Jump to content
SAU Community

Q45 Afm Install ?

evil_gts25t
 Share

Recommended Posts

evil_gts25t Apprentice

evil_gts25t

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey,guys, bought a q45 afm, want to install in r33 s1 rb25det, any1 done that b4 ? does pfc or safc 2 have q45 to select ?

will post up the wiring picture if needed

i just check out the wiring on the q45 afm, it has

black/white = ???

black= ???

white= ????

i havent check out my s1 r33 afm, are they 3 wire too ????

cheers

Edited by evil_gts25t
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163532-q45-afm-install/
Share on other sites
evil_gts25t Apprentice

evil_gts25t

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i was going to use z32 afm but a bit hard to find a good conditon one so, i bought my for $100 brand new with factory package, the dude bought for his project and then run into big shit dept so i bought it from him , duno have i just ripped him off or help him out ?

hks spec r intercooler kit'

greddy plenum

660cc injector

Garrett gt3540R 0.68

arc cold air box

sard fpr

bosch 044 fuel pump

aftermarket manifold

apexi n1 full exhaust

blitz aluminium radiator

splitfire coilpack

using hks f-con sz with hks evc 5

apprently car is not running quite right, bit rich and power doesnt really come up coz of the f-con was tuned for standard turbo injector except for exhaust ,intercooler and intake

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163532-q45-afm-install/#findComment-3034982
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

the q45 afm is 90mm or about 3.5" so it wont mate up to anything stock

the pod adapter has to change as to does the turbo ducting.

the wiring is fairly simple, 3 wires its on my site paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com (when its fixed)

z32 is direct swap as its same bolt patter and 80mm so same size as stock rb20/rb25 afm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163532-q45-afm-install/#findComment-3123451
Share on other sites
dangerman4 Mentor

dangerman4

Posted
Posted
i was going to use z32 afm but a bit hard to find a good conditon one so, i bought my for $100 brand new with factory package, the dude bought for his project and then run into big shit dept so i bought it from him , duno have i just ripped him off or help him out ?

hks spec r intercooler kit'

greddy plenum

660cc injector

Garrett gt3540R 0.68

arc cold air box

sard fpr

bosch 044 fuel pump

aftermarket manifold

apexi n1 full exhaust

blitz aluminium radiator

splitfire coilpack

using hks f-con sz with hks evc 5

apprently car is not running quite right, bit rich and power doesnt really come up coz of the f-con was tuned for standard turbo injector except for exhaust ,intercooler and intake

the new q45 AFM have 4 wires so the one you have is just the plain old 3 wire q45.

Sorry to burst your bubble but its not brand new unless its been sitting around for years.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163532-q45-afm-install/#findComment-3125073
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • drifter17a
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By drifter17a · Posted

      So now doing the change and first time dealing with rb so little nervous giving engine power and potential for screwing it up When you align all marks and then remove crank bolt, timing move little I assume you can put the bolt back in once you have removed the pully to get timing to where you want?   here is pic of my both intake and exchust cam aligned, depending on angle you look they seem to be either aligned or a half tooth or so out. Any thoughts? Should you angle your face and look at each mark that way as if looking straight rather than from above as it can be misleading   <a href="https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HfWrGR9b/IMG-4447.jpg" alt="IMG-4447" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/JWBqWwr1/IMG-4445.jpg" alt="IMG-4445" border="0"></a>   https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q
    • sunsetR33
      braided lines for the turbos

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 1: I did some work on the car already before finalizing this post and my "issues" list. I dropped the Tomei exhaust in favor of the HKS Hi Power Silent. Sounds nice and I can actually hear myself think now. Also gives me a realistic chance to legally drive without silencer inserts. A bit of cheating was necessary to still be able to mount the Top Secret style diffuser. Some malusage of washers and a bit of "convincing" toward the brackets and exhaust hanger seemed to do the trick. The shaky steering wheel has been resolved as various suspension components were worn, like sway bar bushings and link bars. Most notably the two steering tie rod ends. Had some trouble finding bushings because my sway bars are not OEM thickness, 23.x up front and 27 rear. But non adjustable, so no aftermarket I suppose. Maybe they are nismo units? Turbo oil drain hoses were definitely still the originals and are new now. Wasn't the cause of the turbo oil leak sadly. Currently removing the rear turbo because of it, I suspect the braided oil feed line is the culprit. This issue needs to be dealt with so I can work towards actually getting the turbo setup legal and inspected. Two new issues to add to the list as well. Rear Main seal is probably leaking. Time will show how bad it is, I don't really want to drop the gearbox right now just for the stupid seal. Could fix a few other things in one go once I do that. Front right driveshaft grease is going past the cv boot, so at some point I'll fix that too.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok so no 4cyl clutch... Yeah it is a factory manual. So if iam correct i need clutch and flywheel too? I can use something that suits something like R32 GTST?   EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224291042776 Is this ok?   EDIT2: i maybe forget to mention this(dk how important it is) but the trans will be behind RB25DET NEO(iam doing swap) It will be there for a little while. Iam planing to do bigbox or BMW tranny..
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      You're probably right about that one. Thanks for your suggestions, I hope I don't need a new 3rd brake light. Although wiring issues might arguably be worse. Right now I'm in the midst of a turbo removal because of my oil leak, other problems are going to have to wait for now.
×
×
  • Create New...