Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I just got a jim berry full monty clutch installed, the problem is that my clutch is still slipping, what could cause this? The previous clutch was still ok supposedly with plenty of meat still left on it but my throwout bearing was seized, hence the clutch change, previous clutch was an exedy 5 puck. When I was still driving on the old clutch the throwout bearing karked it ( started squeeling), then about 100km later the clutch started slipping, the throwout makes a squeeling noise. I thought the clutch was worn out but it isnt, what causes a clutch to slip if it still has meat on it?

The workshop also machined the flywheel and bled the clutch system. I took the car to a reputable workshop in canberra so I am a bit worried that they dont know the answer. They said they would ring jim tonight to see what he thinks. So my question is why would a brand new clutch slip?????

My car is a 96 R33 gts-t

Apexi PFC

Apexi 100m thick fmic

split dump and 3 inch

13 psi

HKS mushroom pod

cusco 2 way

hks coilovers

210rwkw

Thanks for your help people, Matt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165755-clutch-issues/
Share on other sites

also you got a std flwheel? or an aftermarket one like the follwing:

note the holes drilled around the middle to lighten it. weight should be taken from the outside, lighten it like the following and the holes will work as a vacuum against the rear main seal.

extremefly1ov2.th.jpg

ask the installer if he lubed the input shaft with grease, or graphite. he shoulda used graphite caus if the grease gets on the clutch face/s they will slip.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165755-clutch-issues/#findComment-3070968
Share on other sites

Jim's full monty's come with a new clutch plate and pressure plate. I doubt it's the components that are to blame at this point. More likely the install (lube on the clutch plate), type of flywheel chosen (as mentioned above) or a leaky rear main oil seal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165755-clutch-issues/#findComment-3071063
Share on other sites

Jim's full monty's come with a new clutch plate and pressure plate. I doubt it's the components that are to blame at this point. More likely the install (lube on the clutch plate), type of flywheel chosen (as mentioned above) or a leaky rear main oil seal.

agreed... when i spoke to jim - he practically guaranteed his full monty WILL NOT slip.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165755-clutch-issues/#findComment-3073062
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hot tip, stop picking at shit. Live in bliss instead   From my recent experience in rust repairs, white it may seem to not go much further back, you'll still need to cut back a bit further.  From what I can see there, the outer skin, and the inner is rusted too. From what I can see you've got the inner one which is all structural, and window likely affixes too.   If tag Murray Calavera here, but my phone won't let me tag him, he'd probably be able to give the best advise.   I do know, welding roof panels is a right pain in the bollocks! Very heavy to heat distort the roof and warp it all.
    • Some of the filler.   Also if I look under the top flap of metal it starts looking good quite close to the edge. I get the feeling it doesn't go much further.
    • So, I finally started digging at the bit of my roof that was cracking and bulging a bit. Well, it was just thick filler that was covering some pretty bad rust. I didn't find the edges, I was too bummed to keep going.  There are a few holes as you can see. There was just so much filler but looks like no attempt under the filler to prime or use rust converter, just slapped filler on exposed rust.  Anyway, I'm going to take the windshield out and find the edges. I'd love to fix this myself as I'm pretty sure it'll be expensive to get done properly. I was thinking I could just get a cut piece from another E39 and just weld it in place as it would be the right size and shape.  Thoughts?
    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
×
×
  • Create New...