Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

260kw on stock injectors with all other supporting mods using slide hi-flow running 17 psi. Also the use of a nismo fuel pressure reg helped.

IMO all the supporting mods for that output would include injectors. The duty would be close if not 100% at high RPM i.e. it its static.

Its is not recommended to exceed 80% duty cycle. Otherwise you will run the risk of the injector not being able to open and close quickly enough, which causes the injector to float half open. This may lean the mixture out, which is not going to healthy for an engine at high revs and under full load which is where this occurs. Under static conditions the injector cannot control fuel delivery anymore and based on this my assumption is why ppl see good results from installing an FPRs to simply add more fuel under this circumstance. IMO this would be the caveman approach.

There is an arguement that it only happens at high RPM and that doesnt happen all the time. As mentioned before the AFRs would be a good guide to see if this is happening.

IMO if ur spending the money on everything else just buy some 550cc NISMO ones and be done with it for an app under 280 rwkw

550c NISMO injectors, would they manage at 300kw?

Also, when replacing the injectors, how long after until you consider changing the fuel rail and fuel pump?

Any need for a rising rate regulator....

550c NISMO injectors, would they manage at 300kw?

Also, when replacing the injectors, how long after until you consider changing the fuel rail and fuel pump?

Any need for a rising rate regulator....

I doubt u will get to 300 without a new pump.

also running 235rwkw on stock injectors and stock pump, no reg.

Ive also heard of people running big power (300rwkw) with stock injecctors..and I heard this from an exerienced tuner? But from what these forums say its impossible to run this/or dangerous to do so...it might be I dont know?

Im assuming that it may depend on the tuner and how he tunes it...People say rb25 AFM need to be upgraded over 220rwkw..mines fine at 235rwkw.

Its also good to consult with a tuner as they are the ones tuning these things on a daily basis and some for a long time.

my 2c

I wish i knew the explanation of different parts maxing out at different power. I know that no 2 parts are the same, though I have a good feeling is has sumthing to do with the tune.

Cheers

it has lots to do with the dyno IMO

it probably has most to do with that . the only other factor thats variable here is AFR , a lean mixture will make more power with less air and rich mixture will require more air to make the same power . i would expect most people who have a tune though will know what to look for in their AFRs so most tuners would be roughly the same as they are aiming for good AFR curve , so not enough to produce great variences . there will also be some variance in the calibration of each individual AFM , they may vary voltage slightly for a certain amount of measured air due to age or tolerance

but to get 30-40 rwkw difference i would say it would be mostly dyno variations with a bit of the above . i know my figures were on a notoriously conservative dyno

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...