Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.

I'm about to start modding my car again and am changing my high-flow turbos for a couple of the new T28-10's.

While I'm at it I will be changing the intercooler from stock to a new Trust cooler.

I was going to go with the Trust Type 23 - 302x600x115 (3 core) however my mechanic adised I should be going

with the Trust Type 24 - 284x600x76 (2 core) citing that the larger cooler restricts airflow to the radiator too much

and that the Type 23 is good enough.

Experiences - Thoughts???

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161861-intercooler-advice/
Share on other sites

i would tend to agree. 76mm is still quite a thick core. and going to 115mm will mean practically no airflow is making it through your intercooler and air con core to the radiator. personally for anything up to 350rwkw I'd be happy with the 76. if it's more power than that you're after then the big core may be a good idea, and a new radiator wouldn't hurt either :D

  • 1 month later...

Would a clean undented fin 32 GTR intercooler be better than a 100 mm thick aftermarket core if its got fins that are dented a bit an kinda closed up doesnt leak but looks shitty an I think might be resticting flow a bit.

Anyone got dimensions of the stocky?

Might be able to get a good condition stocker cheapish thinking it will make a good stopgap till I can source a ARC or something

Been having some cooling probs so thinking the thick core might not be helpin

Edited by noone

the reason there are such thick ones is for drag racing wher the sheer mass of the things is where the cooling happens. rather than relying on a volume of air going thu it.(still gos thru)

interesting note. on our race supra. it had a 700x300x76 cooler in it. 22 row. it used to overheat. so.. we cut it inhalf. to make a 700x150x76 core. 11 row. now it doesnt overheat and made NO DIFERANCE to inlet tmps on the track.

My idea of intercoolers has always been to get the smallest you can get away with for your application, the bigger the intercooler gets means more volume that the turbo's have to fill up with air before that air reaches the throttle body and hence worse response from off boost to on boost

the reason there are such thick ones is for drag racing wher the sheer mass of the things is where the cooling happens. rather than relying on a volume of air going thu it.(still gos thru)

interesting note. on our race supra. it had a 700x300x76 cooler in it. 22 row. it used to overheat. so.. we cut it inhalf. to make a 700x150x76 core. 11 row. now it doesnt overheat and made NO DIFERANCE to inlet tmps on the track.

I'm convinced T04GTR that most of your posts, while factual sound, are bashed out, while coming down off a heroin hit. Your English is completely "EnGrish" i love it.. keep up the good work!!!! :D

I'm convinced T04GTR that most of your posts, while factual sound, are bashed out, while coming down off a heroin hit. Your English is completely "EnGrish" i love it.. keep up the good work!!!! :(

he's from NSW, can you really expect much more? :D

ARE can run some calcs of ur setup and come up with the right sized cooler for your needs. $90 for it, and u get $50 back if u buy one of their coolers (which are only $1500)

or if you're nice he might just do them for you anyway...

90mm ARE is sweet

post-1486-1179365587_thumb.jpg

ARE can run some calcs of ur setup and come up with the right sized cooler for your needs. $90 for it, and u get $50 back if u buy one of their coolers (which are only $1500)

a decent new jap one is only $1500 new, ARE are spin doctors.

We just replaced the 78mm generic tube and fin cooler one on cats car with a brand name 115mm unit and repeated runs on the dyno show the advantage of having larger cooling area, there is far less heatsoak after 10 or so runs. This combined with phenolic intake gaskets has been quite suprising.

Edited by URAS
a decent new jap one is only $1500 new, ARE are spin doctors.

We just replaced the 78mm generic tube and fin cooler one on cats car with a brand name 115mm unit and repeated runs on the dyno show the advantage of having larger cooling area, there is far less heatsoak after 10 or so runs. This combined with phenolic intake gaskets has been quite suprising.

you seem to love your jap 'brand names' alot dont you and your fast to beat down on the aussie gear :unsure:

hows the response changed of the car with the larger cooler?

well they may be the same money as a Japanese cooler but I'm willing to support the Aussie team at ARE

after all it's a lump of aluminium.

note mine's a tube/fin 90mm ARE made to order through discussions with them.

service means alot to me too.

you seem to love your jap 'brand names' alot dont you and your fast to beat down on the aussie gear :thumbsup:

hows the response changed of the car with the larger cooler?

i do because we get fed a lot of baseless shit..... a local guy in a shed struggling to make sales needs a good line.... do a bit of back ground work and you will soon find the facts behind the product, where it comes from and whether or not it is as good as the line you were spun....

as for response after a quick tidy up it was barely noticeable, actually far less than i had expected.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...