Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its funny how much opinions differ. Im chasing the 300rwkw mark and when i talked to the guys at advan they said on stock internals no more than 270rwkw and the guys at croydon said i could run 300rwkw on stock internals all day long. :happy:

engines only as good as its tune

250kw is enuff for the street, your a p plater and you drive around with a 34 and custom number plates, keep it as stock looking as possible ie higflow..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162228-300rwkw/page/3/#findComment-3017169
Share on other sites

  • Replies 132
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

and were talking about the NEO rb25....i didnt think theyd need a collar like the early 32 GTRs

Yeah they do.

+ machining of the crank

+ getting it checked/testing it and so-on for wear etc etc

:D Its not far off, hence i just purchased a new crank. If you find your current one isnt so crash hot, then you've just done your dinner

I got charged $60.50 to check and polish my crank, $150 for the collar and $150 to machine and fit it. That's a long way off a new crank cost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162228-300rwkw/page/3/#findComment-3017337
Share on other sites

for the record 300rwkw as a goal in itself for no other reason is stupid. This thread is largely a pretty dumb one as a result.

anDru,

What do you want the car to do? Think of some performance capabillities for the car then work towards them. Be it a 1/4 mile time , circuit , drift or combination. Obviously if it's going to be driven on the road you need to keep that in mind too.

Maybe look at the whole setup and explain the goals you have overall, this will yeild reccomendations that will set you on the path to success in whatever pursuit the car is going to be put to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162228-300rwkw/page/3/#findComment-3017606
Share on other sites

Some rather weird injector numbers floating around these days... who the hell makes 525cc injectors for the NEO; or are they high-flowed from someone like Deutschworks?

Blitz apparently

$699 delivered

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=151895

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162228-300rwkw/page/3/#findComment-3017619
Share on other sites

engines only as good as its tune

250kw is enuff for the street, your a p plater and you drive around with a 34 and custom number plates, keep it as stock looking as possible ie higflow..

u got a good point their and i totally agree with you, but thats not really gonna stop me from getting 300kws, and im sort on money as it is, if i highflow, later on down the track ill have to buy ANOTHER turbo and manifords ect ect.

With you driving?

blitz ur not that funni :huh:

for the record 300rwkw as a goal in itself for no other reason is stupid. This thread is largely a pretty dumb one as a result.

anDru,

What do you want the car to do? Think of some performance capabillities for the car then work towards them. Be it a 1/4 mile time , circuit , drift or combination. Obviously if it's going to be driven on the road you need to keep that in mind too.

Maybe look at the whole setup and explain the goals you have overall, this will yeild reccomendations that will set you on the path to success in whatever pursuit the car is going to be put to.

i was gonna settle for 250 but 2 mates of mine just bought a Ford GT and the other a HSV Monaro, and they all pumpin 250 stock, i know its a stupid thing but i always wanted to reach a point where very lil have( i know there are lots but not as much as 250s, another reason why i got the r34 gtt instead of a 32/33gtr just wanna be unique, i also want my car featured in magz, dont think ill get anywhere with 250, theres alot more reasons but i cant think off the top of my head. i know all u older guys are over the whole show and shine crap but man being 18, im sure u know how i feel. but dont start thinkin im gonna be rockn up to noble park maccas and doing doies or anything, im not like dat

Edited by anDru
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162228-300rwkw/page/3/#findComment-3017921
Share on other sites

anDru, have you ever driven a car with anywhere near 300kw at the wheels?

This is a serious question and in all honesty 300rwkw for an 18 year old on his P's is an accident waiting to happen, no matter how good a driver you think you are.

Now before you attack the above post, understand that its for your own good

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162228-300rwkw/page/3/#findComment-3017941
Share on other sites

i also want my car featured in magz, dont think ill get anywhere with 250, theres alot more reasons but i cant think off the top of my head. i know all u older guys are over the whole show and shine crap but man being 18, im sure u know how i feel

Well, Magazines might look for a package car rather than a car with minimum 300rwkw. You need the whole stereo, rims, paint and kit to feature in a magazine. Sure big horsepower helps but its probably not the clincher.

I have 240rwkw out of my GTR at the moment and its beautifully easy to leave most cars at the light (I rarely accl hard from lights anyway). That said I have very minor mods and ceramic turbos so I am planning for more myself :huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162228-300rwkw/page/3/#findComment-3017962
Share on other sites

i was gonna settle for 250 but 2 mates of mine just bought a Ford GT and the other a HSV Monaro, and they all pumpin 250 stock, i know its a stupid thing but i always wanted to reach a point where very lil have( i know there are lots but not as much as 250s, another reason why i got the r34 gtt instead of a 32/33gtr just wanna be unique, i also want my car featured in magz, dont think ill get anywhere with 250, theres alot more reasons but i cant think off the top of my head. i know all u older guys are over the whole show and shine crap but man being 18, im sure u know how i feel. but dont start thinkin im gonna be rockn up to noble park maccas and doing doies or anything, im not like dat

those cars make near 200rwkw

a r34 with 220rwkw should be able to take them both down with no problems

im able to take down xr6 basic modified turbos with 190rwkw and was puling on him slowly

also taken down a 290 badged vx ss ute, the 6 litre which ever one it was, pulling on him slowly

you dont need 300rwkw, in fact you will probably loose with 300rwkw

youll have lots more lag and less average power, yoiull have a peaky 300rwkw

instead of a nice broad 250rwkw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162228-300rwkw/page/3/#findComment-3017966
Share on other sites

so kinda wank value then?

not for strip/drift/track use?

of course ill use it for drift track and strip use defiently!!!! but obviously it isnt the main thing i managed a 12.9 down the 1/4 and was very impressed :laugh:

anDru, have you ever driven a car with anywhere near 300kw at the wheels?

This is a serious question and in all honesty 300rwkw for an 18 year old on his P's is an accident waiting to happen, no matter how good a driver you think you are.

Now before you attack the above post, understand that its for your own good

no i havnt drivn a 300kw car but ive driven a 280kw. i know what your trying to say but ill handle it, many disagree but ill guess ill have to prove em wrong, when i signed up on this forum asking how much i could get a r34 gtt for, everyone laughed at me and said keep dreaming, well im here today with a r34 thats got over 220rwkw and im preety proud.

Blitz you are wasting your time.

Yeah a R34 GT-T, real unique that one, should have got a R33 GT-R.

u may think that but its still a 33 to me

Well, Magazines might look for a package car rather than a car with minimum 300rwkw. You need the whole stereo, rims, paint and kit to feature in a magazine. Sure big horsepower helps but its probably not the clincher.

I have 240rwkw out of my GTR at the moment and its beautifully easy to leave most cars at the light (I rarely accl hard from lights anyway). That said I have very minor mods and ceramic turbos so I am planning for more myself :huh:

ive actually got a 10grand sound system with full neon setup, wider guards, full Do Luck R34 GTR Body Kit, ive got Silver Volk GTC as rims, and this is why im aiming for my next step, big power.....im after the whole package

and uve got a GTR man 4WD man thats pwnage, thats another reason why i want the 300kw, just so keep up with the AWDs, i know ill slowly gain on them but, with the 18x10 tyres ive got now, it just makes everything that much better

those cars make near 200rwkw

a r34 with 220rwkw should be able to take them both down with no problems

im able to take down xr6 basic modified turbos with 190rwkw and was puling on him slowly

also taken down a 290 badged vx ss ute, the 6 litre which ever one it was, pulling on him slowly

you dont need 300rwkw, in fact you will probably loose with 300rwkw

youll have lots more lag and less average power, yoiull have a peaky 300rwkw

instead of a nice broad 250rwkw

you should research more a FOrd GT has over 290Kws at the flywheel and the HSV monaro has 297KW at the Flywheel, althoguh thats preety amazing you wasted all those cars congrats, respect :P but id be much happier with 300kw, i know what all u guys are saying but its a personal choice, and ai goal i wanna achieve. im glad to see alot of ppl are starting to take me a lil more seriously on this forum, its hard bein 18 with a r34 on a forum full of older enthusiasts :bunny:

Edited by anDru
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162228-300rwkw/page/3/#findComment-3018065
Share on other sites

you should research more a FOrd GT has over 290Kws at the flywheel and the HSV monaro has 297KW at the Flywheel, althoguh thats preety amazing you wasted all those cars congrats, respect :huh: but id be much happier with 300kw, i know what all u guys are saying but its a personal choice, and ai goal i wanna achieve. im glad to see alot of ppl are starting to take me a lil more seriously on this forum, its hard bein 18 with a r34 on a forum full of older enthusiasts :laugh:

If you are going to try and pull up Paulr33 I suggest you get your facts straight and stop dribbling shit.

He said the Ford and the HSV have around 200 rwkw - not flywheel kw.

Trying to pull up someone that unlike you, does know what they are talking about will only make you look the fool.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162228-300rwkw/page/3/#findComment-3018126
Share on other sites

u may think that but its still a 33 to me

GT-R and you're mixing power at the wheels and the fly which is just going to confuse things as there's obviously a big difference.

Where the heck are you getting all the money from?

Drugs, credit card fraud etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162228-300rwkw/page/3/#findComment-3018127
Share on other sites

If you are going to try and pull up Paulr33 I suggest you get your facts straight and stop dribbling shit.

He said the Ford and the HSV have around 200 rwkw - not flywheel kw.

Trying to pull up someone that unlike you, does know what they are talking about will only make you look the fool.

i know what he said but the FORD GT and MONARO is 297kws at the FLYWHEEL WHICH IS ABOUT 250 at the REAR WHEEL

GT-R and you're mixing power at the wheels and the fly which is just going to confuse things as there's obviously a big difference.

Drugs, credit card fraud etc.

its still a 33 mate like i said dont bother arguing, and like i said just above, 297 at the flywheel is aorund 250 at the rear wheels

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162228-300rwkw/page/3/#findComment-3018150
Share on other sites

i know what he said but the FORD GT and MONARO is 297kws at the FLYWHEEL WHICH IS ABOUT 250 at the REAR WHEEL

Ye, and with a 1700-1800kg body, a lighter car with 200-220rwkw and 1400kg's is going to deal a beating to it time and time again because weight is the enemy of power.

You can have as much power as you want. But when you tip the scales with another 300-400kgs, the extra power means dick all.

Is basic physics.

If you cant be faster than a Naro/GT with 220rwkw in your own car, then you cant drive, or you dont have 220rwkw (or a combination of the two) :huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162228-300rwkw/page/3/#findComment-3018158
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...