Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok all,

I was at the track last Friday and lost my power stearing at the end of a pass and the HICAS light came on. When I got home I

replaced the power stearing pump and also replaced the HICAS

switch behind the stearing wheel. My question is how do I get my

power stearing back????

It is still not returned and I'm about to replace the sensor contected to the HICAS pump on the RH side of the engine bay next to the oil filter. I had a shop do a diagnostic on it and they said that the stearing wheel switch was bad so I replaced it but

their is no differance. Still no power stearing and damn light is still on!!!

HELP..............SOS....

Eric

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16730-hicas-problem/
Share on other sites

The most common cause of P/S loss and HICAS light on is a minor loss of P/S fluid. Topping up the fluid will usually cure it. (A 'search' through these forums would have found this)

But since you have gone overboard with the fix, are you sure there's no air trapped in the P/S system?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16730-hicas-problem/#findComment-344198
Share on other sites

Guest GGGodzilla

Ericherm1, could you email me and let me know how you go? I've had a similar problem with my car. The HICAS light comes on after a while while driving.

I've only had my car on the road for about a month (fresh import) and I'd like to sort it out.

[email protected]

Thanks Rob.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16730-hicas-problem/#findComment-345660
Share on other sites

The fluid level was the first thing I checked and double checked and the level and all is good.

How would I go about purging or bleeding my power stearing system, if their is an air bubble?

I'm only down to 3 more options left as I see it,

Replace the cut off valve attached to the HICAS sylinoid,

Replace both left & right sylinoid,

Replace the HICAS computer in the rear deck.

???

Thanks,

Eric

Oh yeah, (off subject) my car ran low 11's that night too....hehe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16730-hicas-problem/#findComment-345870
Share on other sites

RAB....... thats becuase the computer has not received any input from the steering wheel for a little while. Its not a problem when that happens. Could also be that you have a aftermarket wheel on and not got the proper boss kit. Get the right boss kit and prob will be fixed.

Ericherm is it possible that you need to get the errors cleared from the ECU? I have the exact same problem and have been chasing my tail around forever trying to fix it. Please let me know how you go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16730-hicas-problem/#findComment-350765
Share on other sites

ok.... let me say this:

I already have the correct boss kit, and I know where all the parts are on the car, to include the power stearing resivor, and its filled to the proper capasity.

Like I said before I already replaced the rotation sensor in the stearing column, and the power stearing pump itself. But I still have the problem with no power stearing. Parking is such a pain with no power stearing!

Sorry to sound firm but i'm very frustrated right now,

oh and ..lol

Eric

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16730-hicas-problem/#findComment-353770
Share on other sites

Well I think I am going to just buy a HICAS Cancel Kit and lock

the rear end and then just unplug the HICAS Computer.

I tried unpluging the HICAS computer yesturday and I got my power stearing back. But when I pluged it back in it was gone

again.

Anyhow my mechanic did the diag test and found out that the HICAS computer is in safe mode, and we cannot figure out how to get it out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16730-hicas-problem/#findComment-354516
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
×
×
  • Create New...