Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

261 pages of information.

If you carry on asking RB30 questions then this thread wont be around long as its all covered :P

Even your wildest dreams are in there

my first post still has a question in it wich is non rb30 related, i havent asked any real rb30 questions i was just asking ones opinion wich way they would go. If i wanted to know or seek information on building an rb26/30 then yes i could go to that thread or there is one also on a uk website.

you are not quite breaking new ground here. there are hundreds, probably thousansds of GTR around the world making 450rwkw. they have been done all different ways, RB30, RB31, RB28, RB27, RB29, RB26, Big single, big twins, low mount twins, low mount single, ball bearing single, in 32, 33 and 34 GTR.

And you ask anyone who has a reliable, and healthy 450kw and they will tell you $20K to get the ball rolling and then up to another $10K to make the package really nice. don't forget a 450rwkw car needs some good brakes, needs some good suspension, need a decent fuel system, need a big radiator, needs a big intercooler, needs good tuning (and lots of time spent on doing it), need a good igntion system, needs an engine built by someone who knows what they are doing, needs some smart oil control mods, needs a gearbox upgrade, needs good tyres, needs good gauges. it needs money most of all. it doesn't matter if your mate is a top mechanic and engine builder. my best friend is a engineer and mechanic who runs his own shop and has for year, doesn't mean i'd expect him to build me a motor for free.

450rwkw is an admirable goal in a GTR, but it's a shit load of power and needs a serious wallet to back it up.

there are a few guys on here with 450rwkw+ i'm sure they will tell you some tales of cost vs benefit.

you will find lots and lots of guys between 250 and 300rwkw. not a lot of cost to get there. then some more guys with 300-350 kw (quite a lot more cost than the 300 guys) then a few more who've gone the extra little bit to 350-400kw. but there are even fewer sitting at 450kw and hardly any at 500rwkw. there is a reason for it. the cost grows exponentially and the enjoyment sometimes doesn't as the car becomes less usable, even on the track.

How many beers did that post take?

I concur 150%. Spot on the money as usual.

Id also add, doesnt even matter if your mate can build motors. Building reliable RB's is an art.

There are key things that need attention that are not "standard" detail items for your "every day" rebuild. And you wont know these things unless you've put together many RB's in the past as you gain these things from knowledge of the motors themselves. Seeing them fail, working out why and then improving upon that.

You can be the best motor builder in your state, doesnt mean the RB built will last the distance if you dont have excellent knowledge of them.

rev210 said last week i think RB's cost a farken fortune to rebuild right, and he isnt wrong

Some good advice in above posts and I will add from experience here, go the jap stroker kit you will not regret it but you may end up with a cracked block if you use a standard 5u block with that much power . If you are looking for anything above 300-350 awkw ( genuine, not just in number) you should use a better block , a 24u or even a RRR block. Unfortunately they are hard to find and very expensive.. If you want over 400 kw you should be looking at a gearbox and clutch at the very minimum . Now you can see that high powered GTRS are bottomless pits .

I was reading through and thinking to myself I'd want $30k to do this properly but Beer baron has already said it.

It's not like you can shop around for some of the parts, like wrxhoon has mentioned a 24u or a GT block would be better than the standard or rb30 block and you basically are over a barrel trying to source one of those.

I was reading through and thinking to myself I'd want $30k to do this properly but Beer baron has already said it.

It's not like you can shop around for some of the parts, like wrxhoon has mentioned a 24u or a GT block would be better than the standard or rb30 block and you basically are over a barrel trying to source one of those.

Mick has spend $30k and it cost him zero for labour !!! You are right you can't buy N1 or GT blocks, even the days that you could you would be paying $3-$4 K for N1, much more for the Nismo GT.

You can always try to cut corners then re-do the whole thing again. Sometimes you don't even cut corners and you still have troubles .

If you are looking at the RB30...

Factor in the sump adaptor, rev reliability issues that require a good balancer + full length oil pump drive.

Then consider... Who has done it in a 33GTR?. The R32's have bonnet fouling issues unless you lower the subframe and engine mounts. The R33's 'may' or 'may not' have this same issue.

Spoolup does a set of RB30 CP forged pistons & rings with spool forged rods for 2k.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...