Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI guys

I have a Serie 1.5 R33 GTST, and ever since i installed the new clutch, i have notice the backlash in the diff bad, due to the harshnes of the clutch.

Can somone point me to how, or if it is possible, to adjust the backlash on the diff?

I have read the DIY's but there is nothing there.

Do i need to take the whole diff out? Or can it be done on the car?

Any help would be greatly appriciated.

Edited by WogsRus

I can do all that, i race all the time, not in that car.

What i am refearing to is driving slowly through town, in second, when off/on gas, you can feel the backlash in the diff, the slack in the pinion and backlash.

That is what i want to cure.

diff bushes, where are they, do you mean the pinaples or something else. The diff doesn't wine at all, not a bit.

Basically if move the drive shaft, the diff stangs still, and you can rotate the shaft 0.5-1cm before it meets any resistance. It's not in the drive shafts as far as i can tell.

So i am wandering if there is any way to fix this.

From my fiddlings I've noticed 2 sorts of 'slack' that feel similiar to backlash in the VLSD's.

There's backlash its self.. Which whines like crap and then there's slack inside the diff center.

Then there's the slackness that comes from the diffs spider gear to center engagement.

When removing the spider gears there's (from memory) 4 or 5 lugs that lock in to the diff center that provides drive to the half shaft splines. From what I've seen these can be a tad sloppy and cause a slack ness of sorts.

With the diff out of the car and backing plate off; turn the half shafts, you can feel/see the slackness within the center as the axles move yet the diff center doesn't. You can also hear the slackness coming from the diff spider gear engagements. Now turn the input (tail shaft) and you will see there's no backlash. Hold the half shafts while turning the input and again you'll see there's no backlash but slackness 'inside' the vlsd center.

TO4GTR is right.. From what I've seen excessive backlash does = a noisy diff.

the bushes are on the rear diff cover in the subframe. 2 round ones just above the hicas rack.

easy way to tell is under power lift off the throttle and it should thud from the back.

mine were that gonbe that i didnt have to undo the botlts at all. it just dropped out lol

  • 1 year later...

well does anyone have a solution for the actual whining backlash ?

i have this and need it fixed if possible if someone could guide me along :laugh:

cheers

Looks likea reshim is required from my internets searching - this sound correct?

You would be correct :D

There is a shim either side of the center. You put a thinner one on one side and a thicker one on the other.

The measurements part i don't know which is why mine will go to a specialist one day soon to be done.

  • 4 years later...

Revived this thread to see if anyone has some answers to my question.

I have an r33 S1 and my diff has been making a thud and squeek as you throttle on and throttle off. I jacked the car up and the tail shaft has the same thing with about 1cm or so of play.

When moving the tail shaft you can actually see the parts move coming out of the diff to each wheel. This is with the handbrake on

I pulled my diff out and now am trying to work out what I should actually be doing with it.

Someone has quoted me $150 + a case of jimmy to do a rebuild but im waiting on details from him to actually know what his rebuild involves

Any help would be appreciated

  • 2 weeks later...

Revived this thread to see if anyone has some answers to my question.

I have an r33 S1 and my diff has been making a thud and squeek as you throttle on and throttle off. I jacked the car up and the tail shaft has the same thing with about 1cm or so of play.

When moving the tail shaft you can actually see the parts move coming out of the diff to each wheel. This is with the handbrake on

I pulled my diff out and now am trying to work out what I should actually be doing with it.

Someone has quoted me $150 + a case of jimmy to do a rebuild but im waiting on details from him to actually know what his rebuild involves

Any help would be appreciated

those are the cv shafts.

with the hanbrake on, you should get very little movement from them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...