Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i know it can be done without and hassle, its just getting the right tool that seems to be the problem.

i've got the cams out and the valve spring/retainers exposed. the tool i need is in america, and im extremely weary about sending my money to someone i cant find if they tried to screw me.

the tool i need is similar to this: http://www.autobarn.net/xxxw-sp-91400.html

and ive got no idea on where to get one in australia.

can anyone help me out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162663-doing-the-valve-stem-seals/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

They used to do one at a time it with a modified spark plug and an air compressor. Bore out the spark plug and braze in an air hose fitting. Attach the hose and away you go, 70-150 psi [depending on your comp size]. Not sure how you'd do it on a skyline, but on motorbikes you'd make up a tool that bolted to the camshaft journal/split mount holes and compress the springs, similar to the bucket and shim adjustment tool. The valves would stay closed from the air compressor.

I've seen the home made tooling, I've never seen it done.

You can buy the right tools anywhere. The problem is finding one that can be used on nissan OHC cylinder heads without fouling on the cam journals etc. Its fairly tight to work around, Ive adapted several tools to suit. Go buy one from a decent toolsupplier and make it work.

Thank sky30 his pic. :)

Keen to see how it goes.. I wish I didn't have to rip my head off to sort the oiling issues (restrictors).

ill keep this thread posted, with pics.

I assume you are using compressed air to keep the valves closed/up????

yeah ive bought a connector off ebay that screws into the spark plug hole. then the hose connection for the compressor screws into that, then the compressor hose onto that. it should be sweet.

i've also heard of another method called the indian rope method:

what you do is get around 170cm of plastic/nylon rope. shove it into the bores through the spark plug hole while at bottom dead centre, keeping some rope hanging out, then rotate the motor close to top dead centre when you start to feel the motor get a bit tight to turn. apparently its common practice in alot of places. although air pressure sounds like a safer option to me!

Yes, no messy fibres or dust. Thinking as I go here, you could use something like 4mm plastic hose though, the kind they use for drip lines in gardens etc. Not as messy then??

But I'd go compressed air still.

i cleaned up the valve spring compressor i made a bit, i made a T piece out of some scrap metal i had laying around and got it welded at my exhaust place for $5.

im happy with it now. it works well. as soon as the fittings for the compressor get here ill be doing them straight away.

here are some pics for anyone who wants to make one themselves:

post-13452-1175586860.jpg post-13452-1175586853.jpg post-13452-1175586840.jpg

I'll borrow one of my old mans sidchrome long reach sockets. :)

lol.. When I was a young lad I chopped up and bent a heap of his sidchrome spanners as I had trouble removing a few bolts. I wasn't allowed in the shed for quite some time. :S

I'll borrow one of my old mans sidchrome long reach sockets. :)

lol.. When I was a young lad I chopped up and bent a heap of his sidchrome spanners as I had trouble removing a few bolts. I wasn't allowed in the shed for quite some time. :S

BAHHAHAHAHAH thats gold

I'll borrow one of my old mans sidchrome long reach sockets. :O

lol.. When I was a young lad I chopped up and bent a heap of his sidchrome spanners as I had trouble removing a few bolts. I wasn't allowed in the shed for quite some time. :S

im still not allowed in my old mans shed :huh:

time for an update.

i did 4 of them today, ill do the other 20 tomorrow. getting the collects to go in where you want them to is an ugly job at first, but you get the hand of it. the first 2 went in after 20mins of stuffing around then the last 2 went in straight away after figuring it out. you've pretty much got to move the retainer so the valve comes up dead centre between the collects, let one of them drop into place, then hold the other one tight and push the valve spring compressor all the way down till its got space to move in.

its alot easier than it sounds.

bugger that for a joke. Good that it works but how did you go about pressure testing the system?

Not too bad if you do the job for your own vehicle but it sucks now because I've had three people ask me to change their valve springs and seals over without removing the head. What's your email so I can send 'em your way lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...