Jump to content
SAU Community

Best Oil For Rb26?

shredder667
 Share

Recommended Posts

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
10w 40 and two engines, oilcooler on second, unless there's somthing inside this one i don't know about but it should be stock and been in place for 3 years.

The factory workshop manual recommends 7.5w 30 sg grade ( but thats for japans weather ), 4.2 liters without filter change and 4.6 with.

Your engine failure wasnt due to the oil

Its due to a LACK of oil

XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

Not sure could be alot of things but lack oil certainly not i have always made very sure the oil level was just over the full line ( about 3-4 mm ) before every time i went on to the track, both happened on very hot days ( 30 DEG and up ), one at Wakefield and one at Eastren creek and so i've stopped doing track days when its over 30 DEG and that seems to be working.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

motul 300V is good enough for many factory race cars including nismo. it's good enough for me. franky, i'm not sure why your engine didn't 'like' it, but I'd say it's some problem with the engine, not with the oil. I have now been running it for 3 years. oil pressure at 80degreesC at 3000rpm is 6 bar.

Topaz Grand Master

Topaz

Posted
Posted
If its all standard approx 4.5 Litres with filter of course, Enjoy your first journey of removing the oil filter from standard location :P its not fun :)

Its actually not as hard as everyone says it is :D. You just need to be standing in the right position (awkward) and get a backwards grip on the filter to pry it loose, then your home free.

I just hate the cleanup afterwards .... :)

Main reason I haven't got a remote setup is because I don't mind the little extra effort it takes on an RB26.

My oil = Mobil 1 10W30. For $85 for 5L it better be as good as the rest.

XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

Yes many factory race teams probly do use motul oils but 300v we can buy of the self not likely,

6 bar 3000 rpm is to high when the recommended pressure at 6000rpm is only 451 kpa ( 4.51 bar, 65 psi ) as per workshop manual ( page 39 - en-22 ),

the first engine spun number 6 big end which i'd put do to tight off camber corner and the oil pick up drying out but the second one was all 6 and mains and to me thats oil failure,

which was not my point to start with, the point is stock or near stock GTR street driven buy any oil thats full syn and it should be just fine

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

6 bar at 3k rpm when warmed up sounds high. i only ever hit 6 bar when my engine is dead cold, when running it's 1-4bar depending on idling vs driving.

some people reckon that pressure is just a restriction of flow and that high pressure is a bad thing - means you should be using a lower viscosity oil.

i think having "some" extra pressure when stressing the engine is a good thing though. you want to make sure the oil is forced into the bearings and stuff.

Sol32 Community Regular

Sol32

Posted
Posted

Having used 3 types of oil since owning my GTR, including motul 4100 turbolight, motul 300v, and Neo platinum - all 10W40, i'd have to say the 300v came out on top. Pricy yes, but the car was alot smoother than either of the other 2.

Its only really pricy the first time you use it, because you need 2 bottles to put 6L into the motor (or so ive been told) so the next time you'll only need the 4L (1 bottle).

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Yes many factory race teams probly do use motul oils but 300v we can buy of the self not likely,

6 bar 3000 rpm is to high when the recommended pressure at 6000rpm is only 451 kpa ( 4.51 bar, 65 psi ) as per workshop manual ( page 39 - en-22 ),

the first engine spun number 6 big end which i'd put do to tight off camber corner and the oil pick up drying out but the second one was all 6 and mains and to me thats oil failure,

which was not my point to start with, the point is stock or near stock GTR street driven buy any oil thats full syn and it should be just fine

^^ that is lack of oil to a tee mate :)

frankxinyu Mentor

frankxinyu

Posted
Posted
motul 300V is good enough for many factory race cars including nismo. it's good enough for me. franky, i'm not sure why your engine didn't 'like' it, but I'd say it's some problem with the engine, not with the oil. I have now been running it for 3 years. oil pressure at 80degreesC at 3000rpm is 6 bar.

yeah as i said, i have to find out what was wrong with it by giving it another go.

i know for a fact though it is one of the best products money can buy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...