Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

I'm just wondering who with r34s on here have experienced bad coils? I've searched around and found problems with a missfire in the 4000 to 4500rpm on turbo cars but what do NA symptoms have? how can u tell its a coil and not a plug without physically inspecting it? reason I ask is mine is running like a dog (sounds like a WRX) and there is a lot of stuff to unplug to get to the cam valley to check.

so any help on what the symptoms are would be great I suspect its a coil but need some reassurance.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164961-bad-coils/
Share on other sites

NA's with bad coils experience the same problems as their turbo counterparts. My last car was a ca18de and i went through about 12 coils on it. Car feels like it's missing a cylinder and sounds like a wrx but without any pull. There's a few threads on coil maintenance and cleaning, check them out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164961-bad-coils/#findComment-3056087
Share on other sites

Also can anyone tell me it is a coil from my symptoms?

Cold start is fine will drive around OK for a long time or short time its totally random. Engine light comes on car sounds like a WRX has poor accelertation etc. But when it is driving OK it does have a miss as well?

Any help would be great

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164961-bad-coils/#findComment-3056886
Share on other sites

Cold start is fine will drive around OK for a long time or short time its totally random.

Engine light comes on car sounds like a WRX has poor accelertation etc. But when it is driving OK it does have a miss as well?

Generally speaking, nissan coils generally get worse when they're hot. On my previous car, when the coils were bad they would generally be okay for about 30 minutes then it would sputter and the engine light would flicker as you say.

How many kms has your car done? has it ever had the coils replaced? I would definately give it a good clean, take out the carbon deposits on the tip perhaps give it a light sanding, silicone the boots and clean the leads. Come back and tell us if that helps solves your problem.

Investigate the possibility of going to splitfire replacement coils... I wish I had known about them earlier, that would've saved me going through a dozen coil packs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164961-bad-coils/#findComment-3056997
Share on other sites

Thanks again Howie will give that ago. Car has done 60,000k's Can they go around there? I have heard R34's are notorious for coil failure.

My first set went at 68,000kms on my last car.

It's not just R34 notorious for coil failure, it's basically any nissan car pre-2001 that uses the coil pack system. CA/SR/RB's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164961-bad-coils/#findComment-3057103
Share on other sites

ive had my r34 for 7 months and had 3 coils go on me. in the end i replaced all of them with splitfires. its too costly too continue to replace each coil as they go. my r34 n/a has done 67,000. the last 2 times i lost the coils the car would be running on all 6 cyclinders, then lose a cylinder then gain it back etc. those two coils where showing a greater heat resistance to the others. hope this helps!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164961-bad-coils/#findComment-3057915
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...