Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya guys, I'm new around here but have been on PGA for a few years and recently as the Tech section moderator. I am in the process of getting an R34 and going into the Skyline world.

I saw this section and thought I would chuck up some pics of what I do on my weekends for extra cash!

I turbocharged my N/A N16 from scratch ( I did everything except tune it):

Manifold:

th_P1000235.jpg

th_P1000234.jpg

th_P1000233.jpg

Dump pipe:

th_P1000412.jpg

th_P1000414.jpg

Exhaust:

th_P1000473.jpg

th_P1000474.jpg

Catch can:

th_P1010738.jpg

th_P1010737.jpg

Completed engine bay with 3" air intake, custom BOV etc:

th_P1010742.jpg

th_P1010741.jpg

Here's a GT Starlet I recently did (Pipework, not the bodykit! :) )

th_P1010735.jpg

th_P1010733.jpg

th_P1010732.jpg

th_P1010731.jpg

th_P1010730.jpg

th_P1010729.jpg

th_P1010728.jpg

th_P1010727.jpg

I have done many other cars and miscellaneous bits'n'pieces, but these are a few I have pics of.

Hope you enjoy and I look forward to chatting some.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163140-some-of-my-fabrication-work/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Sorry guys I haven't been on of late, been rather busy!

I am busy up until Jamboree, I could look at doing something for you guys after that. PM me and we can tee up some times to see what needs doing.

Rob.

  • 5 weeks later...
awesome work man

very impressed

btw jsut out of curiosity

was all the piping purge welded?

Nah mate, I haven't got all the right pipe bungs at the moment, but the inside bead is still tidy and not much bubbling. I use quite low current to help avoid that, but keeping the weld deep enough to be strong.

Nah mate, I haven't got all the right pipe bungs at the moment, but the inside bead is still tidy and not much bubbling. I use quite low current to help avoid that, but keeping the weld deep enough to be strong.

Do you have a spare length of air line and a Y piece?

If you do, connect the Y piece to the regulator, and run your air line to the welder as normal. Then connect your spare air line to the other branch of the Y piece. Hopefully you'll have a couple of used cut-off/grinding wheels lying round, drill the center out of one so the end of your spare air line fits snugly inside and then seal it with some electrical tape. You can then use masking tape (doesn't leave so much sticky mess) to fix the wheel to one end of the pipe your purging, making sure you get a reasonable seal. Then do the same with another spare wheel at the other end of the pipe, using the masking tape to seal up the hole in the wheel also, but poke a couple of hole through the tape with the end of your welding wire, this means you get a little bit off flow in the gas which dissapates any oxygen, and evacuates the heated gas.

The only downside with using a Y piece is you might loose a bit of flow/pressure to the welder, so just ramp up the flow on the regulator a little. The best way of course, is to use a twin regulator (which you might already be doing).

And if you knew all that already, my bad and no offence intended, but someone else might not know...

lol! I did actually know all that, but its useful information of course to anyone who doesn't know what purge welding is.

No offense taken at all! :thumbsup:

Do you have a spare length of air line and a Y piece?

If you do, connect the Y piece to the regulator, and run your air line to the welder as normal. Then connect your spare air line to the other branch of the Y piece. Hopefully you'll have a couple of used cut-off/grinding wheels lying round, drill the center out of one so the end of your spare air line fits snugly inside and then seal it with some electrical tape. You can then use masking tape (doesn't leave so much sticky mess) to fix the wheel to one end of the pipe your purging, making sure you get a reasonable seal. Then do the same with another spare wheel at the other end of the pipe, using the masking tape to seal up the hole in the wheel also, but poke a couple of hole through the tape with the end of your welding wire, this means you get a little bit off flow in the gas which dissapates any oxygen, and evacuates the heated gas.

The only downside with using a Y piece is you might loose a bit of flow/pressure to the welder, so just ramp up the flow on the regulator a little. The best way of course, is to use a twin regulator (which you might already be doing).

And if you knew all that already, my bad and no offence intended, but someone else might not know...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...