Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

can someone please tell me if the fuel warning light is supposed to come on when the ignition is first turned on. My fuel gauge is almost on empty, no warning light yet? Thinking the light may be blown or maybe i have a few liters to burn still.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16201-fuel-warning-light/
Share on other sites

Guest RedLineGTR

skylines take about 60 or so litres, if i'm wrong please correct me. gauge might be abit dodgy, depends if the cars on a flat surface. But with cars with injectors, your should still have fuel left in the tank so all that crud dosent get sucked up, those there is still a filter near the engine and fuel pump abit always gets through.

Originally posted by skyzerr33

mine gives a quick flash at 15litres left

then stays on solid with 10 litres left.

Thats correct !

You will know when you are getting really low (ie less than 5L's) coz the car will chug alittle harder when trying to start the engine after turning the key.

How many of you have changed your fuel filters in the last 6mths? Its a 15min job and costs less than $15 and you would be totally amazed at the gunk an old fuel filter will be full of.

when i first got my car - typical car dealership had no fuel in it - took it immediately to the service station to get fuel - cos i test drove it about 5 days beforehand and it was on empty then - it ate up $60 worth when i decided that was enough!! so at about 96 cents a litre im guessing that the tanks are about 65 litres?

My skyline has a little trouble responding to the ol' shake'n'click filling technique, compared to all my old cars where I could normally squeeze in a couple of extra litres... Perhaps because I can't shake the skyline and anything more than a stiff breeze would shake up the other cars like a roller coaster...

Is it really that bad to fill a car past the point of clicking?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...