Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil and sparkplugs for RB25DET?


Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
Originally posted by Sydneykid

Sorry Dennis, that wasn't me, it was Zahos.  We use NGK BCPR7ES-11 gapped at 0.9 mm in the race GTST.  When it starts missing I spend $18 and buy a new set.  The road car gets PFR5A-11's gapped at 1 mm.   I've not had any problems with this combo and they are cheap enough, so never bothered trying anything else.

Hope that helps.

What do you know the same plug and gap as me!

BCPR7ES-11's gapped to 0.9mm.

I still haven't fully tuned the plug side yet.

The Rule of thumb for NGK plugs I use and many others.

PART 1.

5's for 5,000rpm

6's for 6,000rpm

7's for 7,000rpm

8's for 8,000rpm

9's for 9,000rpm

(Where the rpm is the peak horsepower range of the engine or the peak rpms most commonly used).

PART 2.

Aim for a generous gap when aiming for good peak power.

6's may work at 8,000rpm (If this is where your peak power ought to be) if you close the gap enough. They certainly won't work as well as 8's with a decent gap. The trade off being that 8's won't tollerate around town driving as well unless you give it 8,000rpm around every corner.

It's a basic rule of thumb and not perfect.

For those interested on my opinion of the platinum and iridium plugs; both are better than copper. Only in reliable spark and not in power production (not enough to notice). Get the plug setup wrong and you have to turf them anyway... better a cheap ass copper set than expensive iridiums.

my 2c

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I knew you lurked here ...<grin>... the SMF stuff I'm not terribly concerned about (but should be updated), it's primarily the mediawiki software I've wanted updated...for years now, since Session gave me access there and I was looking to clean it up (consistency wrt presentation)...and I couldn't get that to work properly, which I found out by cloning the wiki and setting it up under the latest mediawiki release, was because it's the actual version of the MediaWiki  being used causing all the problems wrt presentation....grrr. Then of course, the image repository which the wiki is tied to, has whacky permissions linking back to the forum SMF software DB, and because I don't have admin/mod privileges there, there's a number of things I can't do within the wiki...like...ie; fix/include images for the wiki....grrrrr....  😃 AFAIK, only wheezy has been maintaining this stuff, (he knows all about the above para), but life gets in the way (kids, vocation)...and like, now he's bought a sea-going vessel, so 'gone fishing' springs to mind B^) You have a knack for understatement ...lol...
    • I'll grab it, can ya post to 4850? let me know how much.
    • I try to play a couple times a week, but yeah life man, stops you from gaming all the time  
    • I drove back-to back a B250 (i think it was 2015-2016) and my 2015 BMW 225i Active Tourer. $10k cheaper than the hatches, so got more interior space and top spec, loads of power for FWD etc. B-class = felt real cheap inside, gearbox was weird. So insta-bought the BMW because it was nicer to drive (torque converter auto) and interior was nicer. Not bad for $20k just as COVID lockdown hit (cheaper than any Japanese/Korean hatch weirdly, although a couple years older). Thankfully mine only beeps when it detects cars (no active assists), the "driver assists" are never good (makes sense when you're busy staring at your phone while you drive I suppose). tl;dr- B-series and Active Tourer are underrated (basically GLB/X1 without the extra bulk). Apologies for the rant.
    • R33 Skyline chassis manual in english hard to find $60 Mike 0422192668
×
×
  • Create New...