Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello all

i am looking at getting my rear spoiler removed so it can be repaired and repainted due to the clear coat having sunburn, and it is all falling off and generally looks like shit.

i have a quote to re-do the entire rear gate and spoiler as well as the eyelids i have at around 250-300 bucks.

painter also spottoed a run in the rear bar that he said would rub out no worries and then be cut up to look all brand new too.

so if i can get any tips on removing the spoiler without smashing/scratching any thing else around it?

also i would like to get the little plastic covers at the rear of the side windows removfed and painted black so it looks as if the windows go all the way back to the tailgate, so any tips on the removal of these would be greatly appreciated too.

cheers oxford

Not that I've removed the spoiler, I would say that first point to look at removing it would be to remove the inside plastic trim surrounding rear window. Easier to remove rear brake light cover and the trim will pop off quite easily.

More than likely there will be a couple of bolts holding in the spoiler you will need to undo.

Remove the two rubber grommets at each end of the tailgate - the ones where the electrics etc go through. And there will also be a mount in the middle once again, behind the oval shaped rubber grommet.

Dont know about the panels behind the rear glass, but removing the plastic inner lining would be the best place to start.

Has your car had a respray at some stage? I would doubt the original SFHC to be stuffed by now, and the run in the rear bar sounds a bit sus.

I'm about to do the same thing, getting a whole new kit fitted and want to reomove everything my self so I can sell it off while the cars at dmd. And the paint on my wing is stuffed too, all blistered while the rest of the car is fine. Strange!

Will try on the weekend but if you end up finding out let us know

I am inclined tobelieve the SHFC is a load of bullshit. My duco looks std but the bushes in mydriveway scratch the living shit out of my Stags paint job. Not to mention keys and worst of all, bloody diamond rings. (I've hocked mine to pay for the petrol) If you cant afford 98, buy a Dunnydoor and gas it. FLOLFLOLFLOL>

PS> I'm in a real good mood tonite caus I burnt the barbie pitch black and had to send out for Chinese.

And mybeloved SOUTHS are on a mini roll. WHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOPPPPPPPEEEEEEE.

Shades of 68.

Edited by 66yostagea

i believe from what the yard i bought it from tells me anyway. my car has a small repair in the left rear quarter,and from what i can tell there is evidence supporting that but it doesn't look as though it was anything major, my painter has since told me that he sees the paint clearcoat peeling all the time on many imports whether they are nissan or other.

he also said that the SFHC is a load of shit too as it doesn't really achieve anything other than make the car harder to prepare if any repairs are req'd at any time in the future.

i have seen the mounting bolts on the side of the wing inside the rear gate but it appears that it is only a locator pin in the centre as i could not feel any thread on it so i a was wondering whether its held on with either urethane or double sided tape etc.?????

was also wondering what would look like without it too and just bog up the holes maybe? anyone seen one like that????

or buy a RICER wing for it and make it look like a daewoo hahahahaha

IMHO it would definitely have double sided tape as well as the mounts. Just use a long shape blade - it wont matter if you scratch the paint as you are repainting it anyways.

IMHO 2, keep the wing on, or why would everyone else be after Alex Cim to hurry up and finish off his group buy.

Josh does that mean your selling that front bar (in your avatar) and some side skirts?????

Everything will be up for sale (front bar, rear lip, side skirts, wing, R34 side mount IC, factory aribox with a k&n etc) I've already got the airbox up for sale in the Stagea section and will add to it as I remove other stuff. Next to go up will be the R34 side mount, hopefully after this weekend. But to be fair I already have some interest in some of the body parts but if that falls through then it will all be up for grabs.

Sorry back on topic now.

I think I'll just let the shop remove everything and then I'll sell it all after. Will be so much easier and the car won't look shite :unsure: unless someone finds an easy way to do it. Its not really going to make it cheaper for me.

Edited by Mr_RS4

super fine hard coat - not all stagea's have it, but if yours does it will be written on the rear window just above the rear wiper pivot :D

Mine does and I think its way cool - water beads off and over 100kph it just streaks off the bonnet even when its dirty.

my stag has sfhc but the panel and paint shop i took it to to get a ding fixed stufed up my bonet. they buffed and polished it and it left bad swirl marks after a few days. took it back and complained so the gave it another buff and a week later the swirls came back, moral of the story :) dont buff sfhc

On removing the side panels, the bottom part pulls out from the outside as it is held in by clips, the top half was very tight so I didn't wanna risk snappping it off. It's possible?? that the top clip is just a different type or mine just really tight. I would assume that the whole lot just unclips from outside.

Would proberly better to look it up on FAST 1st.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...