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offnsv: have you got a part number for those injectors? thanks

ill stick with the nismo pump option then since i can do it myself lol.

can someone explain the difference between poncams and cams? or are they the same thing?..

if i could save money on just using cam gears to hit my power level it would be better for me as i could get some rims.. LOL

'Poncams' are simply a model of camshaft produced by Tomei which are designed as a straight drop in upgrade on a stock RB26 head with no modifications required.

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offnsv: have you got a part number for those injectors? thanks

ill stick with the nismo pump option then since i can do it myself lol.

can someone explain the difference between poncams and cams? or are they the same thing?..

if i could save money on just using cam gears to hit my power level it would be better for me as i could get some rims.. LOL

the part number on the box was 63500 700cc

with the tomei poncams. im searching them now there is 2 types:

Type A - 260/252 9.15mm

Type B - 260/260 9.15mm

which is the one im after?. im after response.

ive already purchased cam gears from the Arospeed group buy, so i can just get the poncams on its own?. or is it needed to have the specific tomei cam gears with it?

shopping list going to begin in a week or 2 :santa: ive decided im just going do everything right once:

- apexi power fc + hc

- nismo fuel pump

- sard 700cc injectors

- tomei pon cam (type A/B)

- Arospeed cam gears.

that should keep me happy for the rest of my ownership of the R :thumbsup:

Power FC --- good idea.

Sard 700cc injectors do bolt in, it's easy enough.

A factory GTR pump direct wired does the job but, a new one isn't a bad idea.

CAMS...

If you are going to do cams, budget for some dyno time to get them right. Also buy new cam bolts , necessary gaskets,

AND be ready to buy shims. Tomei cams are as bolt in as you get for a GTR but, worn shims on an old motor mean clearences might not be within factory range. You can get lucky, I was and so have a few others (then again I'm not sure if they checked the clearences) but, don't count on it. Shims can cost you a few bob if you end up needing them. Only down side to solid cams.

Those cam gears will work with the tomei cams. I would consider the 260/256 setup for your goals and try and tune the power to reach the 300rwkw with the least amount of rpm and boost. The twin 260's will give you extra in the higher rpm but, you don't want an old motor working up in those rpm ranges to make more power than the old bearings are going to be happy with.

Go the 'Poncam Type A' The 256 with the same lift will grant you enough overlap range to play with for really strong power under 7,000rpm (this is the area to spend your money on).For the first tune, I'd tell your tuner to lop off the power at 280rwkw and focus the tune on squeezing power out of the mid range , bringing it in earlier and trying to reach it with as little boost and rpm possible. It takes a strong will but, make it clear you don't want more power than ' x' but, more mid range and earlier power 'on'. The tuner will be most likely happy not to tune another hand grenade and you will probably drive off with a faster and more reliable car. Getting the extra 20rwkw is a walk in the park by comparison , usually a very small amount of tuning time. I'd drive the car with the 280rwkw for a little while and then go back when you have money to rebuild your old engine.

Don't forget to do your suspension. It makes traction and a lower ET easier too.

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