Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Having my 32GTR tuned today power fc and nismo AFM'S I brought of a member on here Tuner wasted ages trying to get the Nismo's to work set as vg30's in the powerfc tryed to use the correction tables etc supplied with the meters no go running lean as even at idle is there some sorta trick to make these work, Have I just been ripped off any one got any ideas will post up some more details after I pick up the car in the morning and have a chance to chat with him a bit more.

Frustrating with all the time trying to sort the Nismo AFM's and then retune with the stockers it took all day.

Is there any easy way to test these out with a multimeter or something pretty unhappy really.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162261-nismo-afms/
Share on other sites

The tuner should be able to tell you in a matter of mins if the AFM's are faulty.

I dont see why it should take half a day of stuffing around to realise this (or check them)

IMO it sounds like the guy might not know what he is doing at this stage

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162261-nismo-afms/#findComment-3013690
Share on other sites

Half a day May have been an ever so slight exaggeration on my part, Dont have a whole lotta choice in tuners where I am living, and as I only had a quick chat with his offsider (he was trying to get the car sorted) I will reserve my judgement till I chat to him personally in the morning.

Was just trying to get a bit of imput on what may be wrong and if there is anything we have missed in the basic setup, personally thought put in correction table, tune away easy as ? Not sure?

Roughly how long do you think it should take to setup/tune a power fc from scratch? It has only the normal light bolt on mods exhaust pods(soon to be replaced with a box damnit) boost controller highflowed turbos etc.?

Edited by noone
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162261-nismo-afms/#findComment-3013779
Share on other sites

I wouldn't have bothered switching afm unless you were maxing the old ones. even when maxed there is still a little leeway. basically anything under about 280rwkw and I would have just stuck with the stockers. 300rwkw + and I'd change to the nismos. they may be faulty, unfortunately that is the risk when buying second hand afms.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162261-nismo-afms/#findComment-3013865
Share on other sites

I have Nismo AFM's, in the box you would have got a peice of paper that shows the voltage curve diferences between the gtr, z32, and nismo AFM's.

You or your tuner will need to select the VQ30 option, and then edit the % on some voltage levels, i have a spreadsheet that shows the % settings to put in the PFC.

this is my peice of paper i got, i put the grid in, and the red lines are PFC voltage markers.

nismo_afm_ed.jpg

this it the spreadsheet that has the pfc % settings.

working_out.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162261-nismo-afms/#findComment-3014496
Share on other sites

just to note, changing the % corrections for each voltage range on the AFM option (which ever)

controls the load axis placement on the map, and not the actual voltage itself.

ie: if you dial in 80% at 1.0v you wont see 0.8v on the hand controller or under sensor sw check but on load axis it will 80% trim it to give you the final output on the load axis

just something i observed in my hunt for the load axis calculation which uses afm v * CONST / correction in the ljetro version

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162261-nismo-afms/#findComment-3014785
Share on other sites

it might not be the AFM, maybe your PFC. I had the same problem. I bought a new Z32 and it just kept on running lean. The guys from Bel Garage tried everything. They said this has only occured once previouly and I was the second customer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162261-nismo-afms/#findComment-3015347
Share on other sites

My understanding has always been that the Nismo 65 mm AFM’s are simply the standard GTR AFM bodies fitted with Z32 sensors. Hence the Z32 selection on the PFC AFM table is pretty damn close, in fact so close that it doesn’t affect the tuning process.

I haven’t tuned with Nismo AFM’s, but I have used standard GTR AFM bodies fitted with Z32 sensors and that’s what we did to do the tuning. It worked fine, the car ran perfectly and was as easy to tune as any other GTR with a PFC ie; simple and straight forward.

:rofl: cheers ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162261-nismo-afms/#findComment-3015442
Share on other sites

There diferent enough to be a pain in the arse. My tuner wiped my setting out the first time he tuned it, and he had to put a heap more fuel in with the temp settings to limp it back to his shop from the dyno. I put my settings back in, and it ran fine again.

Edited by sav man
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162261-nismo-afms/#findComment-3015468
Share on other sites

Yeah got the car back and for the fairly stockish state I was quite happy and picked up quite a bit with the PFC and still running stock AFM's

So I dont think there is anything wrong with the PFC and I had the graph and table thingo above, thanks, the tuner was given those when I took it in to tune and said he had tried those settings with no luck?

He amits he isnt sure whats going on with them and said that with even with heaps (200%) on the injector values he still couldn't even get it to idle without being lean as. He suggests not using em anyway and going with z32's when I need em but as I just fitted an ARC induction box I really dont wanna use 80mm AFM's as I would have to modify the box and this may not be possible due to the design of the box etc.

and I really like the box :laugh:

Kinda pissed off about it all there is 1 other tuner in town who i havnt used but have heard some good stuff about might even speak to him too.

Spoke via pm to the SAU member I brought them from and he assured me they were working for him when he tested em by doing the following

"i went into the menu in the power fc that allows you to advance timing and injector values accross the whole map (these are only temporary and are wiped as soon as the car is turned off) and put in about 130% or so.By doing that the car idled at 15:1 and was rediculously rich on boost (we had a wideband sensor installed to map the afr's.) "

Being a little new to the whole PFC thing I assume that this was along the lines of what My tuner had been trying only he ended up at 200% (as I stated above though probably using the wrong terminology)and still no go?

Not sure quite what to do ????

Am I wrong in thinking they could be checked with like a multimeter etc or no?

Spose it cant hurt to go have a chat to his opposition (the other tuner) and see what he thinks but thus far these guys have done okay by me so dont wanna seem to be backstabbing or anything, its a fairly small town and word gets around you know what I mean.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162261-nismo-afms/#findComment-3019492
Share on other sites

He amits he isnt sure whats going on with them and said that with even with heaps (200%) on the injector values he still couldn't even get it to idle without being lean as. He suggests not using em anyway and going with z32's when I need em but as I just fitted an ARC induction box I really dont wanna use 80mm AFM's as I would have to modify the box and this may not be possible due to the design of the box etc.

and I really like the box :laugh:

Have you tested them yet?

And why would you use Z32's? The Nismo's are the same thing, just fits the stock GTR piping.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162261-nismo-afms/#findComment-3019520
Share on other sites

Can anyone confirm SydneyKid's suggestion above (not meaning to doubt ya mate) and actually tried it with nismo AFM's looking at the graph above and gestimating (I cant read Japanese) which is which meter they do look awful close.

Does going to an 80mm AFM ieZ32 make alot a difference to flow or is that only going to be an issue with monsta power that I dont have and probly wont anytime soon.

The ARC induction box is so nice though :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162261-nismo-afms/#findComment-3019526
Share on other sites

Nismoid Actually not real sure HOW to test em, was thinking could try doing it temporary as quoted above from the guy I brought em off but dont have access to anythin to measure air fuel ratios?

Is there another way ie. multimeter etc. and yeah dont really wanna go Z32's thats why I brought the nismos to begin with seemed a much neater option then repipeing to suit Z32's

Edited by noone
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162261-nismo-afms/#findComment-3019540
Share on other sites

Okay for the help of others who like me ask questions without searching I found this thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...hl=testing++afm

Not the correct pinouts for an rb26dett ,at least I dont think

Will post them up too if I can find em, or if you know feel free to post!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162261-nismo-afms/#findComment-3027429
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...