Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im want to know how much power fellow SAU members have with RB25det running SACF, SAFC-II, SAFC Neo

Please also list other mods if you be bothered thanks :ninja:

SAFC: What Model (SACF, SAFC-II, SAFC Neo)

GearBox: AT/MT

Turbo: Factory / Other (please state)

Exhauset: Catbat / Turbo back

Air Filter: Pannel / pod / pod with CAI

Injectors: Factory / other (what size)

Intercooler: Factory / other (What size)

Fuel Reg: Yes / No

Fuel Pump: Factory / other (What Brand)

Boost Controller: Bleed / EBC (what psi)

BOV: Factory, Atmo venting

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

This is mine on 98 pump gas at 10psi boost 201.3rwkw

SAFC: SAFC-II

GearBox: MT

Turbo: Factory

Exhauset: Turbo back

Air Filter: pod

Injectors: Factory

Intercooler: FMIC 600x300x76

Fuel Reg: Sard Reg

Fuel Pump: Walbro

Boost Controller: HKS EVC 5 @ 10 PSI

BOV: Greedy Type R Atmo venting

Mine 93 R33, 182 rwkw @ 10Psi

SAFC: 5 nobs old school SAFC ($90 from Ebay)

GearBox: MT

Turbo: Factory

Exhauset: Catbat

Air Filter: pod

Injectors: Factory

Intercooler: JJR 600x300x76

Fuel Reg: No

Fuel Pump: Factory

Boost Controller: Bleed

BOV: Factory

on Unleaded = 167 rwKw @10 psi

On Premium = 187 rwKw @10 psi on stock ecu

On 98 = 196 rwKw @ 10 psi on stock ecu

NOW

Central 20 ecu + SAFC II + 98 octane = 207 rwKw @ 12.7 psi and 217 rwKw @ 14.9 psi.

BUT the biggest thing with the central 20 ecu is that i managed to pick up 70 rwKw through the midrange.

SAFC: SAFC-II

GearBox: MT

Turbo: Factory

Exhauset: Turbo back

Air Filter: pod with CAI

Injectors: Factory

Intercooler: 600x300x76

Fuel Reg: No

Fuel Pump: Walbrow

Boost Controller: Gizzmo EBS

BOV: Factory

yeah, don't forget the standard ecu drops to low octane map, as soon as it detects knock, and there is only so much timming you can back off with the CAS. So yeah better fuel, hight octane map, and yeeehhhaaaa

I got a 96 R33 running 175.2kw @ about 9 - 10psi using BP Ultimate

SAFC: SAFC

GearBox: MT

Turbo: Factory

Exhauset: Turboback

Air Filter: pod

Injectors: Factory

Intercooler: Greddy 600x300x76

Fuel Reg: Stock

Fuel Pump: Stock

Boost Controller: Turbotech Bleed

BOV: Blitz atmo

I was running 12psi after the bleed valve went in so thats when i got the SAFC and when it was getting tuned there was heaps of knock in the mid range so they had the back the boost down to 9-10psi but the SAFC worked well to lean the mixtures out.

r33madd you got nice power from that setup did you reckon the fuel pump got you more power?

Traum

'96 r33 GTS-t

SAFC: SAFC2

GearBox:MT

Turbo: Factory

Exhaust: Turbo back Highflow Cat, 3" from turbo back

Air Filter: pod with CAI

Injectors: Factory

Intercooler: GTR Intercooler

Fuel Reg: No

Fuel Pump: Bosch 040

Boost Controller: Bleed @11 -> 10 @ High RPM

BOV: Factory

160RWKW but SAFC tune was set to +5 to +10% all the way through.. probably a problem with fuel filter/rail/pump causing stock ECU to run lean. Getting it sorted in next cpl of weeks and will post new results. Expecting 180-190RWKW once problem is sorted.

r34 180rwkw

SAFC: SAFC Neo)

GearBox: AT

Turbo: Factory

Exhauset: Turbo back with split dump

Air Filter: K&N Panel

Injectors: Factory

Intercooler: Factory

Fuel Reg:No

Fuel Pump: Factory

Boost Controller: $22 Bleed, 11psi

BOV: Factory

Apparently heatsoak on the dyno was bad and he could only do so much without the timing going to hell.

r33 230rwkw

SAFC: SAFC 2. SITC

GearBox: AT

Turbo: GCG Hi Flow

Exhaust: Turbo back Exhaust

Air Filter: Apexi Power Intake

Injectors: Factory

Intercooler: Hks Front Mount

Fuel Reg: SX Fuel Regulator

Fuel Pump: Bosch 044

Boost Controller: Greddy Profec A

BOV: Factory

Edited by wildr33gtst

S1 R33 GTST 1994

SAFC: SAFC-II

GearBox: MT (converted from auto) still auto computer

Turbo: Factory

Exhauset:Turbo back

Air Filter: Panel K&N

Injectors: Factory

Intercooler: China 600*300*75

Fuel Reg: factory

Fuel Pump: Walbro 550 hp

Boost Controller: Bleed GBF @ 11psi

BOV: Factory

200rwkw

r33 gtst S1 1994

SAFC: SAFC

GearBox: MT

Turbo: Garrett gt2535

Exhauset: 3in. Turbo back

Air Filter: pod with CAI

Injectors: Factory

Intercooler: front mount

Fuel Reg: No

Fuel Pump: r32 GTR

Boost Controller: ajd. actuator

BOV: Factory

201rwkw @ 14psi

don't know whether this counts cause i got an rb20??

SAFC: SAFCII

GearBox: MT

Turbo: t3/t4

Exhauset: Turbo back

Air Filter: pod

Injectors: Factory

Intercooler: front mounted 600x300

Fuel Reg: Yes

Fuel Pump: Walbro

Boost Controller: EBC 17psi

BOV: Atmo venting

mine made 243kw at the wheels

RB25Neo (s2 stagea) auto (tiptronic)

SAFC: SAFC (blue screen, but with buttons)

GearBox: AT

Turbo: GT30 using R34 turbo exhaust housing.

Exhauset: 3" Turbo back

Air Filter: Apexi panel air filter

Injectors: Factory

Intercooler: Factory (same as R34 SMIC)

Fuel Reg: No

Fuel Pump: Factory

Boost Controller: JRD (off ebay - same type as turbotech) manual boost controller - set to 12psi.

BOV: Factory

157.9 awkw (if I remove the front tailshaft to make it rwd, it would be 177.9rwkw) @9psi (boost fades to 9psi at top end).

This was on a ~35 deg day so I like to say ~160awkw to make it a round number....for what its worth :domokun:

I noticed alot of the ppl with power around the 200+kw are the ones with upgraded fuel pumps, while me and say recce have bout 170-180.

Seems like that should be the next thing on the list to get done? you guys reckon thats the reason for the increase in power?

Traum

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...