Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looking at buying my old mans 33, he is old and fussy so i know its been well cared for, what more good reason to do it?

its a practically stock 95' R33 auto, it already has a microtech comp in it, and a cat back 3'exhaust and split pulse dump pipe, now i am plannin to add FMIC, 3"front pipe+3" cat, highflow turbo, injectors and larger fuel pump, could these mods see me too atleast 230rwkw and possibly upwards?

cheers mick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166219-230-250rwkw-33-auto/
Share on other sites

looking at running around 17psi i am sure the highflow would be in about the meat of its effeciency at this point. no way am i feeling down about an auto. got a VL turbo in the shed with 300kw thats a 5 speed and would much rather an auto in it,

boostd-its a 4 speed auto, how much power did you have to run 12.2?

id definitely get an auto trans cooler and a temp gauge installed next if you plan to be giving the auto a bit. the heat kills the boxes. with a shift kit/valve body upgrade they are unstoppable.

the mods you listed should see you into the 250's quite easily.

looking at running around 17psi i am sure the highflow would be in about the meat of its effeciency at this point. no way am i feeling down about an auto. got a VL turbo in the shed with 300kw thats a 5 speed and would much rather an auto in it,

boostd-its a 4 speed auto, how much power did you have to run 12.2?

The 4 speeds are stronger from factory so u should b able to run that power without cracking the trans open...and a trans cooler would preserve it some more.

I did that time with 244rwkw a 2800rpm stall and cheapo chinese street tyres.

when your going around a corner and your not on the throttle much if the revs are going down it can change gears on you- so if your just just hanging onto the corner it will spin you out of controll and its pretty hard to catch.

what do you mean?
when your going around a corner and your not on the throttle much if the revs are going down it can change gears on you- so if your just just hanging onto the corner it will spin you out of controll and its pretty hard to catch.

wrong...

my s1 r33 auto has never done that once in its life, and will only kick back in gears at full throttle, or if you drop down to below about 20kmph.

they are a very predictable trans and i highly rate them once there modded....

thats why i asked for it to be explained, it hasnt happened to me. it wont happen if you know how to handle the auto.

you can predict when it will kick down.

playing with the TPS can adjust the kick down (although you wont get 100% throttle), but not completely stop it.

i was asking about the track killing the autos from heat. does anyone have any tips besides a tans cooler and a temperature gauge?

Sorry, what I meant is if you are going sideways in a manual and slightly back off it will reduce wheel spin and straighten up in a controlled manner, however an auto on backoff lets off alot more on slight throttle decreases due to the stall convertor and causes snap back. Mine has a high stall which I'm sure makes it even worse.

what do u mean wrong, mine has done it before. what you talkin about u clown don't just come on and say someone is wrong maybe urs doesn't do it but i know personally of four cars that do

you and your mates car may need a trans service and some adjusting.

the skyline should never kick back a gear unless you want it too. as i said before either by flooring it , or by slowing down to around 20kmph.

If your trans is downshifting at speed with no throttle then you have some other issues that needs looking at.

as suggested TPS, fluid level etc.

cheers

The Clown....

Sorry, what I meant is if you are going sideways in a manual and slightly back off it will reduce wheel spin and straighten up in a controlled manner, however an auto on backoff lets off alot more on slight throttle decreases due to the stall convertor and causes snap back. Mine has a high stall which I'm sure makes it even worse.

it all comes down to practice.

with the auto you need to drive thru the slide and power out the other end.

while with the manual you can more play with the throttle and feed it on and off thru the corner.

both work well but you need to adjust your driving accordingly.

If your car will spin the wheels in drive then it becomes easier to control to a point , at which you get to much forward momentum and then that creates its own issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
    • You have a knack for photography my friend. It makes the 86 look like a complete bucket. The 34 went with you to Europe and back. It's special. (we all feel the same about our 'shitboxes' that every bystander seems to absolutely love)
×
×
  • Create New...