Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

my amp just died on me. well not died exactly, more just stopped working.

it has power at the amp terminals, the amps fuse is in tact, the main pwr fuse is ok.

shit i checked every cable to it.

its a boss audio 1400. bout 6months old.

ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165088-amp-just-died/
Share on other sites

its a boss... its dead...

they blow like a hungry hooker man... ive blown more boss amps then all others combined... no shit...

On the off chance its not f**ked, do the normal checks...

you say it has power already, it might be in protect, let it cool down...

you might have disabled the sub pre out on the head unit... maybe...

check RCAs and what not...

check your signal wire from the head unit... if that has fallen out, grounded or broken, it wont know to turn on...

if its under warranty, go get it replaced (they dont bother fixing it most times) otherwise, go buy a better amp... please...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165088-amp-just-died/#findComment-3058371
Share on other sites

did all the usual checks. all the rest of my system is pioneer, including the new subs i have.

how do you rate the pioneer amps?

might just get myself 1 of them.

over priced... you pay a good percentage for Pioneers name... its all money with amps, pick the amount of power you want, then the amount of money you have... then come back and ask again :P

its dead. replace it.

wise wise words :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165088-amp-just-died/#findComment-3058874
Share on other sites

there are a lot of GOOD brands depending on what you want.

suggestions are:

DLS,Blaupunkt, ALPINE (PDX) for a start..

cheap crap will go boom boom for a short while then bang as you have found.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165088-amp-just-died/#findComment-3058980
Share on other sites

I honestly heard not a single good word about Boss subs.... My mate leant me one and said you can have it for $150.. but after reading everything about it im inclined to give it back to him.

Ive got a similar setup to you cheez, im looking at getting a sub+amp, just dont know what to get haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165088-amp-just-died/#findComment-3059072
Share on other sites

got 350watt pioneer 6x9 rear speakers and 800watt 10" Pioneer Sub.

what sort of amp and power rating do you guys recommend?

dont quote the max power for starters...

as for brands... ask chris rogers... im just here for the help :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165088-amp-just-died/#findComment-3059245
Share on other sites

Look at the RMS of the speakers and sub and go from there. Try look for two amps, one for the front/middle stage and one for the sub. But it depends on what sort of setup you're after.

I would also look at removing the 6x9s for just some filler, the sub should be producing all the necessary bass. That is of course, if your front stage (front of the car) is decent.

Me personally, I'm not a fan of buying based upon brand name. Don't go buy an amp or sub because it's cheap or bacause "Sony rox", research it and try listen to it in a car not on a board. Speak to the installers, see what they are running and recommend. Spending a few extra weeks and a few hundred more doesn't give you these situations where amps just die.

All lessons though, we are all here to help you through.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165088-amp-just-died/#findComment-3060634
Share on other sites

hey guys

just an update. problem solved.

ended up being the fuse holder on the power wire. the encase had cracked and some how was making contact with the metal on my car, thus causing a power surge and amp just refused to turn on.

replaced holder, all well in love and car audio. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165088-amp-just-died/#findComment-3063417
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...