Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i too was looking at a haltech interceptor unit but then i found that i could use an A'Pexi power FC as mine is a manual series2, A) it was cheaper than the haltech B)it was easy to install and tune(once i got the secret squirrel tweak) C) it has more data points for tuning so very flexible for all levels of tuning and finally D) i had a lot of trouble with supply of the haltech unit from my local distributor as he was very vague about how he would tune the car on a 2 wheel dyno.

as the stagea is not like some other cars where you can just yank a fuse out and its all good. doesn't work that easy and the end result could be horrendously expensive too!!!!!!

just my 2 cents

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162224-just-wondering/#findComment-3013461
Share on other sites

i too was looking at a haltech interceptor unit but then i found that i could use an A'Pexi power FC as mine is a manual series2, A) it was cheaper than the haltech B)it was easy to install and tune(once i got the secret squirrel tweak) C) it has more data points for tuning so very flexible for all levels of tuning and finally D) i had a lot of trouble with supply of the haltech unit from my local distributor as he was very vague about how he would tune the car on a 2 wheel dyno.

as the stagea is not like some other cars where you can just yank a fuse out and its all good. doesn't work that easy and the end result could be horrendously expensive too!!!!!!

just my 2 cents

How much is the Haltech?

S/hand R34 power FC are now approx $1200-1400

New, if you can get one are $1500-1800

Just remove the front drive shaft to tune in RWD

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162224-just-wondering/#findComment-3013620
Share on other sites

I'm using an SAFC and just (FINALLY) found and bought a apexi SITC (for timming control) of ebay from Japan this morning. Which should be here next week. Haven't actually had the car on the Dyno yet to properly tune the SAFC but its working pretty well so far (Had a wide band sensor at the time and did a quick street tune). I'm hoping once the SITC arrives and I'm installing my FMIC this weekend I'll get it on the dyno and get some good numbers but more importantly better fuel economy!!! The safc is very easy to use and any tuner should be able to work with it easially seeing as there are so many out there (if they can't I'd be finding another tuner). I would recomend though that you try and find an SITC as well so you can adjust and correct the timming seeing as the SAFC is a voltage bender your timming will be automatically affected. Do a search on the topic as SK has a similar setup (but for fuel he's using a Jaycar DFA which is the same thing really) in his stagea and has a pretty detailed write up about it all. Considering the ease of install and use I would definately recomend it for auto stagea users

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162224-just-wondering/#findComment-3013891
Share on other sites

SAFC-II

SITC

Z32 AFM

040 Bosch fuel pump

Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator

Slide highflow turbo

190rwkw with HuGeLy restrictive rear muffler.......... excellent fuel economy too. Hiflow muffler would net me another 20rwkw Im sure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162224-just-wondering/#findComment-3014737
Share on other sites

Jaycar EBC

Jaycar DFA

Apexi SITC

HKS SLD

Nismo cat back (very quiet)

Catco high flow cat

R34GTT SMIC

Pipercross panel filter

Feels like around 160 4wkw at the moment

Plus the following, after this weekend, since I have to remove it all to replace the cracked exhaust manifold

Performance Metalcraft split dump and engine pipe combo, Thermo wrapped of course

GCG Ball Bearing High Flow turbo, I have put the smaller compressor housing on it, as I want to make sure it looses nothing for towing.

Then a road tune by me, planning on running up to the max that the standard injectors, at standard pressure, can handle.

If I think it needs more power, then I will stick a bolt on Nismo FPR on it and turn up the fuel pressure.

That should test out the rumour that Stagea fuel pumps flow more that R33GTST fuel pumps.

The target always has been 200 4wkw (double what it had standard), so I will throw it on the dyno to confirm that the target has been achieved.

:rofl: cheers ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162224-just-wondering/#findComment-3015365
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...