Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just trying to figure out which of these tyres would be best for me. I will be taking my car to a few track days so i would like the tyres to be not too bad on the track aswell.

The tyres i have in mind are Toyo T1-R's, Dunlop SP9000, Bridgestone S03, and Hankook R-S2 Z212.

Im currently running some crappy WANLI tyres which i need to change.

They will be going on 17x9 VOLKS and the tyre size i want is 235/45/17.

Also, before anyone asks i have read the tyre thread where people have rated the tyres.

Mike.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163260-which-tyres/
Share on other sites

I can't offer an opinion as to which tyres are best on the track, but I can give you a bit of an idea of what to look for:

1. Stiff sidewalls. You will get more body roll on a street tyre than on an R compound tyre. Stiff sidewalls help prevent this.

2. Fewer circumferential grooves in the tyre. Basically the tread blocks will chunk on the tyres if you are having a good go on the track. They tear away from the outside of any tread blocks. Therefor the fewer "outsides" you have the bettter off you will be.

3. Don't worry so much about compounds. But nonetheless the hardness of the treadface is an indicator. You tend to damage them more by chunking them than by wearing them.

Not to put too fine a point on it road tyres are a bit of a disaster on the track. You will have much more fun if the budget can stretch to a proper R compound. or even some of the less sticky half house measures like the Falkens which feel ok but don't deliver the lap times.

Lastly if you are going to the track get yourself a good pressure gauge (Not a ghey one from Supercheap or wherever) & a pyrometer. By measuring the tread temperature at three points across the face of the tyre you can determine the correct pressure by ensuring the difference between the outside & the middle measurement is the same as the difference between the inside & the middle. You won't get all three the same on a road car simply because it wont have enough -ve camber.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163260-which-tyres/#findComment-3031294
Share on other sites

i run potenza G3 (set down from S03), and i have done a few track days (mc/drag and drift) and found them to grip great althou once they were getting low on tread and started to heat up i could easily spin them up (found this out from a drift day, i spun out so i keep my foot on the gas smoke it up hard then for the rest of my laps the tires lost afair bit of grip).

i will most likely upgrading to the S03 when these one die as they dont make anything bigger than 235 in g3 :P

cheers michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163260-which-tyres/#findComment-3031586
Share on other sites

Unless you dont drive your car often, or its making spactic amounts of power you dont really want R compound tyres, they are expencive normally noisy, wear quickly, and some of the tread patterns they come in arent all that great in the wet.

So for road tyres Id go with the Dunlop Sport Maxx, which is the replacement to the SP9000s. I've got the SP9000s on the front of the car, and the Sport Maxx on the rear. With about 155rwkw, and a 2 way diff in the wet I cant spin 2nd gear unless I clutch dump in the revs. They are a good road tyre.

For track days thats where you buy a cheap set of rims (heaps about) and get the good tyres on them. So you only use them when you need to.

That said, if your filthy rich, got spastic amounts of power, and or dont drive the car that often, just go R compound :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163260-which-tyres/#findComment-3033636
Share on other sites

I run toyo t1rs on the front..

Before this i was using advan ad07s all round.. However the fronts didnt have much thread left.. BUT i loved the rubbers.. Grip was still supurb

Anyways if you can afford ad07s then go for them.. Trust me.. But will be over 400 each :sick:

Still runnin the advan ad07s on the rear and love them..

Anyways back to toyo t1rs.. They grip well and the thread is lasting for ages..

Im actually going on a track day in a months time.. So i will test out the t1rs ..

But to be honest, get your suspension gear all done!! Sway bars, good shocks and springs, castor rods etc etc.. This will help a lot more around the track..

But if you had to choose out of the list you have given us, then i would go for the t1rs.. Well priced and grip well!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163260-which-tyres/#findComment-3034090
Share on other sites

I run toyo t1rs on the front..

Before this i was using advan ad07s all round.. However the fronts didnt have much thread left.. BUT i loved the rubbers.. Grip was still supurb

Anyways if you can afford ad07s then go for them.. Trust me.. But will be over 400 each :sick:

Still runnin the advan ad07s on the rear and love them..

Anyways back to toyo t1rs.. They grip well and the thread is lasting for ages..

Im actually going on a track day in a months time.. So i will test out the t1rs ..

But to be honest, get your suspension gear all done!! Sway bars, good shocks and springs, castor rods etc etc.. This will help a lot more around the track..

But if you had to choose out of the list you have given us, then i would go for the t1rs.. Well priced and grip well!!

Hey mate, thanks for the reply. I have already got the full whiteline/bilstein kit in the car so that area is ok. A few people have mentioned that the sidewalls on the T1-Rs are very soft and weak. Do yours feel like this?

Also, has anyone tried the new HANKOOK R-S2 Z212's? Ive been looking at them and they look pretty good.

Mike.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163260-which-tyres/#findComment-3034144
Share on other sites

try reading wheels (motor?) magazine latest edition they've just done a tyre test. don't have mine anymore otherwise i'd quote results. when you look at the rankings you'll see there is really stuff all between them. you could argue that a tyre that stops more quickly than another is worth getting even at extra $ but then you might also find that tyre has less dry cornering grip; theyre all a compromise to some extent.

not as much of an upset as last time when the Maxxis Victra was found to be very competitive overall at significantly less $, bt interesting anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163260-which-tyres/#findComment-3035750
Share on other sites

i have S02's on the front on my 32 and GIII's on the back the the S02's are absolutly amazing!! i can have the ass hanging out facing the gutter and bring it back and there still hanging on up front i can believe how good they grip im yet too find the edge of them, so i cant imagine how good the S03's would be im getting them next ill put S02's on the back and S03's up front.

what i can tell you when i was a bridgy gettin my s02's on there was a club sport in there gettin S03's all round and they broke there good machine that puts the tyres of the rim bcoz there side walls are so tough.... so luckily the pried them on with the shit machine!!

S03's FOR THE WIN!!!!! :)

good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163260-which-tyres/#findComment-3036176
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...