Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi people

just wanted an opinion on how muck power my car will make, the rebulid has the following and i intend to put 600cc injectors and camgears to increase boost response. so please tell me your opinions and what would be a good rpm limit for the car as well as how much boost do you think i should run her on??

ACL Forged Pistons

ACL Piston Rings

ACL Big End Bearings

ACL Main Bearings

Ported and polished head

Stock polished crank and rods

Bored and honed Block

N1 Oil pump

N1 Water pump

Tomei Oil Gallery restrictor

Gates timing belt

New engine gaskets all round

New Thermostat

New NGK spark plugs

R34 GTR injectors

R34N1 turbos C106/GT25 A/R 0.60/0.64

New Rod bolts, welsh plugs

Fresh paint on rocker covers

3" Trust Front pipe and Power Extreme II Cat back Exhaust

3" Metal cat

Twin Apexi Pods

Apexi Power FC & Hand Controller

Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller

Nismo fuel pump

Heavy Duty clutch

Thank's in advance guys

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166916-r32gtr-rebuild/
Share on other sites

Sounds like a nice spec to get some good power. I would also look at the fuel pump and perhaps upgrade that as well.

With all that in place you should see around 550-600bhp at the fly. I wouldnt rev much past the 8000rpm limit as N1 oil pumps dont like high revs plus you are keeping std rods. Saying that, with good mapping the engine should last for quite a while but i would run a compression test every 4 or 5 months to ensure everything is fine.

I would also look at a sump extention with baffles.

Gez

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166916-r32gtr-rebuild/#findComment-3088688
Share on other sites

320-350rwkw is pretty much what everyone else makes.... So you wont be much different.

Mainly dependant on what dyno you use than anything else. :P

So for the boost etc, talk to your tuner.

I hope you used decent rod bolts though

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166916-r32gtr-rebuild/#findComment-3088741
Share on other sites

320-350rwkw is pretty much what everyone else makes.... So you wont be much different.

Mainly dependant on what dyno you use than anything else. :P

So for the boost etc, talk to your tuner.

I hope you used decent rod bolts though

To be honest nismoid i didn't do the rebuild i bought the car with all that stuff and it was making 250awkw on 14psi so i don't really know what rod bolts ere used.

but the do usually upgrade them don't they, when they do the rebuild??

Cheers

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166916-r32gtr-rebuild/#findComment-3088880
Share on other sites

sounds fairly similar to my rebuild i just recently had done. my cars making 239.8rwkw's on 14psi.

im running a haltech e11v2 with boost solonoid and 3bar map sensor.

r34 gtr turbos(non steal wheeled, hence only 14psi)

should make 400awkws with the correct bolt ons id say with ease(not talking bout my car). ie bigger turbos, injetors, fuel pump/s, decent ecu, cooler etc.

ill rephrase that, that bottom end should handle 400awkw's

Edited by Turbz_13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166916-r32gtr-rebuild/#findComment-3092290
Share on other sites

Get a pair of Z32 AFM's and a bigger pair of turbo's, that engine should easily handle into the 400's.

With good reliable tuning, proper support systems, i agree. For how long is the real factor, determined by use, bearings etc. A dead injector, failed pump, faulty rod bolt will spoil your day regardless.

Nice build man, envious !!!!! :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166916-r32gtr-rebuild/#findComment-3092955
Share on other sites

Anthony you finally brought a real car :rofl:

Yea finally but i have to change the clutch and after that i can really enjoy it.

By the way guy's the turbo's that i have on it are the bigger r34 n1's .6/.64 so how much power can those turbo's make??? also when should i see about 1 bar of boost with these turbo's

Cheers

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166916-r32gtr-rebuild/#findComment-3094614
Share on other sites

The N1s are the Group A versions which is what I have running on my wagon. Your set up is quite similar apart from your lack of cams and wheels. I made 500.9rwhp or 373rwkw at 23psi. The motor will take more and the turbos have a bit left in them but for reliability 23psi would be up there as a max.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166916-r32gtr-rebuild/#findComment-3094840
Share on other sites

The N1s are the Group A versions which is what I have running on my wagon. Your set up is quite similar apart from your lack of cams and wheels. I made 500.9rwhp or 373rwkw at 23psi. The motor will take more and the turbos have a bit left in them but for reliability 23psi would be up there as a max.

So is this the same turbo's that i have cause everyone's been telling me that it will make a max power of about 310 rwkw. is that true??

Cheers

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166916-r32gtr-rebuild/#findComment-3103417
Share on other sites

I know that my turbos are the N1 Group A, same AR's as what you have stated. The advice you have received is incorrect or there are different boost levels being quoted.

well as far as i know my turbos are the r34 N1's i don't know if there group A's

by the way what rpm do you reach say 1 bar of boost, and do you have any idea when you reached 1 bar without the cam's??

Cheers

anthony

Edited by black sky
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166916-r32gtr-rebuild/#findComment-3108122
Share on other sites

I did a full rebuild and upgraded the turbos, cams, wheels, injectors, afms, sump, pumps, ic, oil cooler everything all at the same time. 14psi is reached around 4600rpm with 23psi coming in around 5000 so its a bit of a light switch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166916-r32gtr-rebuild/#findComment-3108399
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...