Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

very keen to see what you think of the FET ones. they are black right? with a little red bit on the top? i've seen a few saurus cars in japan using them.

very keen to see what you think of the FET ones. they are black right? with a little red bit on the top? i've seen a few saurus cars in japan using them.

all red, but mine are quite old the newer ones may be differrent. I will check.

very keen to see what you think of the FET ones. they are black right? with a little red bit on the top? i've seen a few saurus cars in japan using them.

They are all red

There is another company making similar coils called Okaka Projects, not sure what colour they use.

all red, but mine are quite old the newer ones may be differrent. I will check.

hmm, that could be them. i am running the splitfires now (and they have been fine to this point), but I can't help but feel there is a better option. I notice some very hardcore cars built by saurus running what I think are the FET ones, and I noticed when I was at veilside their R32 GTR drag car was running standard coils... I was so shocked I even asked Hiranao to make sure. as at the time it went against my belief that standard = crap. I now seem to lean towards: worn out standard = crap, but brand new nissan coils = the best (but cost is way too much).

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FET-DIRECT-IGNITION...8QQcmdZViewItem

found these for sale on ebay ^^^^ they are the same as the ones i have.

post-34927-1178178154.jpg

Edited by URAS

I always worried about editing this feature in the PFC because I believe Datalogit have their description incorrect. How can coil dwell be dependant upon rpm? Secondary coil voltage is dependant upon input power so with a fixed impeadance only voltage and dwell will affect the final spark engergy. Most of the jap stuff I have seen - including tuning of factory ECU's, coil dwell is allways based upon amount dwell vs battery voltage not rpm unless of course its duty clyle based - but then the numbers dont make sense.

Has anybody had time to scope the dwell after editing this table? And yes there is a point that more dwell will result in less secondary coil voltage.

Maybe the thinking behind this is that if you give the coil enought dwell to produce maximum spark energy all the time, then they will overheat, so i guess you could give it a bit more dwell around peak BMEP/torque, to give it the added spark energy without the fear of cooking the coils, as they aren't getting that dwell much of the time? I remember reading that splitfires like a bit more dwell than standard, so i believe it is possible that they may have a different gauge wiring, combined with a different winding ratio between the primary and secondary circuits, food for thought..., please feel free to diagree

I hear what your saying but spark energy is "usually" a function of dwell vs batery voltage not dwell vs rpm - as it is within the datalogit software. Dont get me wrong this table may affect dwell but it may just be worded incorrectly and the scaling from hexidecimal to actual engineering numbers may be wrong. Its one of those things I would test if I only had a free second at work!!!

why are these settings sweet?

what are the benefits of these settings?

Are these going to be best for all cars? if not which ones?

as there isnt much point for posting it if there isnt anything for everyone on the forums besides tuners

Ther was a thread on here a while ago about increasing the dwell on PFC to 1.7ms to suit the splitfires, is it only from the datalogit, or can it be done from the h/c(its been ages since i used one.)I would have thought dwell vs batt voltage would be a no brainer, batt voltage down a little, give it a bit more dwell. If this works as rob says and isnt just a bad translation, i dont see why everyone couldnt tailor their dwell to suit their application, could even set the PFC up to run external bosch coils if the range is big enough(how high can it go?)

Edited by Adriano
I hear what your saying but spark energy is "usually" a function of dwell vs batery voltage not dwell vs rpm - as it is within the datalogit software. Dont get me wrong this table may affect dwell but it may just be worded incorrectly and the scaling from hexidecimal to actual engineering numbers may be wrong. Its one of those things I would test if I only had a free second at work!!!

There is almost always two settings;

IGNITION VOLTAGE DWELL COMPENSATION (amount of time added to base ignition dwell as a function of ignition voltage)

IGNITION DWELL PERIOD ((length of time the ignition coil dwells as a function of rpm) sometimes this is a percentage of duty, like remaps for example)

My thinking is that there is a scaler of "base dwell time" that is not accessable via datalogit or the hand controller. Then there is a mutiplier "IGN vs BatV" which should read "Ignition Dwell mutiplier vs BatV". Then the "IGN dwell vs RPM" is another mutilpier based on RPM.

Also it cant be duty cycle based as all nissan's use dumb ignitors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...