Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone used Shell 100 octane 'race fuel' as they call it? Just want to hear some of your feedback about it and how it is.

It contains 5% ethanol is this good or bad? I used it and the car was running pretty good but i dont know if there was a difference between normal 98 octane optimax or ultimate.. (and for you mobil people synergy 8000)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167106-shell-100-octane-petrol/
Share on other sites

You mean V-Power Racing? It's the only fuel I use in my R33. It seems to run the best with it.

EDIT: There is a difference between V-Power & V-Power Racing. The former being 98 RON and the latter 100 RON.

V-Power racing is not available at all Shell stations.

Edited by HotPlates

I used to use it in my car, it caused my check engine light to come on a few times and i got 40 less kms out of a full tank.

That was when it first came out, it might be different now. BP ultimate rocks (not trying to start a fuel war thread lol)

Without going into it too much as we've discussed this many times over... IMO, I think Shell's V-Power is the absolute best... I get more milage, less ping and more bursts of power....

the shell v-power raceing (100 octane) was good im my 31 even being lightly moded still noticed a diffrence.

its good use it just rember it cost more.

V-Power Racing is the best fuel i have used....

do not worry about the ethanol, for any corrosion to take effect, it wil need at least 5-8years. by then your have to rebuild your engine any way....

i use it, brings my knock down to under 10 in hot days...high octane fuel FTW

the only problem is it is not available at too many places

and the nozzle of the pump sucks!

pisses me off how wa gets none of this shit!

by shit i mean good shit!

ha ha ha. i feel ya frustration and fair enough too. geographical locations, plays a big part of marketing unfortunately.

having said that, unless you have very well-tuned skyline with a lot of performance modifications, with V-power fuel you still wouldn't feel such a difference unless you really hammer it.

this is my personal experience, I've tried Optimax 98, Ultimate (with also 98% octaine), V-Power and a few more too; but i have to say, if you're just cruising a long, then anything with 98% octane would do the job and you would feel the extra juice, however, with V-power i noticed that the difference isn't too substantial unless you really push the car to its potential. one time my friend and i took our cars to caulder park, did some quarter-mile times and because i was literally 'flooring' it, at the peak i did feel a slight boost in power due to the V-power fuel. not bad i must say. but then again it does cost much more than usual fuel though.

so yeah, that's just my thoughts on it. i'm sure others will have their opinions too.

cheers,

but then again it does cost much more than usual fuel though.

But we import car drivers have to use 98+ octane anyway. So you can't compare to 92-95 when we can't use it anyway.

Also, V-Power Racing is just as expensive (or a little more) than the Mobil & BP stuff. Eitherway, the BP & Mobil 98 made my car start to stall. V-Power, not one problem.

But we import car drivers have to use 98+ octane anyway. So you can't compare to 92-95 when we can't use it anyway.

Also, V-Power Racing is just as expensive (or a little more) than the Mobil & BP stuff. Eitherway, the BP & Mobil 98 made my car start to stall. V-Power, not one problem.

fair point. :laughing-smiley-014:

ha ha ha. i feel ya frustration and fair enough too. geographical locations, plays a big part of marketing unfortunately.

having said that, unless you have very well-tuned skyline with a lot of performance modifications, with V-power fuel you still wouldn't feel such a difference unless you really hammer it.

this is my personal experience, I've tried Optimax 98, Ultimate (with also 98% octaine), V-Power and a few more too; but i have to say, if you're just cruising a long, then anything with 98% octane would do the job and you would feel the extra juice, however, with V-power i noticed that the difference isn't too substantial unless you really push the car to its potential. one time my friend and i took our cars to caulder park, did some quarter-mile times and because i was literally 'flooring' it, at the peak i did feel a slight boost in power due to the V-power fuel. not bad i must say. but then again it does cost much more than usual fuel though.

so yeah, that's just my thoughts on it. i'm sure others will have their opinions too.

cheers,

octane is not measured in percentage is a rating number. also to get the full effect of a higher octane fuel u should get the timing adjusted accordingly usually advanced a degree or so. also with the ethanol content i wouldn't worry so much about the corrosion but more so the fact that ethanol leans out your a/f's only slightly but if an engine is tuned on the 'edge' then this could kill it.

I have done some work for a EFI manufactor in the past and they did tests using ethanol. Its not to good. It is corrosive!

They had stuffed injectors and all sorts. I got told to stay a way from it.

It is made using sugar, which if enough gets in your fuel tank can destroy a motor. One of the old revenge tricks was adding sugar to someones tank.

I don't usually go in for all the "this fuel is better than that one" BS, but I moved not long ago and now the closest servo to me is a Shell. I've gone through 2 tanks of the V-Power (98 octane) and I've noticed that my pinging and timing are way better then when I ran it exclusively on BP Ultimate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
×
×
  • Create New...