Jump to content
SAU Community

Best Turbo For 'my' R33 Gtst


Recommended Posts

They use GT30R's on alot of drift cars. So if your aiming for 280kw, I think the GT30 is a good choice. i plan on running mine at 255-265kw range and I think it will do the job. Z32, injectors, ecu next week on thursday and im tehre after a tune.

Racecars are not good examples.

DA cars dont see the street. So they have no need for driveability, low rpm response isnt as important.

The tunes dont matter as much below certain RPM generally. Among all the other things that dont compare to a street driven car

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You dont want the 600hp GT30. I tell you that right now.

It doesnt spool as well as the smaller ones simply because the largest blade GT30 wheel, whilst it flows a lot, but takes a while to get going.

Its not what you want for a stocker engine. It wont be on boost (~17-20psi) till 4500rpm on the street. Simple as that.

If you "must" sit in the GT30 range, you want the smallest offering. The 500hp wheel'd option.

The 600hp GT30 with the big banger wheel will push around 300rwkw (400rwhp) without too much hassle, but dont expect a lot more from it.

30rwkw extra at the most on pulp. Thats largely dependant on how happy the dyno is aswell.

So you want 400rwhp now? Being you really havent thrown a number out anywhere.

You really should get in a 400rwhp car and you'll see its more than a handful for the street, its more traction nasty than friendly which doesnt make for a quick streeter.

lol. You have to "clutch it". Thats a way to move forward fast while your fighting wheelspin.

what are you talking about....boost at 4500 i have a gt3040 .63 ex on my engine no cams.....and i hit full boost at 3800

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Man i wish i had all this info when i was looking for a turbo, for a street car theres no need to go for anything past a highflow or a direct fit GTRS or something T25/28 based, like everyone else said response is what you want for a street car, why would you want a lag monster?

You cant go past a direct bolt on for $$ and for performance... standard manifold is fine just look at setups and results from all the other forum members, and if you don't plan on opening up the motor i wouldn't go for a GT30 besides as soon as its spotted by the cops/epa your in for big $$... its just not worth it if its just a street car. If you go track/drift/drag car then i'd understand but its only a st car...

Seriously, listen to the people with experience (i wish i did) save yourself a motor and save yourself some $$ and headf**ks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

True, but I think my GT30R hybrid turbo is great, off boost and on. And regency, IMO tougher from what I hear than any other state, cannot spot them easily at all since its in a RB25 Turbo's hiflowed casing.

It's a good street turbo-kit I got and I think it will be fine at my intended use for it after next thurs & after injectors and Z32 (14-16psi).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what are you talking about....boost at 4500 i have a gt3040 .63 ex on my engine no cams.....and i hit full boost at 3800

You do not have the 600hp version if you have a .63 rear end.

The 600hp is a .82 only as its not possible to get the flow through the small rear

You have the one with the smaller of the comp wheels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You do not have the 600hp version if you have a .63 rear end.

The 600hp is a .82 only as its not possible to get the flow through the small rear

You have the one with the smaller of the comp wheels.

oh fair enough then my bad lol, but the 3040 with the .63 is a weapon of a turbo i love it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A couple of posts up he said full boost by 3,800rpm.Sounds good.Damn,I can`t decide between hksGTRS or 3040 .63 or 3076 or 3071.I do know that I have spent a lot of time and money on my GCG hiflow and still have 220rwkw.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dan is the man!

Thats about the power im lookin for 240kw - 250kw

Good spool up time thanks to the .63 rear end, 3200rpm to full boost at 3800rpm

And the best thing is the low boost, Less stress on the turbo and the engine.

The GT3040 and GT3076 are the same price at this place i looked, and even on the garret website, so they aint trying to push me for more money on this one. If anything they'd tell me to get the less powered one and wait for me to come back lookin for more power if they wanted me to spend more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my 2 cents ,having driven gcg 450hp hi flow , gt3076 500 hp turbo with a/r .63 internal wastegate and my current set up gt3040 600hp turbo with a/r .82 exhaust housing.

gcg 450p hi flow gave me 230rwkws on 20 psi at 3200rpm. heaps on low end and midrange a great street turbo.

gt3076 500hp turbo gave me 260rwkws on 20 psi at 3500rpm / 3800rpm. three weeks later the engine let go. then i had the engine rebuilt with forged internals and with the addition of tomei poncams step 1s , she pulled 281rwkws on 22psi this was with 8.5 to 1 compression instead of standard 9 to 1. this combination pulled high 12s down the quarter with crap 2.2second 60 footers on street tyres and 112 mph. a great compramise between street and strip!

gt3040 600hp turbo with .82 a/r exhaust housing, tial 38mm external wastegate and highmount manifold plus ported head now gives me 274 rwkws on 15/17 psi and 347 rwkws at 4400rpm fullboost but you feel the kick in the pants from 4000rpm. yet to try this combo out on the dragstrip but i can tell you that from 4400rpm to 4600rpm the power goes from like 168 rwkws to 268 rwks and its breaks traction 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th gear!!! very peaky bitch in deed. luckily though i can turn the boost down from 24psi 347rwkws down to 15psi 274 rwkws and she doesnt come onto boost as hard. hope this help you out, cheers carl.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

jeeze u dont have good luck do you?

Well the engines that come out of Slide's shop are known as the Widow Makers.

I know of 3 other people that have had a rebuild and when done with their new turbo setup they have crashed them aswell. :laugh:

2 possible reasons

Me and the other 3 people cant drive (my fault for the crash and from what i heard from the others definately theirs)

Or

The engines they build are posessed by the devil and make too much power to handle by any man.

Im sticking to the 2nd lol ;)

Allthough they havnt killed anyone yet if it wasnt for my airbag i probably would be lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ery peaky bitch in deed. luckily though i can turn the boost down from 24psi 347rwkws down to 15psi 274 rwkws and she doesnt come onto boost as hard. hope this help you out, cheers carl.

Is it possible to get a fancy boost controller that bleeds the boost so it comes on in a more linear fashion ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't make it out of your driveway. Both your rear wheels will go in whichever direction they feel. Your Hicas rack or a lockout bar is required to keep your wheels straight. 
    • Updating results.  Using ATR45SS-0 model VS UHF57-900. Those two are very different turbos, different wheels sets with different wheel hub profiles but yet with almost identical result. I’m intrigued with both turbos performance. ATR45SS-0 was a 61mm turbo first developed in May 2020, UHF57-900 was a 62mm turbo developed in March 2024 as a powered up alternative of a G30-900. On paper ATR45SS-0 maxed at 563rwkws, while UHF57-900 maxed at 568rwkws. ATR45SS was slightly more responsive with slightly better power band through the mid range.  Road driving ability, ATR45SS-0 had better throttle response, felt more robust under throttle, as it wakes up earlier. I think G series wheel hub design made it to have higher inertia under light throttle. Doing bit more prototype work in the next few weeks, will update result when its back on dyno again. ATR45SS0 Blue, UHF57-900 Red Chequered tuner's Dynapack hub dyno, E85 fuel. Mod list is in video below video_20240604_114214.mp4    
    • Did you run the power cables for the mac valve to the other side of the car near the fusebox? Utilizing the stock boost controller cables? or did you run new ones?
    • Hey I have a potentially stupid HICAS question 🤣 I'm currently doing a full hicas delete, Power steering pump modified to non hicas, all lines removed from the car along with all electronics. My stupid question is - Do I need a lock out bar? is there any reason why I cant just remove everything from the rear end? I already have a lock out bar but thinking to save a few extra grams I could also get rid of the arms and tie rods as well and just run it with nothing in its place? or would it have a negative effect on handling?
    • Hi how are you guys?  I know i have been absent for years but im coming back slowly guys just wondering if anyone know where the ball joint on the NISMO arm front and rear can be replaced with OE parts?  Also  i know this is not the thread looking for springs and blistein shocks for the 260rs. Please advcie     cheers    yudy
×
×
  • Create New...