Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well guys im finally looking at getting my car back on the road.....

Its been sitting in my shed literally unused and unrun for just over 2 years now. The reason behind this is i took a traineeship and blah blah so i could get ahead in life cash wise, well i am ahead now and im gonna get this baby back....

What i wanna know is considering it hasn't been run or used for SO long (surprisingly all the tyres aint flat!) what will i need to check over before taking her out on the road safely as i dont particularly want to be a danger to myself, my car and especially others.

Now im assuming, timing belt, oil, g/box oil, water pump (maybe?), front and rear diff, fuel hose?, fuel lines, brakes?

If there is anything please let me know, thanks guys!

Also by the way the car is a 93 R32 GTS4

Cheers

Maybe change the belts.because they are rubber and they have been still for so long.

Look for cracks,rips/tears general signs of wear.If they are not nearing 80K done on them,if they were not exposed to rain and the elements id say the belts will be k.Look at them give them a wiggle and see if they crack or not.

Dont worry about the water pump straight away.it might still be allright.But if it leaks you know it's time to change it.

Any1 feel free to proove me wrong.

You shouldnt have left the car,and not turned it over at least once a month for a warm up.

Mine was off the road for 1.5yrs.But turned over once or twice a month.the same belts,bar the timing belt,were left on and they had been going strong up untill last week.

So i did the oil and filter,brake fluid,timing belt,diff and gearbox oil,new radiator water.Water pump(tho it did need changing) urs may not.

PS:start the car up on a flat surface seen as tho it has sat for so long the oil will most surely be at one end of the motor.

nothing, just fire it up and drive. No different to my car that was sitting in the garage for half a year doing the turbo.

when your car came over from japan, it coudl have been sitting in a holding yard for months. The wharfies would have prepared your car for driving by cold starting it and ripping a burnout at the rev limiter off the boat.

Edited by MANWHORE
nothing, just fire it up and drive. No different to my car that was sitting in the garage for half a year doing the turbo.

when your car came over from japan, it coudl have been sitting in a holding yard for months. The wharfies would have prepared your car for driving by cold starting it and ripping a burnout at the rev limiter off the boat.

I love this guy's responses.

If your paranoid when remove the plugs, disconnect the cable that goes to the crank angle sensor, and crank the motor till you see oil pressure, refit plugs and cas wire, and away you go. Best to do this as there would be no oil anywhere.

If your paranoid when remove the plugs, disconnect the cable that goes to the crank angle sensor, and crank the motor till you see oil pressure, refit plugs and cas wire, and away you go. Best to do this as there would be no oil anywhere.

Agreed, but i would first change all fluids. It's easy to do for peace of mind.

If your paranoid when remove the plugs, disconnect the cable that goes to the crank angle sensor, and crank the motor till you see oil pressure, refit plugs and cas wire, and away you go. Best to do this as there would be no oil anywhere.
Agreed, but i would first change all fluids. It's easy to do for peace of mind.

best to listen to these guys mate, you will have 0 oil pressure as the oil would have come off the bearings of your motor as well as your turbos. i wouldnt turn the car on unless the gauge started reading oil pressure from cranking it (pulling CAS out and turning key).

nothing, just fire it up and drive. No different to my car that was sitting in the garage for half a year doing the turbo.

when your car came over from japan, it coudl have been sitting in a holding yard for months. The wharfies would have prepared your car for driving by cold starting it and ripping a burnout at the rev limiter off the boat.

dont listen to this guy. just because someone MAY have treated your car like shit, doesnt mean you need to.

don't listen to this guy...

Don't listen to any of em man :blink:

Procedure:

Wait 20min after a meal ( just like mum said b4 swimming), Replace oil, check brake / slave cylinder oil, tyres belts for cracks, coolant, disconnect CAS, crank till pressure, reconnect CAS. While its idling for 2 -3 mins while revving gently, smack yourself in the face for not driving it in so long, check you got your granny nappy on, beep the horn to arouse the stoned hippy off your bonnet and call 000, realing off that theres an "officer down" 40clicks east of your favorite stretch of road ... its Skyline Time!!!!!

joe, i was being slightly sarcastic about the wharfies. My message wasn't totally sarcastic though.

What I was getting at, is people often go team extreme just because of the fact that a car has been sitting there for a little while.

Fuel - will go off, so i'd drive easily until i can refill again.

oil - oil guru websites have generally said that there is no difference between oil sitting in your sump and in a bottle. If it was new before you left it, then it's still new.

filter - why would it go off

coolant - needs to be changed every 2 years anyways.

diff and gbox oil - refer to oil above. I'd like to further add, that gearbox and diff oil needs to be changed even less frequently than engine oil, so it's even less of a concern than the engine oil.

pas fluid - same.

belts - should be fine.

I do agree with disconnecting the cas and giving it a crank though - get some oil flowing before you start it.

I also agree with starting it and letting it warm up - should always do that anyways

Edited by MANWHORE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...