Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Been playing and wanted something different for my car so decided to do an LED conversion on my R33 Rear Lights.

It's something I started as a hobby as can be seen on gtr.co.uk - although it's turned into a group buy in the UK.

Just thought I'd share my results and ask for a little feedback on the conversion - It's meant to be a little Z-Tune-ish style.

It may sound strange but there are over 800 LED's in total across the back of the car!

Anyway, opinions?

th_R33_LED_Rear_Lights.jpg

Oh, almost forgot, there is a Fog Lamp on the outside of each Reverse Lamp which wasn't wired up when the Vid was taken hence why there only appears to be a small Reverse Lamp.

Cheers,

Matt.

Edited by Matt J
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164013-r33-led-tail-lights/
Share on other sites

i cant see any difference? oh its a video... dont mind me :P

i was thinking about getting some LED rear lights and swapping about 10% of the Red LED's for blue ones to give it a unique tinge... i might still do that... have those ones on a switch though, as police around here are nasty...

im thinking about doing what you did with the front lights too :(

yeah im a big fan of it... how much did the lights cost you in the end?

im thinking of getting some BMW ones with angel eyes but i think they are a bit big for the skyline headlight...

The headlights cost me about £500 in parts as they are 2 sets of Bi-Xenon projectors etc.

The BMW Bi-Xenon units don't fit as the solenoid is too large.

I found the Audi units fit with no problems...

IMG_1062small.jpg

IMG_0798.jpg

IMG_0799.jpg

IMG_0800.jpg

thats so hot ;)

wanna...... give em to me??? :)

or give me some info as to how to do it? and do those have angel eyes?

Developing the brackets that use the original mounts was the hardest part - they took a while and a bit of head scratching to get right.

Using the original mounts means the beams can be adjusted as per the standard headlights.

They don't have angel eyes, I do have 2 sets which I was going to install but they aren't to my personal taste really.

The conversion is actually very simple once you have all the parts and they took me about 4 or 5 hours from start to finish.

The main fuse has to be uprated from 10 or 20 Amps (Can't remember off the top of my head) to 30 Amps as the start-up draw current is quite high having twin sets.

Matt.

i so wanna have a go at something like this... but i dont really have the cash flow for it at the moment... or a spare set of headlights :P

either way, the modification bug has been biting me really hard lately... i have to do something original (or rare) or im gunna die!

ill try and find out prices for headlights like these, but im sure i won't be able to afford it for a while... too much other stuff going on :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...