Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just did the fuel pump on my series 1 r33. I did not see a rubber ring which i expected to find somewhere. I assum it sits between the black screw off ring and the white Plug underneath it which has the fuel lines and connectors on it?

Should there have been a rubber ring here.

The only rubber was the seal that sat around the inside of the hole. I just tightened the black screw on\off ring down and the fuel system seems to pressurise fine..

Another pump i've heard is really good is the Nippon Denso High Flow Fuel Pump, i've searched everywhere for one and manged only to find Tweakit.net who are very very over priced, also a workshop in melbourne Chasers sell them around $300 i think... apparently the tomei and HKS pumps are based on this denso pump (not 100% sure)

This is the link to the pump, not sure if anyones used them but apparently they hold big HP and are direct fit (not like tomei)

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...roducts_id=5056

I just did the fuel pump on my series 1 r33. I did not see a rubber ring which i expected to find somewhere. I assum it sits between the black screw off ring and the white Plug underneath it which has the fuel lines and connectors on it?

Should there have been a rubber ring here.

The only rubber was the seal that sat around the inside of the hole. I just tightened the black screw on\off ring down and the fuel system seems to pressurise fine..

It's the rubber seal that sat around the edge of the hole when you removed the white plastic unit.

1st time i took mine apart, mine didn't move so i didin't see what the big deal was.

....2nd time (1 hr later as car wouldn't start :D ) it popped out with the plastic unit.

Went back in ok though.

Cheers man,

I was visualising a big O-Ring like seal somewhere. Mine is correct then.. :D.

Another thing, If I mounted a walbro pump in the same position on the bracket as the stock pump, will i still be able to drive the tank down till the fuel light comes on.

I noticed the walbro filter\pickup is only about 1/3rd the size of the original and sits at right angle to the pump which makes it hard to get it to face down deeper into the tank when pushin the pump back into position. I am pretty sure i got it facing down the right way.

Just FYI I am slightly under 1/8 of a tank on the stock gauge and still going. I am planning to drive it down as far as possible, Hoping to see the fuel light, this will confirm how far u can drive your fuel down using the walbro pump and filter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...