Jump to content
SAU Community

Stock Manual R33 Gts-t Fuel Consumption.

Mitchtj
 Share

Recommended Posts

HotPlates Proficient

HotPlates

Posted
Posted

Yeah but with SAFC & PFC you can lean out the fuel, so expect better figures. Don't forget that Jap imports run very rich, partly due to the crap quality fuel we get here, thus the ecu being out of sync. New O2 sensor and fuel injector cleaner works wonders too.

draaahh Explorer

draaahh

Posted
Posted
hey, first post here. Long time lurker i guess :huh:

Iv been considering going the R33 GTST route for some months now, there is simply no other cars which suit my criteria, and are designed to fit people over 6ft tall (try sitting in most coupes). But, i do alot of highway KM's (600+ per week), and are wondering how you guys find fuel consumption. I know there is a sticky on this subject, but its mostly on semi-modified skylines getting 300rwkw etc.

How do you find the stock manuals, for mostly highway driving? Is it possible to get over 500k's from the 50L tank when driven conservatively?

If the fuel consumption is high, try replacing the oxygen sensor. The factory sensors are Bosch, but these tend to clog up after a few years, so I have found NGK ones to be better. Part number is O2A395-E2 for R33 GTS-t.

  • 1 month later...
Mitchtj Rookie

Mitchtj

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Bumping this for potential buyers.

I ended up picking up a nice auto s2. And so far it has been averaging around 9-10 on the highway, and 12-13 around town. And i rarely drive it sensible. I really don't know why you guys were getting so low k's. This is stock currently, i'd like to modify it, but i would prefer not to mess with the fuel consumption currently :D

mesmerized Mentor

mesmerized

Posted
Posted
im at 260-270kms with my mods cause of no aftermarket EMU.

no aftermarket EMU lol

i'm getting really sh#t fuel consumption atm - 220km per tank. but i'm getting a remap soon, so hopefully i'll be able to improve that

Nismo_God Veteran

Nismo_God

Posted
Posted

I get around 350kms off around 42-43L and thats a range of driving....turn boost right down all the time to save fuel....but i jsut cant do it.....i have good intentions tho...

MotoMan Rising Star

MotoMan

Posted
Posted

For all those people complaining about shit fuel economy.. this is how to work it out...

1) DO NOT trust your fuel gauge

If i followed my fuel gauge id be in here crying about my economy too...

ok.. here we go

Fill you tank completely

drive drive drive... after 200Ks refill all the way to the top

now divide the amount of litres you put in (lets say 29.56L) by your ks (200kms) = 14.78L per 100kms

According to my fuel gauge my car is empty after 300ks.. however i am currently using 14.4L/100kms

which means id be able to travel at least 450ks before my tank is bone dry

siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
Posted (edited)
The tank is 65L not 60

serious? always thought it was 60 max..

i swear i filled up once to 59L or so, and it started to over fill.. thats from right from the bottom of the tank, and i could feel the car stravin of fuel, beofre i got to the pump..

hmmm

And dont buy a skyline if you constantly thinkin about fuel prices..

Get a small 2l corolla that will do 600 plus..

Edited by siddr20
gts-4 dreamer Mentor

gts-4 dreamer

Posted
Posted

first in 5th, cruising freeway im spooled by 90kph and amd roughly on 3000-3200 rpm @ 110kph. if I steady cruise @ 80kph which is just the underside of spooled and I didnt come across any hills of consequence I could probably get a fair bit considering my car still has a 9:1 comp ratio.

I get the 300k's 3/4 tank of gas. I tend to start looking for a station around that bottom quarter mark. I like a healthy 'cooled' fuel pump.

second my car holds 1/8th a tank of gas in its return line so if I give it the loud pedal an the fuel pump goes into high mode its circulates a crap load of fuel around the car.

once I get proper management sorted an tuned (pfc - in the next month) il let you know how much it chews.

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted

my old r33 gtst, I used for work got 10L/100kms without issue (city).

I only dump in as much fuel as I need for a day or two and run it down to almost empty. 20L of fuel as opposed to 60L means you are almost 40kg less weight to start with.Less weight means better ecconomy and as a plus better power to weight for a moment of spirited driving. It also ensures a cleaner fuel system, with less built up crap in your tank.

Ensuring a good state of tune and service is important too.

smasht Collaborator

smasht

Posted
Posted

i am currently getting around 340kms out of a near full tank from my modified R33 GTST - car seems to be running a little rich though as their is a strong fuel smell behind my car and the ocasional backfire ;D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...