Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well guys im finally looking at getting my car back on the road.....

Its been sitting in my shed literally unused and unrun for just over 2 years now. The reason behind this is i took a traineeship and blah blah so i could get ahead in life cash wise, well i am ahead now and im gonna get this baby back....

What i wanna know is considering it hasn't been run or used for SO long (surprisingly all the tyres aint flat!) what will i need to check over before taking her out on the road safely as i dont particularly want to be a danger to myself, my car and especially others.

Now im assuming, timing belt, oil, g/box oil, water pump (maybe?), front and rear diff, fuel hose?, fuel lines, brakes?

If there is anything please let me know, thanks guys!

Also by the way the car is a 93 R32 GTS4

Cheers

Maybe change the belts.because they are rubber and they have been still for so long.

Look for cracks,rips/tears general signs of wear.If they are not nearing 80K done on them,if they were not exposed to rain and the elements id say the belts will be k.Look at them give them a wiggle and see if they crack or not.

Dont worry about the water pump straight away.it might still be allright.But if it leaks you know it's time to change it.

Any1 feel free to proove me wrong.

You shouldnt have left the car,and not turned it over at least once a month for a warm up.

Mine was off the road for 1.5yrs.But turned over once or twice a month.the same belts,bar the timing belt,were left on and they had been going strong up untill last week.

So i did the oil and filter,brake fluid,timing belt,diff and gearbox oil,new radiator water.Water pump(tho it did need changing) urs may not.

PS:start the car up on a flat surface seen as tho it has sat for so long the oil will most surely be at one end of the motor.

nothing, just fire it up and drive. No different to my car that was sitting in the garage for half a year doing the turbo.

when your car came over from japan, it coudl have been sitting in a holding yard for months. The wharfies would have prepared your car for driving by cold starting it and ripping a burnout at the rev limiter off the boat.

Edited by MANWHORE
nothing, just fire it up and drive. No different to my car that was sitting in the garage for half a year doing the turbo.

when your car came over from japan, it coudl have been sitting in a holding yard for months. The wharfies would have prepared your car for driving by cold starting it and ripping a burnout at the rev limiter off the boat.

I love this guy's responses.

If your paranoid when remove the plugs, disconnect the cable that goes to the crank angle sensor, and crank the motor till you see oil pressure, refit plugs and cas wire, and away you go. Best to do this as there would be no oil anywhere.

If your paranoid when remove the plugs, disconnect the cable that goes to the crank angle sensor, and crank the motor till you see oil pressure, refit plugs and cas wire, and away you go. Best to do this as there would be no oil anywhere.

Agreed, but i would first change all fluids. It's easy to do for peace of mind.

If your paranoid when remove the plugs, disconnect the cable that goes to the crank angle sensor, and crank the motor till you see oil pressure, refit plugs and cas wire, and away you go. Best to do this as there would be no oil anywhere.
Agreed, but i would first change all fluids. It's easy to do for peace of mind.

best to listen to these guys mate, you will have 0 oil pressure as the oil would have come off the bearings of your motor as well as your turbos. i wouldnt turn the car on unless the gauge started reading oil pressure from cranking it (pulling CAS out and turning key).

nothing, just fire it up and drive. No different to my car that was sitting in the garage for half a year doing the turbo.

when your car came over from japan, it coudl have been sitting in a holding yard for months. The wharfies would have prepared your car for driving by cold starting it and ripping a burnout at the rev limiter off the boat.

dont listen to this guy. just because someone MAY have treated your car like shit, doesnt mean you need to.

don't listen to this guy...

Don't listen to any of em man :blink:

Procedure:

Wait 20min after a meal ( just like mum said b4 swimming), Replace oil, check brake / slave cylinder oil, tyres belts for cracks, coolant, disconnect CAS, crank till pressure, reconnect CAS. While its idling for 2 -3 mins while revving gently, smack yourself in the face for not driving it in so long, check you got your granny nappy on, beep the horn to arouse the stoned hippy off your bonnet and call 000, realing off that theres an "officer down" 40clicks east of your favorite stretch of road ... its Skyline Time!!!!!

joe, i was being slightly sarcastic about the wharfies. My message wasn't totally sarcastic though.

What I was getting at, is people often go team extreme just because of the fact that a car has been sitting there for a little while.

Fuel - will go off, so i'd drive easily until i can refill again.

oil - oil guru websites have generally said that there is no difference between oil sitting in your sump and in a bottle. If it was new before you left it, then it's still new.

filter - why would it go off

coolant - needs to be changed every 2 years anyways.

diff and gbox oil - refer to oil above. I'd like to further add, that gearbox and diff oil needs to be changed even less frequently than engine oil, so it's even less of a concern than the engine oil.

pas fluid - same.

belts - should be fine.

I do agree with disconnecting the cas and giving it a crank though - get some oil flowing before you start it.

I also agree with starting it and letting it warm up - should always do that anyways

Edited by MANWHORE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...