Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Gearbox

Craney
 Share

Recommended Posts

Craney Contributor

Craney

Posted
Posted

Basically I've had a couple of friends tell me that the r34 gtt has a 5 speed version of the gtr's getrag gearbox, but i was under the impression that it was pretty much the same as the r33 25det gearbox (and some of the stuff i've read here points that wasy as well).

So...

1. Which actually is it?

2. Will the redline shockproof be okay for it.

3. Will it handle the 300 rwkw i plan to put through it (with a C's short shifter installed as well).

Also, if anyone can recommend a diff oil for the 34 gtt as well that would be good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162412-r34-gtt-gearbox/
Share on other sites
STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
Basically I've had a couple of friends tell me that the r34 gtt has a 5 speed version of the gtr's getrag gearbox, but i was under the impression that it was pretty much the same as the r33 25det gearbox (and some of the stuff i've read here points that wasy as well).

So...

1. Which actually is it?

2. Will the redline shockproof be okay for it.

3. Will it handle the 300 rwkw i plan to put through it (with a C's short shifter installed as well).

Also, if anyone can recommend a diff oil for the 34 gtt as well that would be good.

The R34GTT box is the same as the R33 GTST one, i use them in most conversions as they are low mileage and it gives a little more headroom in the punishment area. We run shockproof in our boxes also. car makes over 300rwkw. I hate short shifters though and refuse to use them, a GTR shifter with the metal ball end is my pick for an improvement.

I also hate pull clutches so i fit push type GTR bellhousings to the GTT boxes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162412-r34-gtt-gearbox/#findComment-3017596
Share on other sites
Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

The casing is much lighter than the R33 ones. I use lightweight shockproof in mine with 270rwkw no probs. Also my box had 200,000+ k's on it before it got into my car.

It has a small problem which I know others have had in that when shifting fast from 4th to 5th at redline (well at any revs really) you can put it into a no mans land between 3rd and 5th gears where it crunches badly. I have had to slow my changes there cos I don't want to blow the box.

Short answer, no nothing like the getrag from the R34 GTR, very much like the R33 GTST.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162412-r34-gtt-gearbox/#findComment-3026317
Share on other sites
STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
Can you swap an R34 GTT bellhousing with the R33 GTS-T one mated to the R34 gearbox so that it becomes a push type (just thinking of my rooted gearbox) (also have I got my theory right that this can be done)

yeah i hate pull clutches, so i fit push type housings all the time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162412-r34-gtt-gearbox/#findComment-3026423
Share on other sites
STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
How? Do you cut the bell housings off? How do you reconnect them?

nah they just unbolt, here is a SR20 box that i have removed the bellhousing. RB boxes are the same design.

post-34927-1175665106.jpg

Edited by URAS
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162412-r34-gtt-gearbox/#findComment-3028967
Share on other sites
Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

I have heard of the brand but never actually seen one in a vehcile. Or being used.

Obviously at idle with your foot off the clutch the only thing thats turning is the input shaft and lay shaft. The rest of the gear set should be unloaded and spinning on their needle rollers happliy.

I have found my Cross mission box to be getting a bit noisy despite being a helical cut set.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162412-r34-gtt-gearbox/#findComment-3034936
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...