Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I have a GFB Stealth and when I have it set to full atmo, it's nearly loud enough to wake the dead :nyaanyaa: I love it, but it just screams to cops, "DEFECT ME!" so only turn it to atmo now and again, mainly have it set to plumback :domokun:

Oh and not only can you use the SAFC/SAFC2, but also using a Power-FC fixes this, basically any form of aftermarket ECU/piggy back ECU that tunes fuel should be able to fix it up.

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

From my infomation a BOV increases the rate at which you hit boost and enables it to come on easier if that makes any sence...

Plumb back is best (im gettin a Stealth FX) and might turn it to atmo when i get a S AFC Neo

my simplistic take on how Atmo BOVs upset some systems is basically the engine management computer goes

HEY.. WTF did all that air go ? conk .. stall ...

( I did say simplistic )

Yeah BOVS improve shift times due to when the butterfly valve in the throttle body closes ( on liftoff for shifts ) it prevents a big wad of trapped air bouncing back down the intake tract..

Please note that I do not proclaim to be an expert at this. just what I recall from previous discussions

my simplistic take on how Atmo BOVs upset some systems is basically the engine management computer goes

HEY.. WTF did all that air go ? conk .. stall ...

( I did say simplistic )

:D

Its funny because its true!

Somebody get this man a pork pie hat with a press card in the band

You need to start writing tech articles with eloquence like that

haa.. at work I got told to work on my writing style for technical write ups because they were " too personal "

:D

Its funny because its true!

Somebody get this man a pork pie hat with a press card in the band

You need to start writing tech articles with eloquence like that

  • 2 years later...

Hmmm, well heres a ancient thread revival. But is one that seemed most relevant in discussion to B.O.V's that i could find.

The talk in this topic seems to be mostly about the series 1 stagea, and from what i understand while a plumback is best suited to either engine, a atmo will work with some form of tuning.

Because my car is the series 2, Will my nistune be able to counter the loss of air the atmo will give or would it be better to just go plumback and not worry. (Yes this is rice( i would like a little sound though), yes i know it doesnt help much with the car, but Its my car and ill do what i want haha :P.)

Hmmm, well heres a ancient thread revival. But is one that seemed most relevant in discussion to B.O.V's that i could find.

The talk in this topic seems to be mostly about the series 1 stagea, and from what i understand while a plumback is best suited to either engine, a atmo will work with some form of tuning.

Because my car is the series 2, Will my nistune be able to counter the loss of air the atmo will give or would it be better to just go plumback and not worry. (Yes this is rice( i would like a little sound though), yes i know it doesnt help much with the car, but Its my car and ill do what i want haha :P.)

i haven't seen anywhere in nistune where you can control the decelerating air mixture the way the SAFC does. unless it can be controlled from the main fuel map you'd still get the stalling i'd say.

i haven't seen anywhere in nistune where you can control the decelerating air mixture the way the SAFC does. unless it can be controlled from the main fuel map you'd still get the stalling i'd say.

Ah okay interesting. So that leaves options with a plumback, or just don't waste the money?

I would just leave the factory BOV in place. The other reason why I am not a fan of ATMO ( ie louder ) BOV's in auto's ( I presume your Stag is Auto? ) is that the auto seems to make the BOV go off at werid times. I guess the same is true with Manuals ( ie rev, back off , flutterz )

I fail to see how a BOV will help with performance at all.

Basically, while building pressure, there will be absolutely no difference between a plumbback or atmo bov. since both will stay fully closed until the pressure exceeds their preset threshold (which wont happen until pretty much as soon as the butterfly closes again).

The difference between them only occurs when you LIFT your foot off the pedal, so there's no way it can make boost build faster or slower. The 2nd difference is after you lift your foot - either the excess air from in the intake will vent to atmosphere or it will end up back in your intake. If its back in the intake then this would assist in response as well, since once you hit the pedal again it doesn't have to suck more air in, its already there ready to go...

I cant see any of that making a huge difference to performance but in any case the way I see it - the atmo bov could only be worse, not better for performance.

The only way performance could increase is because you need some form of ecu/tuning to get the atmo one to work - but I'd argue if you put the same ecu+tuning with the plumbback you'd get the same benefit.

Hope that makes sense...happy for someone to provide a counter-argument since I'm only talking theory here...

Basically, while building pressure, there will be absolutely no difference between a plumbback or atmo bov. since both will stay fully closed until the pressure exceeds their preset threshold (which wont happen until pretty much as soon as the butterfly closes again).

If you are talking aftermarket BOV's, then yes, I agree.

OEM Nissan BOV? Different. How so? Well it has a small hole that is constantly bleeding air and bypassing the actual valve which aftermarket units do not have AFAIK.

You cannot just take the tubing off an M35 BOV because it is constantly leaking air which will cause terrible fuel economy and stalling.

I have been told that all Nissan BOV's have this "feature"

i have a series 2 RS4-s with a blitz atmo BOV. it came like that when i bought it.. and i'm pretty sure there's no form of non-standard tuning on the car

i dont get any stalling whatsoever! :rolleyes: my fuel economy is not AWESOME tho. i'll get a PFC eventually.

Any MAF car will have some degree of issue with an atmo BOV.

A MAP sensor based ECU is the best way around this if you MUST keep it.

The best option? remove the fkn ghey BOV, and if you are running stupid boost fit a factory GTR BOV.

If you are talking aftermarket BOV's, then yes, I agree.

OEM Nissan BOV? Different. How so? Well it has a small hole that is constantly bleeding air and bypassing the actual valve which aftermarket units do not have AFAIK.

I have been told that all Nissan BOV's have this "feature"

There are two ways around this. You can tap this small hole and put a screw in it. Mark the screw when it bottoms and then wind it out and cut it off at that point and cut a slot with a hacksaw. Then screw it back in making sure that its flush (nothing protruding).

The other way is to get a GTR bov. They don't have the hole but they have a different diameter return hose so you will have to make some adaptor.

does anyone know what pressure level the factory bov is good for (in a s2 steagea)? the vast majority of time we're getting flutter... i would have thought it'd be a consistent woosh with a proper plumback setup?

does anyone know what pressure level the factory bov is good for (in a s2 steagea)? the vast majority of time we're getting flutter... i would have thought it'd be a consistent woosh with a proper plumback setup?

Mines blowing open at 1bar, so I've had to block it off until I get a new higher rated aftermarket plumb back. If your keen Josh let me know an I'll swap BOV's with you, yours might be stuffed and it's not opening properly so you get the flutter. Mine is working fine, just not good enough for my setup.

I had a Stealth GFB bov on my stag and it was as loud as hell. It was great, I could adjust it for plubback or atmo venting. Didnt make a lick of difference to power. Going through some of the old docs I have laying around my HDD I found these and thought they might be useful:

Blow_Off_Valves.pdf Discharge.pdf

Mines blowing open at 1bar, so I've had to block it off until I get a new higher rated aftermarket plumb back. If your keen Josh let me know an I'll swap BOV's with you, yours might be stuffed and it's not opening properly so you get the flutter. Mine is working fine, just not good enough for my setup.

Tried a GTR BOV?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...