crap like head gasket, gasket kit, bearings, timing belt, idler/pulley, water pump tensioners and all the little bits and pieces you made need here and there all cost you money. like with my gf wrx were rebuilding now found out the clutch was stuffed aswell so theres at least another 500 on my rebuild for that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-3003430
Share on other sites

man its unbelievable how much people get charged to get stuff done....i rebuilt my whole rb25 with forged pistons 20 thou over, new bearings all throughout, recod head with new stem seals and cut the valves and seats, decked block, new welsch plugs and faced the head and i did pretty well most of it myself except the machining, oh a cometic mls gasket as well...i think i spent max 3k that included a few new lines and hoses. Was pissed that they didnt reassemble the head...i had to lap the valves in myself and reassemble it....and i lost a collet in the process.

Workshop manual and a little time and you can save alot of money. However i wouldnt recommend it if your not confident in your mechanical ability.

For the power output your looking at mate...all you need is what i did. Probably not even that. Dont waste your time on rods, if your going for 400rwhp, maybe put some arp studs or bolts in them, unless you can find a cheap set of gtr rods.

ppl like me pay for it cos I dont have any time to spent building engines.. my mechanic does that.

However looks the good from what you have done. What sort of power are r u running?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-3003566
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...